Repairing my turbo water pump
12-21-2008, 09:21 AM
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Repairing my turbo water pump
My water pump to the turbo stopped working so I decided to give a shot repairing it before excluding any christmas presents (new pump appr 200 Euros).
Measuring the resistance between the connector terminals it turned out it was infinit = broken circuit. THe resistance value should be less than 30 Ohm.
1. Remove four screws from turbine housing. Remove housing.
2. Pull of the turbine. Use thin blade tooling and pull off evenly. The turbine is press fitted onto the axle.
3. Remove the two gaskets.
4. Remove two screws holding the lower part of the turbine housing.
5. Slid of the rubber washer.
Now you will have the DC motor as a separate part.
Using brute force together with flat screw driver I bended the steel cover open. As you notice, there are three catches which could be "loosened" which I failed to realise ...
Now find appropiate measuring points. Do note that the cupper wire is isolated with transparent coating so it´s easy to get tricked if not choosing the correct measuring points.
Open, conductive points are connector terminals, solder joints where the wires connect to the DC motor housing and junction point where the winded cupper wire connects with the flat, woven cupper cable which connects to the brushes.
I discovered that the junction between the woven, flat cable and the cupper wire were bad (due to high/low resistance when tampered with) so I decided to solder them both although only one was bad.
Clean thoroughly using contact spray for electronics and apply sufficient of heat using soldering pen as you dont want any bad solderings, ie avoid cold solder joints.
Grease the axle and reassemble motor housing onto body and apply 12 Volts to check function. To me this solved the problem. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Hint: Use duck tape to keep the steel DC motor housing onto body.
Measuring the resistance between the connector terminals it turned out it was infinit = broken circuit. THe resistance value should be less than 30 Ohm.
1. Remove four screws from turbine housing. Remove housing.
2. Pull of the turbine. Use thin blade tooling and pull off evenly. The turbine is press fitted onto the axle.
3. Remove the two gaskets.
4. Remove two screws holding the lower part of the turbine housing.
5. Slid of the rubber washer.
Now you will have the DC motor as a separate part.
Using brute force together with flat screw driver I bended the steel cover open. As you notice, there are three catches which could be "loosened" which I failed to realise ...
Now find appropiate measuring points. Do note that the cupper wire is isolated with transparent coating so it´s easy to get tricked if not choosing the correct measuring points.
Open, conductive points are connector terminals, solder joints where the wires connect to the DC motor housing and junction point where the winded cupper wire connects with the flat, woven cupper cable which connects to the brushes.
I discovered that the junction between the woven, flat cable and the cupper wire were bad (due to high/low resistance when tampered with) so I decided to solder them both although only one was bad.
Clean thoroughly using contact spray for electronics and apply sufficient of heat using soldering pen as you dont want any bad solderings, ie avoid cold solder joints.
Grease the axle and reassemble motor housing onto body and apply 12 Volts to check function. To me this solved the problem. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Hint: Use duck tape to keep the steel DC motor housing onto body.
Last edited by Nahpets; 12-21-2008 at 12:31 PM.
