Q about replacing rubber boot on half-shaft
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Location: Falls Church, VA
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Found a torn inboard boot, got a new one at the P-shop ($65- plus: OUCH), and crawled under (yeah-- held up in 3 places) fought with the 6 hex-head bolts, got 'em all. Borrowed a split-ring tool after my modified needle-nose failed me, and got the ring off --and the 2 metal zip-strips securing the old boot. (Can I re-ese them, or will they fail when I try to fold them back on themselves? And why doesn't Porsche put new ones in the bag with the boot? I'd hate to have to drive over there again.) BUT I CAN'T get the cv joint to slide off the shaft end, even with the split ring out of the way. WHAT'S the magic solution-- I hate to use a hammer on the back of the cv to drive it off-- can't do the cv on either end of theshaft any good. HELP! Thanks -Chris in the DC 'burbs
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You can reuse them, but they are a PITA to get on securely unless you have the specific crimp tool to do them.
If you can't get them to crimp correctly, you should be able to buy generic cv boot clamps at a local parts store for not much.
If you can't get them to crimp correctly, you should be able to buy generic cv boot clamps at a local parts store for not much.
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Sounds like a plan, but still wondering why the CV won't slide off the end of the axle half-shaft. Any ideas?
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Buying the boot at the dealer was a mistake. I bought the Lobro OEM boot+grease+snap ring kit from another supplier for $16 each and shipping. Keep it in mind if you need to do another one.
For clamps, I purchased two worm gear screw clamps and thread them in on each other, tightening them evenly.
For removing the CV- hopefully you have someone else around. Remove (cut) the old boot, and clean the excess grease. Grab the CV body in the palm of your hands, with the end of the axle facing upward and the halfshaft between your fingers. Have someone else seat a punch in the hole on the axle, and gently hammer it. This should act like a puller would, and it will remove it if the joint isn't rusted on. Do it over a table, as the halfshaft and other CV will fall down.
Be sure to mark a radius line on the outside of the CV with Testors paint. It'll make assembly take 5 minutes instead of a couple hours.
For clamps, I purchased two worm gear screw clamps and thread them in on each other, tightening them evenly.
For removing the CV- hopefully you have someone else around. Remove (cut) the old boot, and clean the excess grease. Grab the CV body in the palm of your hands, with the end of the axle facing upward and the halfshaft between your fingers. Have someone else seat a punch in the hole on the axle, and gently hammer it. This should act like a puller would, and it will remove it if the joint isn't rusted on. Do it over a table, as the halfshaft and other CV will fall down.
Be sure to mark a radius line on the outside of the CV with Testors paint. It'll make assembly take 5 minutes instead of a couple hours.
#5
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I was able to quite easily remove the CV by placing a socket (19mm or so, something just a little smaller than the shaft) on the end of the shaft, and while holding the CV with my hand... hitting the socket with a hammer. Took 30 seconds and it was off.
#6
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You got past the hardest part - that greasy circlip slip ring. The rest should be easy.
I put the CV race on my vise with the jaws open enough for the shaft. Then tapped out the shaft.
I put the CV race on my vise with the jaws open enough for the shaft. Then tapped out the shaft.