Tips on painting tail lights...
06-11-2003, 06:24 PM
#31
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Maybe, but it's a "transparent" paint and anyway, the painted portions closely match the other lenses with just a very light spray. The appearance would probably be adversely affected with heavy coats but it's worth a try.
06-11-2003, 06:32 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Ken, it is not going to work that way in practice. I'm not well versed enough in physics to explain this properly but basically the light photons are going to hit the heavy coated plastic portion and be absorbed. Probably converted to heat energy.
To get your idea to work you would need to coat the inside of the lens with a silver reflective material that would bounce the photons up and out the top slit. Too much work for me!
To get your idea to work you would need to coat the inside of the lens with a silver reflective material that would bounce the photons up and out the top slit. Too much work for me!
06-11-2003, 06:48 PM
#33
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Haha Carl, we are great drivers aren't we!!!
Well, in some cases...I'm not to happy with the quality of some people attempting to parallel park...which led to the purchase of a small crow-bar/nail-puller to 'yank' the bumper out when they knock it in. Thank goodness for the bumper guards!!!
As for the bulbs, where exactly do I get the halogen reverse bulbs??? I may also want them for the other bulbs if they won't melt the plastic.
Well, in some cases...I'm not to happy with the quality of some people attempting to parallel park...which led to the purchase of a small crow-bar/nail-puller to 'yank' the bumper out when they knock it in. Thank goodness for the bumper guards!!!
As for the bulbs, where exactly do I get the halogen reverse bulbs??? I may also want them for the other bulbs if they won't melt the plastic.
06-11-2003, 07:01 PM
#34
Nordschleife Master
Robert, you can get the bulbs from me. I am going to post my test conclusions on 30, 35 and 50 watt halogen bulbs and then do a big buy for Rennlisters.
Basically it boils down to 35 watt halogens in areas that don't get lit up too long. Like 5 or 6 minutes at a time. For constant lighting like the running lights, forget it, you will melt parts.
Basically it boils down to 35 watt halogens in areas that don't get lit up too long. Like 5 or 6 minutes at a time. For constant lighting like the running lights, forget it, you will melt parts.
06-11-2003, 07:16 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>Ken, it is not going to work that way in practice. I'm not well versed enough in physics to explain this properly but basically the light photons are going to hit the heavy coated plastic portion and be absorbed. Probably converted to heat energy?
To get your idea to work you would need to coat the inside of the lens with a silver reflective material that would bounce the photons up and out the top slit. Too much work for me!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">You're right, I didn't mean that the actual light would get forced out the white section. I just meant that the pinkness of the light should be reduced by additional coats of the paint because less light will be getting through the red part while the same amount will be getting through the white part. So comparitively the white section should be "brighter" even though no more light is going through.
I can understand the silver too. My initial thought was that if there's an easy way to detach the lenses from the housing you could add some sort of metal deflector that would prevent any light from hitting the red part. This would prevent any red/pink light getting out. But I agree, that's way to difficult to be worth it.
<strong>Ken, it is not going to work that way in practice. I'm not well versed enough in physics to explain this properly but basically the light photons are going to hit the heavy coated plastic portion and be absorbed. Probably converted to heat energy?
To get your idea to work you would need to coat the inside of the lens with a silver reflective material that would bounce the photons up and out the top slit. Too much work for me!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">You're right, I didn't mean that the actual light would get forced out the white section. I just meant that the pinkness of the light should be reduced by additional coats of the paint because less light will be getting through the red part while the same amount will be getting through the white part. So comparitively the white section should be "brighter" even though no more light is going through.
I can understand the silver too. My initial thought was that if there's an easy way to detach the lenses from the housing you could add some sort of metal deflector that would prevent any light from hitting the red part. This would prevent any red/pink light getting out. But I agree, that's way to difficult to be worth it.
06-11-2003, 07:39 PM
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Robert D, I got my halogen backup lights many years ago from Tweeks, Perf Products or the like. They're readily available. They include the halogen mounting which plugs into the OE socket. Some now offer the bulbs that plug in directly. The lights are noticeably brighter than stock but I don't really remember the wattage.
Iceshark, if that 50 watt bulb doesn't melt the lens, I'm in!
Iceshark, if that 50 watt bulb doesn't melt the lens, I'm in!
06-13-2003, 12:33 AM
#37
Burning Brakes
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Carl Nall:
<strong>Ringo, do you get mostly white light from your backup lights or is it predomitantly reddish?
