If you can figure this out, you are a genius
#18
Three Wheelin'
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The brown wire at the plug will be ground. The other two will be the low & high temp. It's a dual temp switch.....1)hot and 2)hot as sh*t.
Jumper the brown and either one of the other to check wiring.
Does the radiator get hot on both end tanks & in the middle core? If not, then that means no water circulation.
Jumper the brown and either one of the other to check wiring.
Does the radiator get hot on both end tanks & in the middle core? If not, then that means no water circulation.
#19
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Ok, since I had the same problem, it is a combination of thermostat and air in system. You might have not put the thermostat ring in properly, they are a pain in the *** to put in. If the thermostat is not opening and not letting in a proper amount of water through the radiator then the switch is not getting turned on. This is because steam WILL NOT turn the switch on. Same with the air in the system, even if the thermostat is in correctly and you have too much air in the system, that will not activate the switch. You can check this by opening the air release bolt and checking how much water is goes out. It should be 2 STREAMS if it is not then it is either air in system, thermostat or bad water pump. Water pump failure is very rare in this car due to the simplicity of the pump. Try this:
Open up the air release bolt.
Open your heater valve, do it by hand.
Put a garden hose in your reservoir.
Turn the water on, make it a steady trickle.
Cover the reservoir hole with your hand while the garden hose is filling up your cooling system with water.
When you see water pouring out of your air release bolt, tighten the bolt(before you turn the water off)
Put the reservoir cap back on.
Test by running your car.
The proper method of filling the cooling system on this car is to first fill the engine by removing the cooling hose from the engine and pouring coolant in to the engine block, and then filling up the radiator by filling up through the hose you took off (a bit messy but very reliable) or through the reservoir.
Open up the air release bolt.
Open your heater valve, do it by hand.
Put a garden hose in your reservoir.
Turn the water on, make it a steady trickle.
Cover the reservoir hole with your hand while the garden hose is filling up your cooling system with water.
When you see water pouring out of your air release bolt, tighten the bolt(before you turn the water off)
Put the reservoir cap back on.
Test by running your car.
The proper method of filling the cooling system on this car is to first fill the engine by removing the cooling hose from the engine and pouring coolant in to the engine block, and then filling up the radiator by filling up through the hose you took off (a bit messy but very reliable) or through the reservoir.
#20
Three Wheelin'
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rumson, NJ
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I would also like to mention that I am noticing a strange clicking, knocking sound comming from the thermostat waterpump area. Should I be concerned, I dont like metal to metal sounds alot, especially in my car!!
-mE
-mE
#21
Race Car
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Sounds almost like my problem. Brand new water pump, thermostat, fan thermoswitch, and fan relay. Both fan fuses check out fine, both thermoswitches were tested [old and new], and both fans come on when the AC is activated but NO initial cooling. The temp gauge indicates the final white line before the red zone before activating both fans...there should be cooling before this. I need help too, mechanic cannot figure it out. Oh yeah...Danno just gave me a new cap for the expansion tank too so I know the system is holding pressure, and trust me it's been properly bled...a LOT.
#22
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Simple question
Despite installing a new relay, have you checked to see whether there is 12v getting TO the fan?
The A/C switch overrides the thermo switch. I would suspect a faulty feed somewhere. Time for a search with the old voltmeter!!
I had one individual who came to me with a direct line from the battery (through a fuse) to the fan because something was wrong with the 12v feed. I offered to troubleshoot, but he figured it wasn't worth it. The only protection he had in this setup from continual operation was the thermoswitch. Heck, with this setup, the fans would even run if the thermoswitch said the engine needed cooling even with the ignition off, just like the factory (albeit at full speed). As far as I know it's still running this way and that was about four years ago.
Good luck
Bob S.
Despite installing a new relay, have you checked to see whether there is 12v getting TO the fan?
The A/C switch overrides the thermo switch. I would suspect a faulty feed somewhere. Time for a search with the old voltmeter!!
I had one individual who came to me with a direct line from the battery (through a fuse) to the fan because something was wrong with the 12v feed. I offered to troubleshoot, but he figured it wasn't worth it. The only protection he had in this setup from continual operation was the thermoswitch. Heck, with this setup, the fans would even run if the thermoswitch said the engine needed cooling even with the ignition off, just like the factory (albeit at full speed). As far as I know it's still running this way and that was about four years ago.
Good luck
Bob S.
#24
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Look at this thread. People with low speed fan problems (fans come on at a high temp) should be looking at the fan resistors and the fan relay.
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=18&t=001111" target="_blank">fans</a>
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=18&t=001111" target="_blank">fans</a>