Dave in Chicago

These cars are pretty straight forward for oil change...

You will need: 7 quarts oil of choice, one or more pairs of latex gloves, safety glasses, 1 filter, 1 filter wrench (cap type - strap type is useless on this filter), 1 drain plug seal (you can turn it over and reuse it, but they are really cheap), a torque wrench with 15mm socket (every bolt on this car has a proper torque rating), a good drain pan, lots of paper towels or rags, and either a) a pair of ramps to get the front of the car up a bit, or b) a jack and pair of stands.

Check your book, but I think my drain plug spec is 38 foot pounds. 6-7 quarts of oil comes out in a big hurry, so have a pan deep enough to catch it. When it's warm it'll melt your latex gloves right off (ask me how I know). Do grab that plug and look it over. Little metal sludge is okay. Little metal shavings forming a little X-mas tree on the magnet are your first warning to think about rod bearings. After inspection, clean it thoroughly.

Anyway, I ramp the car, drain the pan, remove the filter (either stuff the paper towels up in their or form a little funnel with aluminum foil to catch it), replace filter, replace plug/gasket, fill with 6 quarts. Run 2 minutes, wait 30 seconds, check oil level. Now go back in and wipe the parts around the filter until they are bone dry. You want to get oil off of the suspension bushings and hoses in particular. You also want clear visibility to any leaking around the filter. I hand tighten the filter and use a cap-wrench to remove. You will be amazed how much time it will take to get the filter out the first time, all the while it's dumping oil all over. Don't panic, you'll get to where you can pull that baby out in 3 seconds. Check for leaks a couple of times within the next couple of days and check level one more time.

Other tips... Lay old cardboard boxes out flat under the car to slide around on and catch any stray drops... Wear safety glasses of some sort... Latex gloves as mentioned above... Remove the lid to your garbage can before you start so you don't have to grab the lid with your oil-soaked hands... Last, but not least, teach the kids to do it (Porsche's are family fun, right?).

As always, keep recordes of products, date, and mileage for all your work (easy to forget); and keep the shiny side up,

Dave in Chicago

Oops, one more thing... My local state EPA has collection centers for oil, brake fluid, flourescent bulbs, etc. They let you drop it off free (they actually will unload the car for you) and it gets recycled safely. I collect all the old oil in either milk jugs or those 5-quart Mobil 1 jugs I buy at Wal-Mart. The ATE Blue goes in the container it came in. I used to get local quick-lube places to take it, but they've become more resistant. I just store it up for a couple of months and make a run to the drop site. Had to contact the state EPA to find the site and hours.

Good Luck,

Operator

thanks for the replies... i figured dumping the oil in the garbage isnt the best idea, ill have to figure out where you're supposed to take it..

otherwise i guess ill give it a shot sometime soon, although i dont have a torque wrench and i probably dont even have a 15mm, i had to buy a 22mm for the o2 job. damned big expensive 10 dollar wrench!

oh yea and as for oil weight recommendations for the nyc area, 10w30 for summer and 20w50 for winter, yes?

matt- im in stamford, where are you? so far ive done like 3 autox events with the nymetro pca.. the cvr doesnt really do stuff around this part of ct.

User 462021

[quote]Originally posted by Operator:
<strong>
oh yea and as for oil weight recommendations for the nyc area, 10w30 for summer and 20w50 for winter, yes?

</strong><hr></blockquote>

You have it backwards buddy. You could even go with 10W40 for the winter.

triscadek

I mix Castrol 20/50 and 10/30 during the winter. Also use Lucas oil additive.

And put a piece of stick on mailing or VHS label with the date and mileage on ther end of the filter.

Operator

woops
yea i had it backwards
i run 10w40 right now.. duh

Matt

Simon,

I'm in Durham, pretty much the center of the state. I can see why you'd do NY/NNJ AX's, with the CVR ones taking place up north in Springfield (looks like the Smith & Wesson site will no longer be available, though). I run with Metro & NNJ occasionally at the tracks, good folks.

Lots of club members from downstate come up to Lime Rock for DE events, you ought to consider driving up to observe one if you haven't, or better yet, sign up for one (do it early, they fill up fast). They're incredibly friendly and fun, and your AX experience will pay off too.

Matt

Mike Buck

[quote]Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>

Incidentally I have to do another oil change soon...because last time I did it (month and a half ago? maybe 2 months) all I had was 20w50 and by the time I realized it the oil was drained...so I gotta change it out to 10w40 for the winter. What a waste of $8/quart oil though...</strong><hr></blockquote>

You must use Redline like I do! It is worth every cent I pay for it. Course, I don't change it every 2 months, or 3, or 4, or maybe even 5 . . cause that would be expensive

adrial

[quote]Originally posted by Mike Buck:
<strong>

You must use Redline like I do! It is worth every cent I pay for it. Course, I don't change it every 2 months, or 3, or 4, or maybe even 5 . . cause that would be expensive
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Amsoil actually.
Every 3k miles, 4k at most for my car....expensive, yes...worth it...I think so.