Who has changed their ball joints and Ft wheel bearings??
05-31-2002, 08:10 AM
#1
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Who has changed their ball joints and Ft wheel bearings??
I went to get my alignment done and the techs noticed some play in my front wheels. I knew my ball joints were worn and need replacing but I am not sure about my front wheel bearings. Are they hard? I have heard bad things about the rears. Also how hard are the ball joints to replace? I will probably tackle them this weekend. Any suggestions??
05-31-2002, 11:14 AM
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Michael, the procedures in the Haynes manual cover this pretty well. Neither job is too bad.
You have an early car - your ball joints have probably been replaced before, but if not carefully drill out the rivets so as to not enlarge the holes in the control arm. In any event, use new bolts, there are three on each side. They must be hardened bolts, and are of a somewhat unusual size (can't remember what size at the moment). Not a bad idea to use Nylock nuts on them. Don't overtighten them, use a small torque wrench if you have one, the torque values are in the Haynes.
The wheel bearing races will have to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in (I know some drive them out with a punch, but I've never been a big fan of that method). The only finesse part is in the final adjustment for tightness. The "so you can just move the washer with a flat screwdriver without levering it against anything" approach works, but it is still really a "feel" thing. And remember to readjust them after driving the car a while.
Matt
You have an early car - your ball joints have probably been replaced before, but if not carefully drill out the rivets so as to not enlarge the holes in the control arm. In any event, use new bolts, there are three on each side. They must be hardened bolts, and are of a somewhat unusual size (can't remember what size at the moment). Not a bad idea to use Nylock nuts on them. Don't overtighten them, use a small torque wrench if you have one, the torque values are in the Haynes.
The wheel bearing races will have to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in (I know some drive them out with a punch, but I've never been a big fan of that method). The only finesse part is in the final adjustment for tightness. The "so you can just move the washer with a flat screwdriver without levering it against anything" approach works, but it is still really a "feel" thing. And remember to readjust them after driving the car a while.
Matt
05-31-2002, 11:22 AM
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Matt pretty much nailed it. Wheel bearings are great, but the races can be a little frustrating.
Early ball joints are in the Haynes Manual and are not that bad. Late joint replacement is a little more difficult, but the kit from SSI has great instructions.
Early ball joints are in the Haynes Manual and are not that bad. Late joint replacement is a little more difficult, but the kit from SSI has great instructions.
05-31-2002, 11:38 AM
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Michael,
As has been said the toughest part of front wheel bearing replacement is removing the old bearing races. If you don't have access to a press you can take a butane torch (low intensity flame) and heat hubs (keep the flame moving). Then take a Large Cold chisel or punch and a 'dead blow' hammer and knock out the old races. I had a buddy hold the hub steady against the work bench usning welding gloves while I pounded out the races. It took about 5 shots on each side of the race and out they came. No damage, nicks, scraps or anything.
To properly install the new races buy a simple race/seal installation tool. It will be a 6-8 inch handle with a stud on the tip. It will come with various sizes of two sided discs. It works like a charm. The races will go in nice and straight. Make sure you put the races in the freezer for 20-30 minutes and reheat the hubs. This will allow the new races to slip right in with only a few good blows to the seating tool.
IHTH, Max
As has been said the toughest part of front wheel bearing replacement is removing the old bearing races. If you don't have access to a press you can take a butane torch (low intensity flame) and heat hubs (keep the flame moving). Then take a Large Cold chisel or punch and a 'dead blow' hammer and knock out the old races. I had a buddy hold the hub steady against the work bench usning welding gloves while I pounded out the races. It took about 5 shots on each side of the race and out they came. No damage, nicks, scraps or anything.
To properly install the new races buy a simple race/seal installation tool. It will be a 6-8 inch handle with a stud on the tip. It will come with various sizes of two sided discs. It works like a charm. The races will go in nice and straight. Make sure you put the races in the freezer for 20-30 minutes and reheat the hubs. This will allow the new races to slip right in with only a few good blows to the seating tool.
IHTH, Max
05-31-2002, 02:45 PM
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Luckily, I am going to atlanta for class for the next week. 
So Mike gets to do this himself.
I like how you all say that it is easy, and then start describing some crazy stuff.
What about the bearings and ball joints on an 85.5?
Thanks for the help fellas.
So Mike gets to do this himself. I like how you all say that it is easy, and then start describing some crazy stuff.
What about the bearings and ball joints on an 85.5?
Thanks for the help fellas.