I might consider the thin strip at the top of the lens like Ken's pic of Sami's car, if it would actually give effective backup lights.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Mostly white light. That thin strip at the top would not do much. I would either do it like Sami's, mine, or all red. IMO. I did it like Sami's first, but then I thought it would look better like I did it. I'm happy with the results.
<strong>Ringo, do you get mostly white light from your backup lights or is it predomitantly reddish?
I might consider the thin strip at the top of the lens like Ken's pic of Sami's car, if it would actually give effective backup lights.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Mostly white light. That thin strip at the top would not do much. I would either do it like Sami's, mine, or all red. IMO. I did it like Sami's first, but then I thought it would look better like I did it. I'm happy with the results.
12-07-2003, 03:13 PM
#39
Nordschleife Master
Mark, I'm not sure exactly how they construct the plastic to appear red but light up white or yellow, but it can be done if you are starting out with a fresh sheet of paper. For us with the old OEM lenses we are sunk. Light transparent red paint over them and they are going to light up red. Guess you could track down some of that special optical plastic, saw off the old lenses and glue on the new but sounds like a lot of work to me.
Carl, I got and tested 3 different halogen bulbs that had a standard 1156 bayonet base so you can plug them in with no problems or socket adapters. The 30 watt Asian bulbs turned out to be a POS and started depositing some gray material on the inside of the bulb within hours. It is either tungsten and the halogen cycle isn't working right or some contamination within the bulb. So forget them.
Then I tested some German 35 and 50 watt bulbs. First off you can't use these in a constant duty plastic lens. The 35 watt bulbs raise the lens temperature about 10*F higher than their 21 watt incandescent counter parts after 6 minutes. So you want to keep them confined to brake lights, reverse lights and maybe turnsignals.
The 50 watters begin heating up the lens like crazy. I stopped the test after a few minutes because I was over 212*F and was afraid I would ruin my lens. They would probably work fine in big truck brake lights that have a lot of volume or are made out of glass but I think for us 944 guys it is best to steer clear of them.
So you can get some 35 watt halogens from me if you want. I'll probably put in another order before the end of the year.
Carl, I got and tested 3 different halogen bulbs that had a standard 1156 bayonet base so you can plug them in with no problems or socket adapters. The 30 watt Asian bulbs turned out to be a POS and started depositing some gray material on the inside of the bulb within hours. It is either tungsten and the halogen cycle isn't working right or some contamination within the bulb. So forget them.
Then I tested some German 35 and 50 watt bulbs. First off you can't use these in a constant duty plastic lens. The 35 watt bulbs raise the lens temperature about 10*F higher than their 21 watt incandescent counter parts after 6 minutes. So you want to keep them confined to brake lights, reverse lights and maybe turnsignals.
The 50 watters begin heating up the lens like crazy. I stopped the test after a few minutes because I was over 212*F and was afraid I would ruin my lens. They would probably work fine in big truck brake lights that have a lot of volume or are made out of glass but I think for us 944 guys it is best to steer clear of them.
So you can get some 35 watt halogens from me if you want. I'll probably put in another order before the end of the year.
12-07-2003, 04:07 PM
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Originally posted by Lead Foot 944
I have also considered the blackout method..
The spray is made by a company called VHT.
I guess you spray it on and it makes your lights look smoked, but when you turn on your lights the original light color will shine through...
I read about and seen this product in J.C Whitney
Lead Foot 944
I have also considered the blackout method..
The spray is made by a company called VHT.
I guess you spray it on and it makes your lights look smoked, but when you turn on your lights the original light color will shine through...
I read about and seen this product in J.C Whitney
Lead Foot 944
12-07-2003, 04:14 PM
#41
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Originally posted by Carl Nall
BTW, I hear Michigan also has some nice lakes, good hunting/fishing and maybe some good college sports programs. If y'all could just get some good pro teams up there!
BTW, I hear Michigan also has some nice lakes, good hunting/fishing and maybe some good college sports programs. If y'all could just get some good pro teams up there!
12-07-2003, 07:56 PM
#45
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The linked tutorial is really overkill. This really is a very simple job. No removal of tailights or special preparation is required. Clean the lens with alcohol, mask off the lens and protect the rest of the car from overspray, spray with a LIGHT coat of Testor's transparent Candy Apple paint. Done.