How much Dynamat
11-12-2008, 08:47 PM
#16
No, not Mosquito!
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I can't thank you enough for your experience with dynamat (or anything similar) I actually have 150sq/ft total of the stuff ready to put it in my car when finished with paint. So you said the difference you noticed? Did you put double layers on the doors? How about in the hatch- did those wells require a load?
Thanks!
[/hijack]
11-12-2008, 09:00 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
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I've done sound insulation on a few cars. The most extensive was an FC RX7. We did the entire floor when re-carpeting the interior as part of a black interior conversion. The temp levels were improved, seeing as when it had no carpet, you could have sweaty legs on a 50 degree night with the windows down. But as far as noise goes, it's still loud inside. Didn't notice too much of a difference in Db's before and after installation.
The only reason I'd lay mat in a car, would be to reduce rattle (when used in junction with a powerful/loud sound system) or to help with heat coming off the engine and exhaust. Road noise reduction in all cars I've done was minimal. I suspect that's because most of the road noise and vibration you get comes from the suspension and chassis. You'd need hella insulation to make a big difference over stock (Note that I said stock, not bare interior).
The only reason I'd lay mat in a car, would be to reduce rattle (when used in junction with a powerful/loud sound system) or to help with heat coming off the engine and exhaust. Road noise reduction in all cars I've done was minimal. I suspect that's because most of the road noise and vibration you get comes from the suspension and chassis. You'd need hella insulation to make a big difference over stock (Note that I said stock, not bare interior).
11-12-2008, 09:19 PM
#18
Herr Unmöglich
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I think it would be pretty unhealthy of me to drop 20 pounds. 150 is not healthy for a 6' 31 year male. 
And my race car is still too heavy.
Andy, was it brown interior bits you were looking for?
And my race car is still too heavy.Andy, was it brown interior bits you were looking for?
11-12-2008, 10:49 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Ha yea i dont think either of us need too lose any weight!
I am toying with the idea of converting my interior to black/tan. The PO owner put in some aftermarket carpets which are now totally falling apart, someone hot glued a plastic dash cover on, my steering wheel needs to be replaced, my mats are totally gone, and the seat covers are falling apart! Time for a new interior! I was thinking black dash/panels and mats, and then tan carpet/seatcovers.
I am toying with the idea of converting my interior to black/tan. The PO owner put in some aftermarket carpets which are now totally falling apart, someone hot glued a plastic dash cover on, my steering wheel needs to be replaced, my mats are totally gone, and the seat covers are falling apart! Time for a new interior! I was thinking black dash/panels and mats, and then tan carpet/seatcovers.
11-12-2008, 10:53 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
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Hmm so it seems that Dynamat doesn't have very good sound deadening properties? This is the main thing im after, and to ditch all that stupid foam insulation.
11-12-2008, 11:02 PM
#21
Race Director
[hijack]
I can't thank you enough for your experience with dynamat (or anything similar) I actually have 150sq/ft total of the stuff ready to put it in my car when finished with paint. So you said the difference you noticed? Did you put double layers on the doors? How about in the hatch- did those wells require a load?
Thanks!
[/hijack]
I can't thank you enough for your experience with dynamat (or anything similar) I actually have 150sq/ft total of the stuff ready to put it in my car when finished with paint. So you said the difference you noticed? Did you put double layers on the doors? How about in the hatch- did those wells require a load?
Thanks!
[/hijack]
I see where some are skeptical about the benefits and/or end results of installing Dynamat, and I can sympathize with this concern. However, over the years I have done 8 personnel vehicles and several others for friends or customers. If you take a few moments to understand the basics of sound transmission (for our purposes...READ:noise) and sincerely think through what it is you are trying to accomplish, you can have a succesful installation that will yield the results you desire.
Sound is simple....vibrations....mechanical or otherwise. These vibrations are soundwaves. Unwanted sound is noise. So we want to stop undesirable vibrations. Anywhere there are 2 or more items in contact with one another you will have a great potential for noise (rattles), with harder materials being less forgiving as they have not the composition to dissipate/absorb wave, but to reflect it and in some cases amplify it. This brings us to a step that must be addressed prior to installing matting...seals. All the Dynamat in the world will only marginally help you if your seals are in disrepair. This step should be done first and typically you will notice an improved environment by doing just this. The seals not only keep out the elements, but create a "bushing" between your doors/hatch/hood and the body, and reducing wind and road transmission noise via openings in deteriorated seals, thus eliminating alot of unwanted noise immediately. However, moving on.........
