Mark944na86

I'm having trouble getting this off. What are the options? Does it need an impact wrench to loosen it normally?

Mark944na86

OK, forget about the lower mounting bolt -- got that off with a bigger bar -- but what about the upper?

There's some plastic moulding obscuring access to it so that an open wrench will fit on, but not a socket.

How are you supposed to torque it if you can't get a socket on it?

That's assuming I can get it off without a socket in the first place.

What is the plastic moulding anyway? Is it something easy to remove from inside the body?

This is on an S2, BTW (although I suspect that doesn't make it any different in this area.)

FRporscheman

I don't know what plastic molding you're talking about, but to torque it you can use a crowfoot attachment for your torque wrench.



Don't forget to recalculate the proper torque wrench setting, taking into account the added length (about .5"?) of the crowfoot.
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

Makis

There is a bolt and nut that holds the top of the shock. The head of the bold is on the insight of the wheel arch which you can use to torque the bolt if you want.

Mark944na86

OK, that's very useful to know... I was looking at loosening the nut - maybe loosening from the bolt side will work? I'll go have a look...

Mark944na86

Thank you, Makis, you solved my problems... it could have taken me a _long_ time to find that bolt head in the wheel well (kinda covered in caked mud and everything...)

Mark944na86

Also potentially useful to know (I've never seen these before)... fortunately, i won't be needing one today!

Mark944na86

All done... but not exactly the cleanest job! I think I've just spent as much time washing all the road grime off as it took to swap the shocks...

plyhammer

To follow up on this one. When I have had probles pulling the two bolts I have found it easier to take a jack and jack up the rotor until I find the sweet spot where there isn't any force on the top or the bottoms of the bolts then they will just pull out. Just some info.

North Coast Cab

Good advice. Pulling the lower bolt under load can damage the trailing arm threads.

Mark944na86

Agreed - I used a cheap "screw" type jack (the sort that usually comes standard with a car factory tyre change tool kit) under the trailing arm, just back of the rotor. The fine adjustability on these is great for this job -- just a quarter turn or so here and there to get the shock holes lined up so you can thread the bolts in and tighten with just your fingers. Nice!

WizPorsche944

There is great stuff I use called PB Blaster I always spray bolts down with it before taking them off. Get a can at any Advance, Pep boys, or Napa. Soak the bolt and try it again.

pjburges

That plastic trim thing is your gas tank. You can torque the the bolt by jamming a box end wrench to the inside, and using a regular torque wrench and socket on the outside. Should me 17mm. As mentioned dont pull the lower bolt without getting the load out, as it could damage it. Also get the lower bolt torqued correctly, the upper isnt quite as important.