I just put in a new radiator. Filled it, let it run, and bled it a few times. STILL OVERHEATING, I HATE THIS ****ING CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I WASNT TO KICK THE CRAP OUT OF IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Sorry about that last post guys, I was just really hoping that that was the problem.

Christian

 

No no, don't apologize, I just stripped the drain bolt on my transmission.

 

[quote]Originally posted by Tremelune:
<strong>No no, don't apologize, I just stripped the drain bolt on my transmission.</strong><hr></blockquote>

i guess many ppl will suggest you keep bleeding.

drain some of the coolant out and take a look at it.

is it crystal clean?? see any oily swirls?? or just gunk.

check in a day or two.

if you replace every part that you suspect is bad, you will go broke fast.

keep bleeding, and keep checking the coolant.

 

I'll do that. But Im afraid to drive it. After a few minutes it overheats.

Christian

Coolant is clean. No oily swirls

 

[quote]Originally posted by DerSchlechtSpecht:
<strong>I'll do that. But Im afraid to drive it. After a few minutes it overheats.

Christian

Coolant is clean. No oily swirls</strong><hr></blockquote>

let it idel, let the fans kick on, when you bled the air, do you see coolant or air/steam.

when the temperature gets at it's highest, touch the upper radiator hose. is it too hot to touch?? or can u grab it for a few seconds?

 

Just to rule out the head gasket, I would do a compression test.

 

definitely don't drive it with an overheating problem.

I mean with the car in idle, shut it off when the temp gets too high.

while the car is warm and if the hoses aren't too hot, squeeze the hoses while you play with the bleed valve. this normally helps to get the some of the air out.

be careful of the fans, while you squeeze the hoses,

 

I've been keeping up w/this post for the most part, but don't want to re-read it all, and I'm not sure if you've addressed all of what I'm about to write, so please excuse me if you have...

1st off- you said up fron that you replaced the waterpump. Are you positively sure that the water is circulating through the turbo properly? Refer to my first reply in this thread if you don't remember. My mechanic found this to be a problem w/mine by grabbing the hose that leads to the turbo from the water pump and to see if it was hot (just like JohnK suggested, only w/that particular hose)...

2nd- realistically, how long are you talking about when you say the car overheats by the end of your street, or "in a few minutes?" It really should take at least 5 minutes to get the car up to full, normal operating temp- I'm just not sure exactly what you mean by that- even when my car was really overheating, it would take about 10 full minutes to get up to that temp when starting it from cold for my mechanic to check it...

3rd- since you have now changed the radiator (sorry that didn't help- I know you must be EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED) have you actually gotten the car up to freeway speeds (80mph or so)? If you can, try it, and see if the temp goes down at all- if it does, sahy at 75mph, cruise up to 100 or so, and see if it cools anymore, then keep your speed up and get home fast b/c you know (from experience) the temp will rise when you slow down...

4th- Are the fans actually coming on before it overheats, and, is the coolant circulating correctly? I assume they are, since you said you changed the thermostats and all, but you need to make sure the stuf is actually working- not trying to be funny, I'm just asking to be 100% sure...

5th- have you tried turning on the AC while it's overheating (or just before)- that should turn the fan on- of course it should be coming on anyway... What about the heater? When my car was running really hot (as I said before, it's still running a little hot) I could turn the heater on full hot at full blast and the temp would come dowm a little- it worked better on the freeway b/c of the extra air flow...

Also, the radiator cap- it may sound trivial and/or stupid, but it has been the culprit in more than one hot 944...

Man, I do feel for you, and can definately relate w/your frustration- Good luck...

 

Robby,
Boy do you know it. This car has no turbo. Compression test while hot read 1- 142 psi 2-138 psi 3- 142 psi 4- 140 psi. The car overheats in a matter of minutes. My street is several miles long. Sorry about that one guys. And yes the car really is overheating. It definatly is.

Christian

 

Christan- That's right- I forgot it was a NA...

