Window switches in center console?
06-06-2002, 10:23 AM
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
HEY HEY! The blank switchplates DO fit in the window switch holes. The ones from the center console are curved, so I'll have to go with the ones that cover the driving light (I think) hole beside the foglight rocker switch. They snap in beautifully!
Now I just have to figure out what to do with the fader control hole, as the mounting stuff is different from beneath. I'm thinking about gutting the fader and making it a carrier for the window swith, or possibly amputating the clip structure from the back of the window switch bezel on the door and grafting it to the back of the console... If these switches lasted longer, I'd just glue it in.
BTW, there is PLENTY of room under that console for the window switches. They are the same as the other switches except for labelling.
Will let you guys know what becomes of the fader hole and wiring issues...
Now I just have to figure out what to do with the fader control hole, as the mounting stuff is different from beneath. I'm thinking about gutting the fader and making it a carrier for the window swith, or possibly amputating the clip structure from the back of the window switch bezel on the door and grafting it to the back of the console... If these switches lasted longer, I'd just glue it in.
BTW, there is PLENTY of room under that console for the window switches. They are the same as the other switches except for labelling.
Will let you guys know what becomes of the fader hole and wiring issues...
06-06-2002, 12:04 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
I'm late joining this thread but I've also had the same idea about moving the switches to the center console. I've always preferred switches in the center console rather than anywhere on the door.
I'm very interested to know what you end up doing with the fader control hole. My thoughts were to leave the passenger door switch as is, put the driver door switches next to each other where the rear wiper and mirror switch are, move the displaced switches to the right and just get the blank for the fader hole. Makes it easier to put down both windows in one move as opposed to spanning the console with your hand. I'm of the opinion that the ergonomics for my passenger aren't that important so they can live with the door mounted switch.
Robby- I'd check the microswitches on your sunroof. Sounds like it's not opening as wide as it should. I've got the electric roof and it does rise at least 4" at it's max. Or perhaps I should look at my microswitches for letting the roof rise too far!
I do agree it's a big production for a simple tilt function. To have a power sunroof like a 911, 928 or any mercedes would result in a ridiculously small sunroof due to the size of the actual roof. 928 sunroofs are a prime example.
Alternatively they'd have to go with a design like Japanese cars sometimes have that slide up and out. I don't think those designs arrived on the scene until 1990-ish, however.
Given the amount of work that likely went into redesigning the interior and developing the turbo version, I'd guess the sunroof was pretty low on the priorty list. Dashboard, HVAC and the other misc things that make up the interior are non-trivial efforts.
I've wasn't aware there was much debate on what the body panels are made of. The hood is definitely metal as it is from the factory on most cars since it's designed to help with impact force dispersion. They're usually designed to deform in a specific manner. If you ever take the interior panel off the sunroof, you'll see that it is fiberglass or some plastic. If you ever drop it... you'll REALLY know.
I'm very interested to know what you end up doing with the fader control hole. My thoughts were to leave the passenger door switch as is, put the driver door switches next to each other where the rear wiper and mirror switch are, move the displaced switches to the right and just get the blank for the fader hole. Makes it easier to put down both windows in one move as opposed to spanning the console with your hand. I'm of the opinion that the ergonomics for my passenger aren't that important so they can live with the door mounted switch.
Robby- I'd check the microswitches on your sunroof. Sounds like it's not opening as wide as it should. I've got the electric roof and it does rise at least 4" at it's max. Or perhaps I should look at my microswitches for letting the roof rise too far!
I do agree it's a big production for a simple tilt function. To have a power sunroof like a 911, 928 or any mercedes would result in a ridiculously small sunroof due to the size of the actual roof. 928 sunroofs are a prime example.
Alternatively they'd have to go with a design like Japanese cars sometimes have that slide up and out. I don't think those designs arrived on the scene until 1990-ish, however.
Given the amount of work that likely went into redesigning the interior and developing the turbo version, I'd guess the sunroof was pretty low on the priorty list. Dashboard, HVAC and the other misc things that make up the interior are non-trivial efforts.
I've wasn't aware there was much debate on what the body panels are made of. The hood is definitely metal as it is from the factory on most cars since it's designed to help with impact force dispersion. They're usually designed to deform in a specific manner. If you ever take the interior panel off the sunroof, you'll see that it is fiberglass or some plastic. If you ever drop it... you'll REALLY know.
06-06-2002, 12:52 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jul 2001
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IVE THOUGHT THE SAME THING,THOSE SWITCHES ARE NOT ERGONOMIC!I thought center console is the logical spot for them!Let us know how this works out,can you take photos/how to /with part numbers etc.and keep us updated! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
06-06-2002, 11:37 PM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Right on guys - I'm working right now on gutting my fader control and making a switch carriage out of it...
My window switches will be the last two spots to the right (blank and fader spots). Easily reached from driver's seat, will keep passenger from goofing with the wrong buttons.
As for the blank covers, Porsche has 3 types! I'm thinking of ordering NEW ones from the Euro 951 (must've had manual windows and an option?) - but they are around $8 A PIECE!!! Ouch.
My window switches will be the last two spots to the right (blank and fader spots). Easily reached from driver's seat, will keep passenger from goofing with the wrong buttons.
As for the blank covers, Porsche has 3 types! I'm thinking of ordering NEW ones from the Euro 951 (must've had manual windows and an option?) - but they are around $8 A PIECE!!! Ouch.
06-27-2002, 09:23 AM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok - so far I've:
cut the mounting "box" from the back of an extra driver's door window switch bezel (took the backing stuff of one of the two switch locations)
and epoxied it into the back of the fader hole (since the mounting stuff for the fader is different) - the rest of the switches and blank spaces on the console ALREADY have the correct mounting boxes below!! Later model owners with no fader are home free in this respect as the switches will just pop in. ALL THE SWITCHES ON THE CONSOLE ARE THE SAME DIMENSION AS THE WINDOW SWITCHES! I used a spare switch covered with vaseline (as a resist) to position/epoxy the mounting box (which I broke removing it from the door bezel..)
Then I increased the SIZE OF THE FADER CONTROL OPENING as it is about 2mm SMALEER than the other switch holes in both directions! I used a jewelers file and the old door switch plate as a template.
Now I have 2 slots that window switches will pop in on my console.
Next step: scare up an extra wiring harness for the drivers door! (so this will be a plug and play operation - no cutting wires!)
cut the mounting "box" from the back of an extra driver's door window switch bezel (took the backing stuff of one of the two switch locations)
and epoxied it into the back of the fader hole (since the mounting stuff for the fader is different) - the rest of the switches and blank spaces on the console ALREADY have the correct mounting boxes below!! Later model owners with no fader are home free in this respect as the switches will just pop in. ALL THE SWITCHES ON THE CONSOLE ARE THE SAME DIMENSION AS THE WINDOW SWITCHES! I used a spare switch covered with vaseline (as a resist) to position/epoxy the mounting box (which I broke removing it from the door bezel..)
Then I increased the SIZE OF THE FADER CONTROL OPENING as it is about 2mm SMALEER than the other switch holes in both directions! I used a jewelers file and the old door switch plate as a template.
Now I have 2 slots that window switches will pop in on my console.
Next step: scare up an extra wiring harness for the drivers door! (so this will be a plug and play operation - no cutting wires!)
