944smitty

Does it look OK?
Any suggestions?
Like the idea of just printing this out when messing with the belts...
(Thanks to <a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/" target="_blank">Clark's Garage</a> for the info).

Robert D

Very nice.

944smitty

Someday, maybe, I'll become literate...
gaurd = guard...

fixed

ringo951

Very nice. Saved for future use. If you ever feel like adding anything to it, and if you have room for it, the size of the nuts/bolts by the label would be great. That way you would grab the right tools before starting the job. Just an idea.... Looks great though. Thanks.

dlr944

Excellent timing! Tried printing the picture but it got cut off. Can you send the file or make it available for down loading?

Thanks!

MHT

looks really good, in your case you do not need the specs for cam belt tension as the auto. tensioner does it for you. the bolts and nuts securing all the rolers and tensioners are 17mm. The bolts in the front of the bal. shaft pulleys are also 17mm hex. the bolts themselves are actually 10mm. the hardware on the auto tensioner is 13mm hex except for the nut and bolt that secure the roller itself which are 17mm again. Personally I like to deflect the bal. belt by a little more that 1mm, if the idler barely contacts the belt it can flap on that long section and make noise. For cars before 87 the cam belt tensioner should be rotated counter-clockwise to tension the belt, this gives the most wrap on the water pump pulley. The front crank bolt has a 24mm hex head.

zakk

One thing I noticed. For the balance shafts, you have 'use loctite 574' next to the torque specs. This implies you need to use loctite on the bolts/nuts, which is not the case. Loctite 574 is a sealant and is used when putting the balance shaft COVER back on. (the thing that runs from front to back on the engine that goes over the balance shaft). I'm not sure how commonly it's pulled in a normal front end belt+seal job, and honestly from looking at things I'd be scared to attempt it with the engine in the car. Just an FYI that the notation there may be unclear and cause some confusion.

OriginalSterm

As long as this is up...

Can someone tell me if the nut on the timing belt tensioner roller is a 17mm? If so, should I keep my damn hands off of it? Because I didn't, and now it won't really tighten down so well. Just sort of spins with the bolt.

944smitty

ringo951 - bolt sizes added

dlr944 - emailed the sheet to your hotmail address

MHT - Check this thread out to see why relying on the auto-tensioner only can be dangerous:
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=021999" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=021999</a>

zakk - oops!, deleted the Loctite reference

OriginalSterm - it's a bolt with a nut on the back. You'll have to loosen or remove the tensioner to get to the back of it.

Thanks for your help & suggestions :-)

Der Cupmeister

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Can someone tell me if the nut on the timing belt tensioner roller is a 17mm? If so, should I keep my damn hands off of it? Because I didn't, and now it won't really tighten down so well. Just sort of spins with the bolt. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yes, it is a 17 mm nut with a final torque of around 33 ft/lbs. Sounds like the stud has stripped the threads in the block.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

Der Cupmeister

"One thing I noticed. For the balance shafts, you have 'use loctite 574' next to the torque specs. This implies you need to use loctite on the bolts/nuts, which is not the case. Loctite 574 is a sealant and is used when putting the balance shaft COVER back on. (the thing that runs from front to back on the engine that goes over the balance shaft)."

Actually, the FSM says to use Loctite 574 on the threads of the sprocket bolt. Section 13, page 13-44b and 13-44d, items #1 and #30.

Skitch

Is the only difference for an early N/A the tensioner?

deni durrell

for more data, you guys can use info @ Clark's site:

<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-10.htm" target="_blank">Timing Belt and Balance Shaft Belt Tensioning</a>

His site, if everyone hasn't bookmarked it yet:

<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/" target="_blank">Clark's Garage</a>

ringo951

944smitty <img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/bowdown" alt=" - " /> Awesome job. Saved it again. This will really help with the belt job.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

pete944

Hmmm. My car has an idler roller just under the spring tensioner and above the balance belt drive sprocket. In your drawing it would be right under the tensioner spring. I've never seen this one in any drawings of the belt layout. What gives?