Try to get it up to speed, if you think you can get away w/it w/out overheating it way too badly- if the interstate's to far away, try a highway that you can get up to at least 50mph or so w/out having to stop or slow down for at least a mile or so, and see if the temp doesn't start to drop- really, the best way to do this, is drive when there is little traffic (late night/early morning?) and get on a road w/no stop signs or red lights that you can't at least roll through w/out danger, and raise the speed a little- really, by the time you hit close to 60mph in 5th, you should be getting plenty enough air to cool it a little- I'm not sure what this would prove, but if it doesn't cool the engine, then it would seem you have a serious problem- not sure what- seems like it would be strange though. Anyway, if the temp goes way down, then it's possible you need to bleed some more air out, although I doubt you have as much air in there as I did- I can only assume that was the reason why my car got cooler on the freeway, but hot in stop and go. Did you do the radiator yourself? How much coolant did you get into the tank when re-filling? You should have gotten almost 2 gallons- mine was short by just over a gallon when my (then new) mechanic checked it. Everyone says this car is a bitch to get all the air out, and that you can bleed the air out REALLY WELL, and still come back a month later and bleed a tiny bit more- I think I did that w/mechanic the first time, but not sure- I KNOW we bled it several weeks later when the new radiator was installed. Also, the radiator cap- if you didn't buy a new one, you may want to, as it's the most inexpensive thing you can do for this. In all honestt though, I doubt that either bleeding all the air (IF you haven't already) and/or buying a new cap (IF yours is bad) would comletely fix this prob- it sounds like you have a different prob altogether, and I wich someone who really knows LOT about the cooling system of these cars would read this thread and offer a new suggestion b/c now it's getting me frustrated too especially since I've gone, and am still (slightly) going through the same thing.

Oh, last thing- since you are being quite adamant about fixing this (so far) try to grag a stop watch, and see how long it takes for your car to go from completely cold to red (or right when it passes the top white line). You can do it either while trying to get it somewhere, or, just by turning it on and letting it idle- it still sounds (from your description) like the damn things going from cold to running temp to red zone a little on the quick side, b/c it's basically summer here, and when I turn on my car, I let it sit for right at 30 seconds- I pull out of my parking garage and turn onto a side street- about 1 minute more (1.5 min total)- I drive upand over the hill and almost ALWAYS get stopped at the FU**ING light and it usually lasts about 2 full minutes- during that time, the engine gets just hot enough for the smoke to start pouring out of the hood from my oil leaks (mostly oil pan gaskets) and it's about a FULL 2 min after that, by the time I'm merging on the freeway (b/c of SLOW ASSES), and it's usually about 15 more seconds or so before the gauge climbs all the way up to the regular running temp (almost 6 full minutes) and the fan has not had to come on yet, as the car isnt hot enough to need it- it will stay this way, even when really hot and if I get off the freeway into a diveway quick enough, then the fans wont ever come on. On cold winter days, it usually takes about 3 more minutes (total)- I usually sit for a full 1 1/2 - 2 minutes before even moving. I'm not trying to beat the issue to death, but am mearly trying to get a better sense of how quickly it's heating up- it sounds like your's is heating MUCH quicker- I'll try to time mine the next time I'm out and post my results. Again, sorry this has become such a ROYAL PITA!

BTW, do ya have full coverage?

 

IT over heats way to fast to be anything other than no water movement.. even a bad head takes more time.. I would look closely at the water pump.

 

try running the car with the t-stat completely removed from the car.

while the t-stat is out, test it by droppng it in boiling water.

have you done the mouth to expansion tank bleed procedure??

i usually hold the little overflow hose shut while i do i

normally you can get more out bu blowing into the expansion tank, let some coolant flow before quickly tightening the bleed valve.

 

Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. I just drove it tonight. It took about 8 to 10 minutes for it to get to the red zone this time. That was all 45 to 50 mile per hour driving. I guess that bleeding helped a little. I'll keep you informed.

Christian

Robby, you have been a big help. I spreciate it much

 

Guys,

Breakthrough!! Well it isnt good but it is a serious step forward. I realized that coolant has been seeping through the plastic engine case that houses the balance and timing belt. PLus there is whining sound comming from the water pump thermostat area. Thus I just brought it back to the guys that put the new pump in (about 2 weeks ago) Maybe they Fu**ed up or something. But all know is IM NOT FU**ING payING!!!!!!!!

Christian