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Update: My car won't turn OFF! Faulty ignition switch

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Old 06-02-2003 | 11:34 PM
  #16  
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since the early is so much like the 924...have a read:

<a href="http://www.924.org/techsection/12body.htm#2" target="_blank">http://www.924.org/techsection/12body.htm#2</a> - Ignition Lock Removal/Replacement

might be something there that can help
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:10 PM
  #17  
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I would think the early 944's removal would be the same since they are the same part, but I still don't see what they are talking about. I don't see and allen bolt/screw...just a big piece of plastic shoved into metal.
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:19 PM
  #18  
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I might be help you more with this... feel free to email me at
jonnyflyboy@yahoo.com
The allen bolt is to loosen the whole steering column "attachment" (not the correct description there, but it doesn't matter) and is on the left, through a little access whole in the bottom side of the bottom of the dash as it hooks under the steering column.
I'm not sure you want to get at that though - perhaps I'm misunderstanding your goal. Are you trying to replace the metal portion of the ignition / tumbler / switch?
That plug really does just pull out. I promise, I've pulled it out many a time.
Don't hesitate to email and ask for help. I'll try my damnedest to help you out.
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:22 PM
  #19  
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Re-read your previous post:

If your wipers just started giving you trouble, I would spend some time cleaning and checking the leads in that plug - BEFORE loosening the allen bolt and disassembling the inerds of the ignition switch itself.
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:28 PM
  #20  
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Well, I already ordered a new ignition switch (just the electrical part) from Paragon since it was only $6-7. I've disconnected all of the wiper/ turnsignal stuff and also the harness that plugs into the back of the ignition switch. I was hoping I could just replace the switch and that would fix things, because I don't have a multimeter to actually test connections.
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:51 PM
  #21  
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I just did this.

But I can'nt remember the details.

The allen head bolt you are looking for is under the steering colum. Look for a hole. You will need to stick the allen wrench in the hole to get to the bolt.
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:57 PM
  #22  
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Basically you are removing the bottom part of the dash. You will leave the ignition lock in place. And reach under it and pull the switch out.

I know this is kind of vague.
Old 06-03-2003 | 03:59 PM
  #23  
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This is one time that the Haynes manual has a good write up on.
Old 06-03-2003 | 04:21 PM
  #24  
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Ok, I think I know what hole/bolt you're talking about, and I think mine's missing. I still don't see how I remove anything though...

Forgot to mention...last time I tried using the Haynes I got made and their was a torch nearby....no more Haynes!
Old 06-03-2003 | 04:29 PM
  #25  
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I can look at the manual when I get home.

Unless someone can post it before that.

It only took me 20 mins to replace the switch so it's not difficult. But I'm sure that their is one little peace of info were missing.
Old 06-03-2003 | 04:45 PM
  #26  
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I found the partialy-burnt remaining half of my Haynes manual, and they actually had a good write-up! Amazing!

Anyway, I finally got the switch out, and part of it looks like it's broken. I took out the plastic electrical piece and the ring that goes into where the key turns is cracked and slightly seperated. Is this the problem?
Old 06-03-2003 | 05:09 PM
  #27  
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This is a common problem with these plastic ignition switches. Most of the old cars will have cracks. Sometimes, the coil spring inside will break through the plastic causing problems. This plastic portion is held in with a philips screw so you can't just pull it out. I find its easier to remove the metal part of the lock then to do it by the dme. I hate being inverted looking up the dash with stuff falling on my face and being pretzeled risking putting a rip in the seat trying to get back out. Email me if you have problems and I can give you my phone number and help you thru it.
Old 06-03-2003 | 05:13 PM
  #28  
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Lego, that's what I did. The metal piece is sitting on my seat, and the plastic piece is sitting next to me. The part back by the key, the part you cannot see from behind when it's installed, is where the crack is.

Either way, hopefully the new switch from Paragon will come tommorow and that'll solve my problems.
Old 06-03-2003 | 05:44 PM
  #29  
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If this does not solve the problem you may want to find shorted wires as the ignition wire is getting power from somewhere else. I have seen the ignition part of the starter wire shorted with the main positive wire going to the starter motor causing all kinds of problems.
Old 06-05-2003 | 12:46 AM
  #30  
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I say give up, drive the car to Boston drop it off with me, I'll buy you a beer and drop you off at the airport. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

<img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> Is it Friday yet?


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