HELP !!! ...IMPOSSIBLY TIGHT crank pulley bolt
#1
HELP !!! ...IMPOSSIBLY TIGHT crank pulley bolt
I've got a 1/2" flex bar and using a section of my jack handle for leverage and still no dice. I'm about to flip the car off the freakin' jack stands !!
Anybody else dealt with this problem? Any ideas? PLEASE... Will heating the bolt work?
Anybody else dealt with this problem? Any ideas? PLEASE... Will heating the bolt work?
#2
I used a 3' pipe slipped over my craftsman 1/2" drive socket wrench. I be an impact wrench would work too, if you could get it in there. Removing the cooling fans gives you more space to work with.
#4
tabor
already got the rad/fans off BTW and i've soaked it in penetrant. Do you think part of the problem might be with the flex bar? I used it before with success on my n/a. I really havent tried putting the pipe over the ratchet handle since its so much shorter -but maybe thats the key, since it wont 'give' like the bar has been doing.
Damn, that things tight.
I'll give it a shot with the ratchet handle/pipe.
thanks
already got the rad/fans off BTW and i've soaked it in penetrant. Do you think part of the problem might be with the flex bar? I used it before with success on my n/a. I really havent tried putting the pipe over the ratchet handle since its so much shorter -but maybe thats the key, since it wont 'give' like the bar has been doing.
Damn, that things tight.
I'll give it a shot with the ratchet handle/pipe.
thanks
#5
First time I had to break the crank pulley bolt, I slipped my jack handle over my 1/2" drive breaker bar. It was still a SOB. Keep at it. You might try some PB Blaster, best penetrating oil I have found.
Best,
Best,
#7
OK, got a longer 5/16" socket from a neighbor since my 24mm was too short to give me a good 90 degree angle on the bolt (and my extension was too long). This time i did use the 1/2" ratchet handle and both pieces of my jack handle and i finally GOT IT !!
Cruise-
youre right on -threadlock all over the threads!! Jeez...is that stuff really necessary for this bolt or is that a failsafe for not having a torque wrench!?
Riff-
guess thats what Johnk944 was talking about -PB Blaster. I will be getting some next time out. It sounds like good stuff.
BTW -when i bought my 1/2" 'breaker bar' there was some misunderstanding: I asked for a breaker bar but suppose i got a flex handle and didnt know the difference. And let me tell you, it was flexing!! At one point i was getting scared about just what it would do if it broke -but it never did.
Thanks for all the help!
Now, back to engine removal...
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Cruise-
youre right on -threadlock all over the threads!! Jeez...is that stuff really necessary for this bolt or is that a failsafe for not having a torque wrench!?
Riff-
guess thats what Johnk944 was talking about -PB Blaster. I will be getting some next time out. It sounds like good stuff.
BTW -when i bought my 1/2" 'breaker bar' there was some misunderstanding: I asked for a breaker bar but suppose i got a flex handle and didnt know the difference. And let me tell you, it was flexing!! At one point i was getting scared about just what it would do if it broke -but it never did.
Thanks for all the help!
Now, back to engine removal...
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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#11
A johnson bar, where the drive can slide on the shaft, combined with a nice bit o' pipe and if necessary a few shots with a hammer to the pipe to impact it will do the trick every time.
Buy Craftsman and they replace it if it breaks.
"Never use force, just a bigger hammer."
Buy Craftsman and they replace it if it breaks.
"Never use force, just a bigger hammer."
#12
Easiest way to break free a crank bolt if you can't fit a gun in there.
Use a good breaker bar with the right length. Have someone crank the engine and note the direction of rotation. Carefully wedge the breaker bar to the floor or frame of car, or whatever is solid so that when the engine is cranked the bolt will turn LOOSE not tight. Don't position it so that it will break the radiator or something else. Have someone crank the car one second. Loose.
Personally, I have never done this on a Porsche, though.
,Bill
Use a good breaker bar with the right length. Have someone crank the engine and note the direction of rotation. Carefully wedge the breaker bar to the floor or frame of car, or whatever is solid so that when the engine is cranked the bolt will turn LOOSE not tight. Don't position it so that it will break the radiator or something else. Have someone crank the car one second. Loose.
Personally, I have never done this on a Porsche, though.
,Bill
#13
When I had to remove the crank pulley bolt I used a 1/2" drive craftsman breaker bar with my 2 ton jac handle over the breaker bar as the "persuader". Shattered the breaker bar in three places. Once I had my new breaker bar (love the lifetime warranty), I stole my wifes torch which she uses for cooking and heated up the bolt....don't know exactly if it was a defective wrench or the heating of the bolt, but it finally broke loose.