Got it running last night. I had done oil pan seal, front seals and belts, injector service, new intake/water hoses, replaced DME harness + other minor stuff.
It idles rough and is somewhat slugish. I rechecked vacuum lines, hoses, etc and they all seem tight and properly routed. I checked the timing and the cam mark appears to be about 1 tooth behind (to the left) the mark on the cover.

My question is the timing off sufficiently to cause the slugishness or should I be looking for another problem?

Also, the boost gauge on my dash is not working now (was before I did the work)- any ideas?
Thanks

 

If you're off one tooth it will run rough and sluggish (don't ask how I know). Get all your marks lined up, it will make a lot of difference.

 

Dead boost guage:
If your KLR vacuum/boost hose is kinked or cut, the computer will not be able to compensate for the boost/vacuum. That will cause alot problems.

 

Possibly a vacuum leak. Did you remember to reconnect the small banjo bolt and associated fittings between the #3 & #4 intake runners? This is where the KLR gets it boost/vaccum rading from in order to run the boost gauge.

Rob

 

I made sure that the connections at both the KLR and intake were tight. I have not done a leak test on the actual tube, though. I will check it tonight.

I assume that the boost gauge is electronic and gets it's signal from the KLR? Could the KLR not be working right?

 

A tube comes off the intake and goes into the KLR. The connection to the KLR can be pulled off with little trouble. This also causes a vacumm leak.

 

Also check out your air-temp sensor and idle-stabilizer valve. If they're not working correctly, you'll get a rough idle when the engine's cold. In some cases, you even have to hold the throttle open yourself to get it idle.

 

mine runs poorly now too the msd was to blame for the major prob but now I getting bad backfiring popping mostly when the boost comes on if i get into it easily and slowly it will usually rev right up but just smacking the throttle it usually coughs

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>Also check out your air-temp sensor and idle-stabilizer valve...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">It was idling ok before the work, but I will check these. I know the ISV but where is the air-temp sensor?

 

The temp sensor for the DME is under the intake manifold at the front of the engine by cylinder #1. You can see it if you look right under the intake. It has a blue electrical plug connected to it. If you pull the connector off you can do a resistance check on the detector. It is an NTC resistor so it should read high resistance at room temp and lower as it heats up.

Did you check the TPS? If the TPS idle circuit is faulty you will have bad idle as well.

 

That's the DME water temp sensor, the air temp sensor is in the air flow sensor assembly (barn door). I think it is between pins 1 and 4 of the five pin connector.

 

Sounds simple, but make sure the water temp sensor for the computer is connected good. If its off, the car will run pretty rough. Also check your grounds.

Take Care!

 

Here is an update. I checked out most of the items mentioned and they were ok. I took the covers off and R&R the belts aligining the cam on the mark and if runs significantly better. The belt makes a minor whine noise. Should I be concerned or just take care of it at the 2K retension?
Thanks