MachSchnell

I've tried what seems most logical...put a heavy drive into the 'hole' that is cast into the hub and try tapping it, but it just seems to be 'denting' the hub, and not moving that cap off at all...I need to get at the front axle nut to tighten the wheel bearings in front, but this is starting to get silly...

Anyone who's done this have a shortcut, or are these just so friggin tight that I need to bust out the hot wrench? I really don't want to put a torch on the hub or the cap, it seems soft enough and I'd rather not cook any bearings or grease, but I'm getting a hair frustrated.

Thanks

Charlotte944

I used a slide hammer on my '87. to get the cap off I hooked one of the jaws behind the lip of the cap where the hub is cut out for the Allen Wrench.

After a couple of whacks the cap moven enough to use the blade of a flat tipped screw driver to pry the cap off.

triscadek

I went at it 2 ways, 1st hit a screwdriver straight into the gap at a 90' angle when it opens the gap a bit twist it and work your way around then after you get a slight gap come at it from behind and get it the rest of the way out, it helps to have someone turn it for you while you hit it.

PeteL

I used a cold chisel and a hammer. Works like a charm.

MachSchnell

well...finally got it off, now I'm wondering exactly how tight to get these (in laymans terms)...seems like I fixed the drivers' side, but hte passenger side (despite being hand tight using an allen wrench and the rotation of the hub to bring it in) is still fidgety...how tight or loose should these be in relation to the free rotation of the hub/rotor assembly? it certainly seemed like the drivers' side hub was less inclined to spin freely, but it took that much 'tightness' to keep the wheel bearing from having some play with the wheel on...I was afraid of overtightening, and if necessary I'll loosen a bit, but dang if this isn't the most from the hip tightening procedure!

Thanks again guys,

MachSchnell

delete duplicate

Skip

Use large slip-joint pliers and wiggle.

Heat might make it worse considering the amount and type of metal objects you are dealing with.

Good Luck!

Skip

Okay, belay my last... and, congrats!

It's really a feel thing. I generally tighten it slowly while spinning the rotor - when I can feel the spinning slow considerably due to bearing bind, I back off the nut by about 1/2 turn. While you're in there, you'd be real smart to repack the bearings. Then, do the above tightening procedure, drive for a good spirited hour of so, then do it again (adjust bearing). Recheck again in 500 miles or so.

Good Luck!

MachSchnell

Ugh...does the factory manual procedure work (i.e. leaving it loose enough that the thrust washer is moveable by hand) or would this be too darn loose? Also, I presume that when they say move by hand, they're talking about movement in a perpendicular plane to the axis of the spindle...would this be accurate?

MachSchnell

Re: repacking...I plan on replacing at some point in the not too distant future, but how hard is it to get those bearings out? I though I'd have to pull the whole spindle to drive out the bearings, so I'd put repacking on the back burner...since I have to do this all again to make everything right, if it's a fairly simple procedure I'll repack, but if not, I'll hold off on that until the new ones arrive...

Skip

Once you get the caliper off and the nut off, the entire hub with bearings will come off and you can repack. There is no need to remove the bearings to repack. The best way would be to use a parts washer to clean all of the old grease out, but that's not really necessary - just wipe out as much as you can.

Replacing the front bearings is relatively easy - there are two per each hub. The front will fall out freely, then you'll need to drive out the race with a drift. The rear is standard also and will come out with the dust seal removed - then, drive out the race. A universal bearing race driver set is useful, but you can find a suitable socket or use the old bearing sets to drive in the new races - be careful that they do not go in crooked.

Skip

Skip

The factory manual procedure for the bearing taughtness is okay, but you'll find it's still a bit of a feel thing.

Skip

MachSchnell

Blech...even doing it to 'spec' there seems to be some play...particularly on the passenger side...should I assume this to be a bad bearing and race, or should I be looking in other areas such as ball joint (for some odd reason the po or ppo replaced the drivers' side ball joint and not the passenger side)...I can't detect any ball joint play with a screwdriver wedged between the control arm and spindle/strut assy, but would this be the next likely culprit for some play? If so, what are the general recommendations for replacement...I've seen the plastic replacement pieces from KLA, replacement arms with reman stuff (blazak?), and full charley arms which I suspect are overkill for my needs...given that I don't need full track capabilities, are the blazak arms the way to go?

thanks,