Relaxed90

As far as filler for small dents, or just light filler in general, I always use Evercoat.

I get mine from the local bodyshop, but you can get it from some online stores, one is: www.eastwoodco.com

You'll get different opinions on "what's the best body filler" but truthfully, the top brands are all good. BONDO brand is ok to use and there's nothing wrong with it. There are cars I know has bondo filler on shaved spots and as long as your prep work is good and the shave job is good, nothing will crack.

For small dents and dings, use very light filler/glazing putty.

Marcquito

Mark,

Thanks! That link is exactly what I needed.

Marcquito

Mark,

Any experience with Metal2Metal? Link: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=5594

So far I've read the best reviews on this stuff. Seems to be exactly what I need and I'm leaning towards this product. Would this be easy to order from a local body shop? Should I just order online?

harrisonrick

Here's a little sanding tip when using filler for a dent/ding on a big flat panel....use a long block sander by hand/machine and sand in X patterns...it helps to straighten out the area you filled.

I'll be starting the work on my euro bumper soon.

500

+1 on Evercoat. That is what I used. Try and get the metal as flat as possible with hammer and dolly and then use the glazing putty to take out any remaining imperfections. Experienced body guys (and gals) can often completely eradicate the ding in the metal and don't need to fill at all, but for amateurs like us, a thin layer of glaze is typically necessary.

This forum has been particularly good for me:

http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

As far as what and where to buy, the best approach is find an automotive refinish supply shop in your area and then see what they carry. I had originally thought I would use DuPont Chromabase, but ended up going with Glasurit products as that is what the local shop carried for high-end products. I ended up building a very good rapport with the local store and received a lot of good advice.

There are a good variety of top quality paint systems out there. The well-known quality names are Glasurit (part of BASF), Sikkens, PPG, DuPont etc. All of these manufacturers will provide very specific data sheets for each product that will tell you everything from the appropriate sanding grit for prep to the best tip size and spray pressure. I was easily able to download these as well as get them from the refinish shop. I followed all the data sheets to the letter and everything worked out just fine.

Burma Shave

Don't waste your money...nothing but hype. It is still plastic filler! Pita to sand and does nothing different. Keep your filler less than 1/4" thick and you'll be fine. We shoot for less than 1/8".Fwiw, nothing but evercoat here. We use Rage Gold and #416 glazing putty.

CurtP

I find single-stage easier to repair, but it may be the type of paint I use (PPG Concepts). I really like this paint too, because it can be used as either single-step or base coat/clear coat and is really durable. The downside is that if you don't do your wet sanding within 24 hours, you'll be sorry. My personal feeling is that if you're spraying a solid color (not a pearl or flake), use single-stage.

Another user of Evercoat here too. I also use an anti-fisheye agent.

As for guns, I really like the Iwata 100 series. Smaller gun, which is easier for me to maneuver and I really like the side-mount cup. With the side-mount, I can tilt the cup back when I'm working of horizontal surfaces, like the hood and roof and not have to worry about dripping from the cup.

hosrom_951

Sanding takes too long and dusty.

Why don't you use a paint stripper?

Apply,leave for 5-10 minutes, and just scrap it off.

Marcquito

Because a well sanded paint using the right grit can be a great primer for the new coat. So far I'm only using primer on the places I use body filler and the bumpers. At least, that's what I'm shooting for. We'll see at the end.

Marcquito

http://gallery.mac.com/marcreymon#100015

^Check the gallery, I added a bit more photos of the strip-down.

This whole project is going slow, but maybe quick for me compared to others who have done this. There are just so many little jobs and I'm the only one doing them.

In the gallery, you will see the nose-panel removal. I have been using Clark's Garage for many of my procedures, but this one reallllyyy needs a revamp on the site. This is an EARLY 944, so the nose panel removal is NO piece of cake. On Clark's (I am guessing it's Clark who is the author) he claims to simply *drill out* the spot welds and remove. He states this is needed to be done to remove the crest (which was the REAL reason for removal and I just thought I'd knock out the dents and repaint separate from the car). Ohhh I beg to differ, Clark! Not only is this thing spot welded in nearly 50 different areas, it's also *glued* onto the body and the seams are welded by the headlights. I took a few pics, but the procedure of nose panel removal is not complete. What really made me mad as I was drilling out the welds, the crest vibrated off... which defeated the purpose of removing it. I was so far into the job, there was no turning back... so I continue on...

If anyone has an early 944 nose panel, and you do not have to remove it... DON'T! It's welded to Hell and back and glued like a bitch. I've already done some slight damage on removing and it makes me slightly sick. Sure, it can be repaired, but that's just MORE work for me to do.

Whatever. I sanded the car some more, the only thing left is the door mirror removal. I did not see a write-up on Clark's or here on Rennlist. All I can come up with is how to remove the mirror from the housing. I need to remove it from the door. Any tips?

Thank's a lot!

harrisonrick

Its a PITA...BE CAREFUL when prying the mirrors away from their housings...especially if they are heated....they're 20+ years stuck together and are likely "mated" together. I cheated... When taking the mirrors off the doors I cut the wires and resoldered and heat shrinked them when I re-attached them. I broke the passenger mirror when I "popped" it out...once off there's 3 or 4 (I can't remember) 8 or 10mm bolts to undo to get the black rubber to separate from the housing. When I sprayed my mirrors I turned them so they were not as they sit while on the car and in use...that way the paint wouldn't be able to seal the joint together. I wouldn't recommend taking it apart.

They are heavier than they look too.

Ohh...on the outside, turn the mirror towards the front and get that allen key bolt...it will loosen it from the door.

Marcquito

http://gallery.mac.com/marcreymon#gallery

^More gallery pics, there's a page 2 of the "sanding and paint" album now, so don't overlook it.

You will see the end result of the nose panel removal. It was a pain in the *** and I would never do it again. Not even for a friend.

Enjoy.

xsboost90

didnt read three pages of stuff but filling holes on the aluminum bumper works well w/ some stuff called All-Metal. Its an aluminum filler that gets rock hard and since its made of aluminum it expands at the same rate-in theory - as the stuff your bumper is made of. Then you wont have shrink lines down the road from the bondo stretching under the paint. I use it to seal up welds before bodywork sometimes and it adds strength. Invest in a gallon of good eurethane hi-fil primer and dont paint it until its straight and wetsanded w/ 500grit wetdry sandpaper all over to make the paint stick.

xsboost90

oh and i would have the braket tig welded on if you shave those rivets since that is some of the structure holding your bumper on there...so you could just have the holes welded up at the same time.

Burma Shave

Fisheyes aren't a problem with basecoat, and fisheye eliminator when used for no reason causes contamination. Fisheye eliminator = silicone. It was popular 15-20 years ago when singlestage was commonly used. Hardly necessary nowadays, I won't let it near my paint shop.