EFI'd 931 Makes It's First Auto-x *Pictures*
10-07-2008 | 02:21 AM
#1
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From: Eau Claire, WI
EFI'd 931 Makes It's First Auto-x *Pictures*
So, after about a month of troubleshooting an issue, I finally got it straightened out, and got it tuned enough to take it to the track. Luckily it was just in time for the last autocross of the season... I have a few pictures:
This was my first attempt at tuning, unfortunately the troubleshooting issue I had caused this, my newbness allowed it to happen...
The above caused the below:
Then, I learned how to tear my motor apart(first time I had taken it apart in 4 years.
Overall, I was competitive to an extent, but not nearly as competitive as the car should have been, I was really disappointed, part of it was because of the tune I have on it, and the other part was the amount of understeer. Although, it seems to have taken the abuse rather well, considering i made 6 runs, in two separate groups, of basically 45 of the car running/waiting in line being pounded on, then back to the end of the line. From that aspect I was happy to see it run well, until the very last run, my 8$ manual boost controller fell apart and decided to over boost a bit! All is well though.
Also, after the autocross, it's help point out where my car is lacking. Unfortunately, it doesn't have a stock rear sway bar, so I was understeering on all the sharp corners. Also, I've had the car for about 4.5 years and haven't touched the brakes
so I need to refresh those. I'm also thinking that the shocks(which were replaced with stock units about 7000 miles/2years ago.) are way too soft to be competitive.
This was my first attempt at tuning, unfortunately the troubleshooting issue I had caused this, my newbness allowed it to happen...
The above caused the below:
Then, I learned how to tear my motor apart(first time I had taken it apart in 4 years.
Overall, I was competitive to an extent, but not nearly as competitive as the car should have been, I was really disappointed, part of it was because of the tune I have on it, and the other part was the amount of understeer. Although, it seems to have taken the abuse rather well, considering i made 6 runs, in two separate groups, of basically 45 of the car running/waiting in line being pounded on, then back to the end of the line. From that aspect I was happy to see it run well, until the very last run, my 8$ manual boost controller fell apart and decided to over boost a bit! All is well though.
Also, after the autocross, it's help point out where my car is lacking. Unfortunately, it doesn't have a stock rear sway bar, so I was understeering on all the sharp corners. Also, I've had the car for about 4.5 years and haven't touched the brakes
so I need to refresh those. I'm also thinking that the shocks(which were replaced with stock units about 7000 miles/2years ago.) are way too soft to be competitive.
10-07-2008 | 09:02 AM
#3
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,684
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From: Rochester, NY
looks like the front wheel is going to pop right out, lol
very nice! I went to my 1st this past weekend as well; alas I had my own issues with tires; but your car looks really great! love the hood/header panel, and the black/red wheels are a great touch!
also I found out my early 944 already has a rear sway bar, yay for me! if it was optional for the car, does that mean you can still get one and not get bumped in class?
great pics too!
PS: if this was your 1st, no instructor?
very nice! I went to my 1st this past weekend as well; alas I had my own issues with tires; but your car looks really great! love the hood/header panel, and the black/red wheels are a great touch!
also I found out my early 944 already has a rear sway bar, yay for me! if it was optional for the car, does that mean you can still get one and not get bumped in class?
great pics too!
PS: if this was your 1st, no instructor?
10-07-2008 | 12:29 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,401
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From: Anaheim, CA
That's for more HP. The hole also helps with that oh-so-popular blow-off sound *pppssshhh*
Just kidding Flosho. Sorry to hear about your engine woes man, but glad to see you're auto-crossing.
I would have to agree about your camber being WAY too positive. You're going to wear out the outside edge of you tires in a hurry that way. You should be able to get about 1.5-2.0 degrees of negative camber with the eccentric bolt. I would highly recommend camber plates though. I know they're pricey, but you can dial in exactly what you need up front in about 1 minute flat.
If you bite the bullet, some bigger torsion bars and front coil-over kit (along with shocks of course) will really transform that car. As me how I know
Just kidding Flosho. Sorry to hear about your engine woes man, but glad to see you're auto-crossing.
