AX993

Just thought I might add an alternative to the mouth-to-reservoir method.

I have an old yellow Prestone funnel (that they use to sell at Autozone and other auto parts stores, haven't seen one lately though) that fits snugly in the reservoir cap opening. I keep the funnel filled up with pre-mixed coolant while the bleed screw is open. I start this with the engine cold and off, then start the engine and continue to fill the funnel while the bleed screw is open (and making sure the heater valve is open to also force the air out of the heater core).

I continue this until after I know the thermostat is open, then tighten the bleed screw, & quickly remove the funnel and replace the cap on the reservoir. I then let the engine warm fully to the point that first the radiator fans come on slow, then full speed. After the second time the fans come on full speed , the process is complete. This is per factory manual (I think) to verify that the system is in good working order (ie, the system is bled of air).

Because the level of the coolant in the funnel is higher than the engine, this method seems to force the air out of the system very well. At least it works for me and my '88 944S. YMMV of course.

genikz

You guys are brave. I wouldn't make out with my nasty *** reservoir if you paid me. I just go to Autozone and rent their cooling system pressure tester. The cap screws right onto the reservoir and you use the hand pump to build up a few PSI. Then crack the bleeder valve and you're done in 10 seconds flat.

m73m95

Antifreeze tastes good though. Its sweet like candy.......I haven't pee'd in a week, is that bad?

Smoker324

Nope -- perfectly normal


I have dibs on the lsd and leather steering wheel.....

-Dan C

jej3

I love Rennlist… owned my 924 for a bit under a month and it puked up some Coolant after I filled it.

Welp, I made out with the coolant tank (seal it with your hand and then blow through your hand, pinching the overflow with the other hand) and bled the system just fine.

For good measure, I purchase a $5 coolant reservoir cap @ AutoZone and the system is working just fine.

I am a firm believer in putting on a new cap when you flush.... in this case, I did it before I flush (in cooler weather in the fall) but it's a cheap thing to do.

I have enjoyed the 928 forum here for years but thank you to everyone who is contributing here!

John_AZ

Trey,

Not all radiator/coolant tank caps are equal. They may "fit" but may not hold the correct pressure.
The cap for the '87 924S is a 150 kpa or 21 psi cap used on the later 944s and the '87 & '88 924S
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2C%20%39%36%38

The early 944/1 used the 110kpa/16 pound cap and is about $5-8.

Just info.

John

Hollywood D

I bled mine a few months ago after getting a bunch of air into it. I cracked the bleeder, poured some coolant into the reservoir until it came gushing out of the bleeder hole and sealed it back up. Been fine since. It seemed like the extra pressure from pouring the coolant into the reservoir helped push everything out through the bleeder valve.

jej3

Thanks, John. The cap I put on was one that AutoZone looked up on their computer. I'm sure they can be wrong but I think the Behr cap I had was leaking pressure. I filled the coolant reservoir to just above the minimum line and it puked it all up out the overflow once hot.

I then read a bunch of threads and realized that there may have been air in the system from the prior owner (I've only had the car a few weeks) WP replacement.

So I bled using the mouth to res procedure and topped up with distilled water to the minimum line. I let the car idle and go through heat cycles a couple of times with the new AutoZone cap on and "No More Leaky"

I do plan on doing a full flush of all fluids with my son in the Fall and probably will replace the $5 AutoZone cap with an $18 Behr cap at that time.

Until then, I am certain, I don't run the risk of running low on coolant again, as I faced with the prior owners uninformed maintenance of the cooling system.

Cheers

gtroth

I connect the top (pressure) port of my Mityvac to the overflow port on the tank, rad cap on, crack open the bleeder valve and pressurize until i see something comming out the bleeder. Close bleeder when bubbles stop. Then after warming up the engine, I briefly crack again with engine running (wear gloves). Has never failed.