Urgent: HOUSTON - We have alternator problems with IceShark Kit
12-30-2002, 04:46 PM
#16
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Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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Just got back from hauling crap to the dump and buying coolant, I'll flip the rubber things over now before goin for a test drive (startin to get dark!!!!)
Also, my problem isn't so much the slack, as the fact that the back of the wiring harness butts up against the metal frame of the headlight brackets, making it a real PIA to do anything with the bulb or the wiring harness, etc..., did you not have this problem? The new wiring harness plug-in is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than the stock one, making a REAL bitch of clearance issue for me.
Also, my problem isn't so much the slack, as the fact that the back of the wiring harness butts up against the metal frame of the headlight brackets, making it a real PIA to do anything with the bulb or the wiring harness, etc..., did you not have this problem? The new wiring harness plug-in is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than the stock one, making a REAL bitch of clearance issue for me.
12-30-2002, 05:53 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
Yes, that wiring coming straight out of the beefy headlight plug is a clearance issue. That is why I note in the instructions to bend it SHARP and CLOSE to the plug into a 90 degree turn to clear the back bracket. Then after a few weeks of bulb heat, new memory will set that sharp turn in the insulation jackets.
The insulation jackets on that #10 AWG are the stiffness problem as the wire core itself, inside, is 105 strands of 30 gauge wire, which is pretty flexible and can take quite a bit of flex stress.
Now don't go overboard and put it in a vise or something, maybe a heat gun or hair drier can soften the insulation to get you a better curve if you are afraid of bending too hard. But you don't want the wires hitting the back bracket as they are big enough to overwhelm the spring holding the bulb in place and shove it out of alignment in the lens.
The insulation jackets on that #10 AWG are the stiffness problem as the wire core itself, inside, is 105 strands of 30 gauge wire, which is pretty flexible and can take quite a bit of flex stress.
Now don't go overboard and put it in a vise or something, maybe a heat gun or hair drier can soften the insulation to get you a better curve if you are afraid of bending too hard. But you don't want the wires hitting the back bracket as they are big enough to overwhelm the spring holding the bulb in place and shove it out of alignment in the lens.