I would have to agree about your camber being WAY too positive. You're going to wear out the outside edge of you tires in a hurry that way. You should be able to get about 1.5-2.0 degrees of negative camber with the eccentric bolt. I would highly recommend camber plates though. I know they're pricey, but you can dial in exactly what you need up front in about 1 minute flat.
If you bite the bullet, some bigger torsion bars and front coil-over kit (along with shocks of course) will really transform that car. As me how I know
10-07-2008 | 01:19 PM
#7
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From: Eau Claire, WI
I will definitely look into the camber issue, it may be present because of the alignment I didn't have after installing the welt 250# springs?
I've been looking into the suspension, and figure if I'm going to go with coilovers, i'm going to do all 4 corners and eliminate the torsion bars all together. If I go this route I'll also have camber plates, along with new bushings, ball joints, and the control arms all at once. Looking at the ground control set up.
Also, this wasn't my first ever autocross, just the first one with this car since I took out the CIS and converted it to EFI with megasquirt!
Also-also, Instructors are optional, even for newbs.
I've been looking into the suspension, and figure if I'm going to go with coilovers, i'm going to do all 4 corners and eliminate the torsion bars all together. If I go this route I'll also have camber plates, along with new bushings, ball joints, and the control arms all at once. Looking at the ground control set up.
Also, this wasn't my first ever autocross, just the first one with this car since I took out the CIS and converted it to EFI with megasquirt!
Also-also, Instructors are optional, even for newbs.
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10-07-2008 | 03:01 PM
#8
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From: Rockaway, NJ
Doing the 250# springs would have lowered the car and given you more negative camber not positive.
Doing coil over all the way around may not be possible. Shoot me an e-mail and we can discuss futher about how to get coil overs on your car.
I run a 1984 944 that I have done lots of different work to and have the car very competitive in NJ.
Doing coil over all the way around may not be possible. Shoot me an e-mail and we can discuss futher about how to get coil overs on your car.
I run a 1984 944 that I have done lots of different work to and have the car very competitive in NJ.
10-07-2008 | 03:31 PM
#9
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Ground control offers coilovers for the front and say their rears work on a 924, and are also saying they are developing a kit specially for the steal trailing arms. Also, when I emailed paragon about rear coilovers, I was told the steel arms are fine, and in some cases preferred because they bend instead of breaking.
I will send an email your way, I'd like to hear what you have to say!
I will send an email your way, I'd like to hear what you have to say!
10-07-2008 | 03:37 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,401
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From: Anaheim, CA
+1 on steel arms. New they're $25 and ball-joints can be replaced very easily (and they're only $14)
I would look into the two bolts that mount the front strut housing to the hub. You can get positive or negative camber just by loosening both and turning the upper bolt. Very easy and it'll help save your tires. Do the toe alignment after that adjustment of course.
I would look into the two bolts that mount the front strut housing to the hub. You can get positive or negative camber just by loosening both and turning the upper bolt. Very easy and it'll help save your tires. Do the toe alignment after that adjustment of course.
10-07-2008 | 03:46 PM
#11
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From: Eau Claire, WI
I am running turbo phone dials, with stock tire sizes.. 225/50 in rear and 205/55 in front.
10-07-2008 | 08:47 PM
#12
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Here's what skip said when I asked about the steel rear trailing arms:
Jason,
The steel arms are actually somewhat preferred over the cast as the lower mounts are favorable to side-load compared to the single-point mounts of the late models cars. The only problem with early steel arms is that most aftermarket coil-overs use the larger diameter bolts from the later models. No worries, though, most speed shops will have all the parts required to make them fit (shims, etc).
The only nice-to-do item I would also recommend is to replace the torsion tube end bushings with either Weltmeister (poly-graphite) or Racer's Edge (delrin).
The steel arms are actually somewhat preferred over the cast as the lower mounts are favorable to side-load compared to the single-point mounts of the late models cars. The only problem with early steel arms is that most aftermarket coil-overs use the larger diameter bolts from the later models. No worries, though, most speed shops will have all the parts required to make them fit (shims, etc).
The only nice-to-do item I would also recommend is to replace the torsion tube end bushings with either Weltmeister (poly-graphite) or Racer's Edge (delrin).