Rear Right tire won't stay aligned
#1
Rear Right tire won't stay aligned
Hey Guys,
I'm new here, picked up this: in October.
89k miles. Only updates since i bought it, 17" twist wheels, broken sunroof gears and test pipe/chip/mbc.
I'm new to the Porsche world, my old car was this:
I spend a lot of time on saablink.net
360 wtq
360 crank hp.
GT28
52lb injectors
etc...
Other Current Car: 310 wtq
Anyways, as the title says, I'm having difficulty keeping the right rear tire aligned. The shop has done it twice, and it keeps getting toed in an inch or so at the top. Only the right rear tire is doing it, all others are staying aligned properly. Any idea what might fix this?
I'm new here, picked up this: in October.
89k miles. Only updates since i bought it, 17" twist wheels, broken sunroof gears and test pipe/chip/mbc.
I'm new to the Porsche world, my old car was this:
I spend a lot of time on saablink.net
360 wtq
360 crank hp.
GT28
52lb injectors
etc...
Other Current Car: 310 wtq
Anyways, as the title says, I'm having difficulty keeping the right rear tire aligned. The shop has done it twice, and it keeps getting toed in an inch or so at the top. Only the right rear tire is doing it, all others are staying aligned properly. Any idea what might fix this?
#2
Rennlist Member
Sorry I don't know, but is that green car a 1999 saab 9-3?
My little brother just bought one of those with the LPTurbo. Pretty nice. How much did it cost to get that 350 out of it, roughly? Did it break the bank or was it pretty reasonable?
My little brother just bought one of those with the LPTurbo. Pretty nice. How much did it cost to get that 350 out of it, roughly? Did it break the bank or was it pretty reasonable?
#4
you'd need at least about $6-800 in bracing/poly mounts.
I got a deal on some used stuff, picked up the ecu, turbo, downpipe, and injectors for $1200, retail value probably 2-3k
Clutch 350
intake 100
intercooler 350
Full 3" exhaust 650
ECU 550
Injectors 300
Turbo - depends what you can find reasonably- ebay
2.5" delivery pipe 300
All work done by me and not a shop, $$$$$$$.
here's my list of mods:
Model Year:
1999
Model:
9-3
Transmission:
5 speed
Mileage:
92k
Location:
Burlington, VT Garaged
Engine Mods:
GS Intake + Custom Tubing
MP Intercooler
JT 3" turbo back catless exhaust
JSP Stage 5 ecu
Forge Twin Piston BOV
GT28RS Turbo
52lb/hr injectors
Chassis Mods:
GS 6pt Subframe brace
GS Rack clamp & Brace
GS 25mm ARB
H & R Springs
TSW AVUS R 17" wheels
Bridgestone Potenza Tires 215/40/17
Cross Drilled Rotors
Akebono Pro Stop Ceramic Pads
Other Mods:
Custom Subwoofer Boxes
Niche Audio 3200 Watt Amp
Infinity kappa perfect 10.1 Subs (2)
Infinity Kappa 6"x9" speakers
Infinity Reference 3.5" speakers
SWI-PS regained steering wheel controls
Aux in wired into Center Console
Pioneer Avic-d1 navigation double din head Unit
Remote Key FOB
Leather Shift Boot
Leather Ebrake Boot
SAAB Sliding front arm rest
Turbo Vanity Plate
Cleared Corners
Smoked Turn Signals
Silverstar headlamps
Saab Viggen steering wheel
Debaged
Boost gauge in dash
Black Mesh Grille
MP/DIP Short Shifter
Waiting to install:
Viggen Look antenna
5door Catalog Kit
Saab pedestal Spoiler
Paint Job
1999
Model:
9-3
Transmission:
5 speed
Mileage:
92k
Location:
Burlington, VT Garaged
Engine Mods:
GS Intake + Custom Tubing
MP Intercooler
JT 3" turbo back catless exhaust
JSP Stage 5 ecu
Forge Twin Piston BOV
GT28RS Turbo
52lb/hr injectors
Chassis Mods:
GS 6pt Subframe brace
GS Rack clamp & Brace
GS 25mm ARB
H & R Springs
TSW AVUS R 17" wheels
Bridgestone Potenza Tires 215/40/17
Cross Drilled Rotors
Akebono Pro Stop Ceramic Pads
Other Mods:
Custom Subwoofer Boxes
Niche Audio 3200 Watt Amp
Infinity kappa perfect 10.1 Subs (2)
Infinity Kappa 6"x9" speakers
Infinity Reference 3.5" speakers
SWI-PS regained steering wheel controls
Aux in wired into Center Console
Pioneer Avic-d1 navigation double din head Unit
Remote Key FOB
Leather Shift Boot
Leather Ebrake Boot
SAAB Sliding front arm rest
Turbo Vanity Plate
Cleared Corners
Smoked Turn Signals
Silverstar headlamps
Saab Viggen steering wheel
Debaged
Boost gauge in dash
Black Mesh Grille
MP/DIP Short Shifter
Waiting to install:
Viggen Look antenna
5door Catalog Kit
Saab pedestal Spoiler
Paint Job
Anyone know why my camber goes off so easily?
#6
Rennlist Member
Nice Viggen... you see less of those than Silver Roses! BTW, welcome to the silver rose club.
You're askin' about the camber... Are you sure your rear wheel bearings are good?
The "banana arm", the aluminum cast suspension arm, kind of "slides" on the steel spring plate (that's connected to the torsion bar). There are 3 bolts (one is your sway bar mount) that hold the banana arm to the spring plate. The inner banana arm mount is a "fixed pivot" - when you loosen the 3 bolts, the outside of the banana arm can slide up and down to change the camber, and forward and back to change the toe.
If your wheel bearings are good, then either: a) your 3 bolts are getting loose allowing the camber to change; or b) your inner pivot point bushing is disintegrating and allowing the inside of the banana arm to move up and down, which is allowing camber to change.
Good luck with it.
You're askin' about the camber... Are you sure your rear wheel bearings are good?
The "banana arm", the aluminum cast suspension arm, kind of "slides" on the steel spring plate (that's connected to the torsion bar). There are 3 bolts (one is your sway bar mount) that hold the banana arm to the spring plate. The inner banana arm mount is a "fixed pivot" - when you loosen the 3 bolts, the outside of the banana arm can slide up and down to change the camber, and forward and back to change the toe.
If your wheel bearings are good, then either: a) your 3 bolts are getting loose allowing the camber to change; or b) your inner pivot point bushing is disintegrating and allowing the inside of the banana arm to move up and down, which is allowing camber to change.
Good luck with it.
Last edited by Van; 07-01-2008 at 11:07 AM.