The most popular use of sound deadening materials (SDM) is to create a surrounding environment that dissapates unwanted, repititve or revibrated soundwaves radiated from a car audio speaker. Most speaker cavities are devoid of any insulation or SDM's, thus producing unnecessary panel vibration, inverse sound pressures or excessive flex of the area as a whole. These are capable of producing significant and irritating "rattles" and usually some degree of distortion. The implementation of SDM in what is termed chambering** simulates a sealed environment and allows the reproduced sound to be projected as intended and in a clean and distortion free manner.
**chambering-the installation of SDM in a manner to seal off completely the rear aperture of a speakers housing. This allows the encapsulation and redirection of sound waves to the desired range.
The next most popular use of SDM's is in a complete auto "re-wrap". Typically most sport cars (e.g. Nissan 350z) do not even come with interior insulation anymore, ones that do are rarely ideal and the older cars are usually in disrepair (not to mention mold/mildew=smell..ugh). This leads to increased road noise, loss of interior harmonics and increased/decreasd cabin temperatures (based on season) to name a few. In efforts to combat these issues, a complete interior strip is necessary. All surfaces will need to evacuated of any existing insulation and or adhesives, then prepped and cleaned. Now, going back to what was discussed earlier in reference to unwanted "noise", with everything removed you will notice several small plastic snap-ins, bolts, clips, cables, etc....everyone one of these items are capable of producing unwanted noise. It is paramount that you tighten any exposed harware and buffer all clips, brackets etc...We use simple Black Mastic Roof/Flashing caulk on and around EVERYTHING. It is waterproof & weather resistant and provides a nice "bushing" effect...the vibrations are transferred to it, instead of your car (be sure to seal-off ALL firewall penetrations also).
Once all pieces have been touched up, you can install the SDM. Take your time, and cut nice even seams/corners and smooth out evenly. In areas adjacent to moving parts (fenderwells, firewall, tranny hump, rear axle) it is recommended to install 2 layers, with the top layer extending a minimum of 6" past the object in every direction (where possible). Usaully a two day job for an experienced installer or 2 weekends for a DIY'er (1 day=remove interior, 2 day=clean/prep/seal, install firewall & main floor, 3 day= cut trim from scraps & install, do overlays/doors & rear quarters, 4 day=re-install interior WITH NEW fasteners/washers/bushings).
Sorry....I didn't mean for this to be soooo long. I got a bit carried away.
if the bitch cant fit i dont want her.
11-13-2008, 12:44 AM
#24
No, not Mosquito!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I see where some are skeptical about the benefits and/or end results of installing Dynamat, and I can sympathize with this concern. However, over the years I have done 8 personnel vehicles and several others for friends or customers. If you take a few moments to understand the basics of sound transmission (for our purposes...READ:noise) and sincerely think through what it is you are trying to accomplish, you can have a succesful installation that will yield the results you desire.
Sound is simple....vibrations....mechanical or otherwise. These vibrations are soundwaves. Unwanted sound is noise. So we want to stop undesirable vibrations. Anywhere there are 2 or more items in contact with one another you will have a great potential for noise (rattles), with harder materials being less forgiving as they have not the composition to dissipate/absorb wave, but to reflect it and in some cases amplify it. This brings us to a step that must be addressed prior to installing matting...seals. All the Dynamat in the world will only marginally help you if your seals are in disrepair. This step should be done first and typically you will notice an improved environment by doing just this. The seals not only keep out the elements, but create a "bushing" between your doors/hatch/hood and the body, and reducing wind and road transmission noise via openings in deteriorated seals, thus eliminating alot of unwanted noise immediately. However, moving on.........
The most popular use of sound deadening materials (SDM) is to create a surrounding environment that dissapates unwanted, repititve or revibrated soundwaves radiated from a car audio speaker. Most speaker cavities are devoid of any insulation or SDM's, thus producing unnecessary panel vibration, inverse sound pressures or excessive flex of the area as a whole. These are capable of producing significant and irritating "rattles" and usually some degree of distortion. The implementation of SDM in what is termed chambering** simulates a sealed environment and allows the reproduced sound to be projected as intended and in a clean and distortion free manner.
**chambering-the installation of SDM in a manner to seal off completely the rear aperture of a speakers housing. This allows the encapsulation and redirection of sound waves to the desired range.
