sm

I received my motor mounts today and was wondering how do we know for sure if they're factory parts? I made sure I bought the NON-aftermarket parts, and these do have the part number molded onto the rubber. They also have a "P" in a triangle, but I don't think that stands for Porsche. I took pics, but can't upload them until tomorrow night or so. Any hints?

Thanks

Skip

Check out these two pics - I can't guarantee either will match...

<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/944mount_a.jpg" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/944mount_a.jpg</a>

<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/944mount_o.jpg" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/944mount_o.jpg</a>

sm

Cool, the ones I have look like the factory ones -darker brass color, dimples in the same spots, and numbers in the same spots.

As always, thanks Skip for your help.

BTW, so what's the final consensus on the steering universal joint (name?) - does it have to be disconnected?

Thanks!

Skip

[quote]Originally posted by sm:
<strong>BTW, so what's the final consensus on the steering universal joint (name?) - does it have to be disconnected?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Sounds like a good name... yes, it must be disconnected.

S

Edwardo

I once had both the aftermarket and OEM units (as sold by Paragon) in my hand at the same time. They were absolutely identical in appearance, part number, etc., except for a slightly different shade of (anodize?) color.

The OEM was only 1/2 as stiff in bending, however. It worked, the aftermarket didn't.

mark944turbo

"Yes, the steering universal joint must be removed"

Are you saying that it must be removed while replacing the motor mounts? I could not really follow that in the post. Right now I am doing mine and I stripped one of the bolts on this universal joint. I still have plenty of access to get the crossmember off. It may give you more room to take the rack off but it is not necessary.

sm

Mark,

I'd be interested in seeing pics or hearing any feedback you may have regarding this job as I'll be doing it over the weekend. It sounds pretty straightforward from Skip's writeup, but as usual, I'm thinking about it too much

Enzo's Nightmare

I remember seeing in a DEVEK catalog that the triangle with the P in the middle is indeed a factory part. It was just one of the ways the factory identified their parts.

sm

Mark, Skip, et. al.-

A fellow Rennlister and I started the motor mount repair this Sunday and no, we didn't finish it. Those *$%# motor mount bolts are a pain to get to, but I think we have a good handle on the ones that are towards the rear of the car.

Questions:
1) Why are the the motor mount bolts towards the front of the car ON SO TIGHT whereas the rear ones come off easily after you break them?

2) My steering u-joint bolt is rusted, so I want to avoid taking that apart. Can I unbolt the steering rack and associated lines from the crossmember so that I can just lower the crossmember by itself? Of course I will support the steering rack with a jackstand or two.

3) How much does a mechanic charge for labor to change these puppies? Why does Skip's write-up make it sound so easy?

Thanks in advance.

SoCal Driver

I supported the engine from the bottom and dropped the cross member down to change mine.

Yes I had to remove the A-arm from the cross member to get to the large bottom bolt.

Mark the rear A-arm location. Either the actual position if an early 944 or the rotation of the caster setting on the later aluminum arms.

Don't take the arms off of the struts!

If your engine mounts have been changed before the bolts used should be the correct length. If they are the older style where there is a nut on the end of the bolt you will either need shorter bolts or use the thick washers from the old style and shim the bolts.

So don't worry about breaking the top bolts. You can buy metric at Home Depot or a well stocked Ace Hardware.

As to the steering link; mark the bottom link and the steering rack to get them lined back up when you put the cross member back on. If the u-joints in the link are worn it's cheaper to find a good used one rather than the $300 most want for a new one.