Yummybud924

I'm in the process of replacing my tbelt and the ignition wire going to teh solenoid, the bolt won't come off and I tried using force and the stoud ont eh solenoid started coming looseso I don't knwo if it is already busted but i want to leave it alone and hopefully my starter still works.

i'm not removing the crankshaft bolt. I'm pretty sure last time I got the timing belt to slide on without removing the gears.

anyways I'm just worried about the crankshaft moving when I install the belt.

would putting it in high gear stop this?

if I try to remove my starter I'll bust the solenoid for sure and then I'll have to wait to get a new one......

Mark944na86

Pics? We were told this was going to be a multimedia event...

As you know, as long as the crank doesn't move without the cams, you'll be fine. Maybe find TDC with someone holding down the clutch, and then releasing the clutch on your signal to lock it?

Yummybud924

huh? you're confusing me lol.

pics are going to be posted after I get it done and running..... tomorrow.


cam and crank are already at tdc and I'm putting it in gear

I'm scared teh crankshaft may move a tiny bit when I put the new belt on, is that likely?


I can't get my damn starter out because the stud (electrical connetion) on the solenoid is about to snap off if I try to undo the nut. It starte to move but hasn't broken off yet so it may still be funcitonal i"m hoping.

Mark944na86

Well, you can see if it's moved after you put it in gear by checking the flywheel marks. The reason i was thinking of using the clutch release method while it's already in gear is that there would be less chance of moving the crank even a bit by putting it into gear (but it needs another person to help.)

Yummybud924

still not sure what you mean.

anways yes I can check the flywheel mark. but my flywheel mark is covered in rust and I can 't reach in there to clean it so I can barely see the mark.

i'm pretty sure if I put it in gear the force of pulling the belt onto the camshaft won't cause teh crankshaft to move.

Mark944na86

So how are you determining TDC w/o the flywheel mark? The "straw in piston 1" method?

I just assumed you were looking at the flywheel marks already...

Yummybud924

I'm using the camshaft mark. you're suppose to use the crankshaft mark however because it is more accurate.

I checked the crank mark also with a light and I can barely see it but I think it looks like it matches up too.

this **** is pissing me off. I can't get teh start out so now i'm not sure if the new timing belt can be slid on wihtout removing the balance shaft gear. I don't want to twist my new timing belt.

FRporscheman

I never use a flywheel lock when doing just belts. It's OK if the crank moves a few degrees - as long as you line it up again when putting the belts on. The crank can move all it wants, as long as it doesn't hit any valves.

Yummybud924

I know but i don't want it to move at all because I can barely see my flwheel tdc mark (rust) so I don't want to risk having it go out of allignment.

if I put the car in gear is it still likely the crank can move a few degrees while removing and putting on the belts?

like when I pull the tbelt ffrom the crank to over teh camshaft gear I'm scared that might cause teh crank to move.

also can you install the belt withotu damaging it if the balance shaft gear is still installed?

I have always installed the flywheel lock but I don't want to break my solenoid right now.


thanks.

Mark944na86

The camshaft mark rotates twice for every time time the engine goes through a full cycle, so you only have a 50% chance at being at TDC by using this alone.

If you can't see the flywheel marks, you'll have to verify TDC using the "straw in cylinder 1" method.

EDIT: Actually, I have this back-asswards. From Clark's garage:
So it looks like if the cam sprocket says TDC, you're there (assuming your timing is accurate to begin with).

Luis de Prat

Hang in there, Yummybud! Mark in Oz and myself are cheering for you before we have at it on our own!

I take it you're having trouble getting the wires off the solenoid part on the starter? I thought you could just pull the starter as a whole with the 2 bolts that hold it on without removing the solenoid?

Happy new year, guys! Arash too!

Mark944na86

Back atcha, Luis!

theedge

I dont know how youd bust the starter solenoid by taking the starter off....

Always go off the crankshaft TDC mark. The camshaft mark can be slightly off, so its safer to go off crank TDC.

Landseer

Mine was rusted, too.

I had to spray a little brakeclean in there, and use a wire bottlebrush to get it clean. The cam marks got me close, but it took a lot of manipulation of the crank to find the actual TDC mark.

If you've already got the old belt off, and didn't confirm the crank TDC mark, its kind of a moot point, isn't it? You have no choice but to string-up the belt without the flywheel lock. You should be OK if the camshaft doesn't spring-turn on you, just be careful with the camshaft not to trigger it to jump.

Then, after you string it, take the time to locate the TDC mark and ensure your timing is exactly right, otherwise you could loose a lot of power.

The crank rotates a long way (twice) per camshaft rotation. The cam gear is pretty small. That means that there is a lot of crank motion that results in very little cam gear periphery motion --- meaning its easy as hell to get timing off. For valve crash purposes, you should be ok, for timing you will eventually need to be rock-solid in confirming the TDC crank mark vs. cam marks, in my opinion.

Yummybud924

you have to take the remove the wires attached to the solenoid before taking the starter out. and the small ignition wire is on super tight and when I tried to remove teh small 8mm nut on it the stud connection is starting to come loose and break off.

anyways I did check tdc on the flywheel also. I can barely see the OT mark and the ------ that is suppose to match up with the pointer. I'm just worried it will move without the flywheel lock in place.