The next most popular use of SDM's is in a complete auto "re-wrap". Typically most sport cars (e.g. Nissan 350z) do not even come with interior insulation anymore, ones that do are rarely ideal and the older cars are usually in disrepair (not to mention mold/mildew=smell..ugh). This leads to increased road noise, loss of interior harmonics and increased/decreasd cabin temperatures (based on season) to name a few. In efforts to combat these issues, a complete interior strip is necessary. All surfaces will need to evacuated of any existing insulation and or adhesives, then prepped and cleaned. Now, going back to what was discussed earlier in reference to unwanted "noise", with everything removed you will notice several small plastic snap-ins, bolts, clips, cables, etc....everyone one of these items are capable of producing unwanted noise. It is paramount that you tighten any exposed harware and buffer all clips, brackets etc...We use simple Black Mastic Roof/Flashing caulk on and around EVERYTHING. It is waterproof & weather resistant and provides a nice "bushing" effect...the vibrations are transferred to it, instead of your car (be sure to seal-off ALL firewall penetrations also).
Once all pieces have been touched up, you can install the SDM. Take your time, and cut nice even seams/corners and smooth out evenly. In areas adjacent to moving parts (fenderwells, firewall, tranny hump, rear axle) it is recommended to install 2 layers, with the top layer extending a minimum of 6" past the object in every direction (where possible). Usaully a two day job for an experienced installer or 2 weekends for a DIY'er (1 day=remove interior, 2 day=clean/prep/seal, install firewall & main floor, 3 day= cut trim from scraps & install, do overlays/doors & rear quarters, 4 day=re-install interior WITH NEW fasteners/washers/bushings).
Sorry....I didn't mean for this to be soooo long. I got a bit carried away.
Sound is simple....vibrations....mechanical or otherwise. These vibrations are soundwaves. Unwanted sound is noise. So we want to stop undesirable vibrations. Anywhere there are 2 or more items in contact with one another you will have a great potential for noise (rattles), with harder materials being less forgiving as they have not the composition to dissipate/absorb wave, but to reflect it and in some cases amplify it. This brings us to a step that must be addressed prior to installing matting...seals. All the Dynamat in the world will only marginally help you if your seals are in disrepair. This step should be done first and typically you will notice an improved environment by doing just this. The seals not only keep out the elements, but create a "bushing" between your doors/hatch/hood and the body, and reducing wind and road transmission noise via openings in deteriorated seals, thus eliminating alot of unwanted noise immediately. However, moving on.........
The most popular use of sound deadening materials (SDM) is to create a surrounding environment that dissapates unwanted, repititve or revibrated soundwaves radiated from a car audio speaker. Most speaker cavities are devoid of any insulation or SDM's, thus producing unnecessary panel vibration, inverse sound pressures or excessive flex of the area as a whole. These are capable of producing significant and irritating "rattles" and usually some degree of distortion. The implementation of SDM in what is termed chambering** simulates a sealed environment and allows the reproduced sound to be projected as intended and in a clean and distortion free manner.
**chambering-the installation of SDM in a manner to seal off completely the rear aperture of a speakers housing. This allows the encapsulation and redirection of sound waves to the desired range.
The next most popular use of SDM's is in a complete auto "re-wrap". Typically most sport cars (e.g. Nissan 350z) do not even come with interior insulation anymore, ones that do are rarely ideal and the older cars are usually in disrepair (not to mention mold/mildew=smell..ugh). This leads to increased road noise, loss of interior harmonics and increased/decreasd cabin temperatures (based on season) to name a few. In efforts to combat these issues, a complete interior strip is necessary. All surfaces will need to evacuated of any existing insulation and or adhesives, then prepped and cleaned. Now, going back to what was discussed earlier in reference to unwanted "noise", with everything removed you will notice several small plastic snap-ins, bolts, clips, cables, etc....everyone one of these items are capable of producing unwanted noise. It is paramount that you tighten any exposed harware and buffer all clips, brackets etc...We use simple Black Mastic Roof/Flashing caulk on and around EVERYTHING. It is waterproof & weather resistant and provides a nice "bushing" effect...the vibrations are transferred to it, instead of your car (be sure to seal-off ALL firewall penetrations also).
Once all pieces have been touched up, you can install the SDM. Take your time, and cut nice even seams/corners and smooth out evenly. In areas adjacent to moving parts (fenderwells, firewall, tranny hump, rear axle) it is recommended to install 2 layers, with the top layer extending a minimum of 6" past the object in every direction (where possible). Usaully a two day job for an experienced installer or 2 weekends for a DIY'er (1 day=remove interior, 2 day=clean/prep/seal, install firewall & main floor, 3 day= cut trim from scraps & install, do overlays/doors & rear quarters, 4 day=re-install interior WITH NEW fasteners/washers/bushings).
Sorry....I didn't mean for this to be soooo long. I got a bit carried away.
Thanks again.
