'87 944 oil pressure/leak problem
12-03-2008, 01:13 AM
#31
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Link to the tool I bought (w/ picture) http://www.paragon-products.com/Oil_...2-fslash-1.htm This tool is listed as the tool to use for 87+ models. I think the tool VaSteve is referring to is this one, http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/p218.htm Listed for models 83-86.
I see a number but like I said it is partly obscured but what I can see reads 94410111..?
I see a number but like I said it is partly obscured but what I can see reads 94410111..?
Last edited by jtessaro; 12-03-2008 at 04:02 PM.
12-03-2008, 01:36 AM
#32
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I loosened the housing and will probably end up taking it off and redoing the seals but have not for the moment. The old valve screws right in easy as could be but the tool only goes in about 1 thread's worth.
Here is a picture of my tool in comparison with the old valve:
Here is a picture of my tool in comparison with the old valve:
Last edited by jtessaro; 12-03-2008 at 04:03 PM.
12-07-2008, 03:11 AM
#33
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Hey guys I want to thank everyone who spoke up and gave me advice or other information.
I think the problem is fixed and at low cost as well. I was trying to avoid having to completely remove the housing and reseal everything so I ended up loosening the housing bolts and hand tightening in the alignment tool, and sure enough it was rather hard to tighten but it moved the housing a good 2 or 3 mm and then I reinstalled the old OPRV with new O-rings (I did this mostly because I had not yet received the new part and I figured I might end up saving a lot of money if it worked).
After a fluid flush and coolant bleed I did some testing and easy driving and everything seems to be running great the oil pressure is behaving more like it should and I have driven it about 80 miles with no problems.
Thanks again.
I think the problem is fixed and at low cost as well. I was trying to avoid having to completely remove the housing and reseal everything so I ended up loosening the housing bolts and hand tightening in the alignment tool, and sure enough it was rather hard to tighten but it moved the housing a good 2 or 3 mm and then I reinstalled the old OPRV with new O-rings (I did this mostly because I had not yet received the new part and I figured I might end up saving a lot of money if it worked).
After a fluid flush and coolant bleed I did some testing and easy driving and everything seems to be running great the oil pressure is behaving more like it should and I have driven it about 80 miles with no problems.
Thanks again.
12-07-2008, 10:12 AM
#34
Burning Brakes
Hmmm. This thread has me thinking. My oil pressure gauge generally always reads about a "6" out of "5". When the engine is warm it does drop to about 3 when at idle. Does this suggest a stuck OPRV? I ask because I have a rather bad oil leak. I did reseal the front of engine last spring but have lived with it until now. I just removed the timing belt covers to have a look but I'm wondering if the high oil pressure is forcing oil out thru otherwise good seals. Is the normal oil pressure reading right around 5, rather than 5 plus? I will likely pull the OPRV anyway to have a look when I get a chance. Do I need to drain oil first?
12-08-2008, 12:27 AM
#35
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Ditto Josh's post above. Many thanks to Kuhl Steve, VaSteve & others who helped Josh slog thru this oprv problem--he and I spent several 1AM nights trying to get this porsche running and we couldn't have done it without the patient input, advice and perseverence of you guys--we've never had a Porsche in the family before (I'm a Ford big-block guy and the 428SCJ has an air-cooled oil cooler that was NEVER a problem.)
For Chrisc & crooster, I know enuf to be dangerous now, but the way the engine pressure ran at +5 bars and blew out the oil filter seal (I've never seen that, and during this ordeal I realized that I've been working on cars for 33yrs--yikes), I'd suggest checking the oprv & oilcooler housing alignment anytime the pressure stays high. Josh's 944 now seems to now run at 4.25 BAR during warmup and above-idle RPM, but settles in at 3 BAR at idle once Oper temp is reached. The best I can tell, the inner plunger of the opvr binds when the oilcooler housing is misaligned, inhibiting the plunger's normal movement. After installing new o-rings, cleaning it and verifying uninhibitied plunger action, we installed his old opvr (yeah, I know, you'll see us back if that idea turns out to be a bust. . .but new opvr still on order. . .).
Anyway, thanks again.
Josh's Dad--Tom
For Chrisc & crooster, I know enuf to be dangerous now, but the way the engine pressure ran at +5 bars and blew out the oil filter seal (I've never seen that, and during this ordeal I realized that I've been working on cars for 33yrs--yikes), I'd suggest checking the oprv & oilcooler housing alignment anytime the pressure stays high. Josh's 944 now seems to now run at 4.25 BAR during warmup and above-idle RPM, but settles in at 3 BAR at idle once Oper temp is reached. The best I can tell, the inner plunger of the opvr binds when the oilcooler housing is misaligned, inhibiting the plunger's normal movement. After installing new o-rings, cleaning it and verifying uninhibitied plunger action, we installed his old opvr (yeah, I know, you'll see us back if that idea turns out to be a bust. . .but new opvr still on order. . .).
Anyway, thanks again.
Josh's Dad--Tom
