fuel rail patch job
05-03-2008, 03:49 PM
#1
Cast Iron Man
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fuel rail patch job
I'm fairly please at how it turned out. My only concern is the carbon build up where the injector seats. Anyway to clean it without scratching it all up? Or will it be fine?
05-05-2008, 08:48 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Location: St Louis, Missouri, USA
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Lookin good. I'm guessing you have been working with a plumbers torch. I would clean it up with may some of the little wire cone wheel that comes as dremel attachment. Keep us posted...Bruce
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05-06-2008, 01:28 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Yikes, please tell me that's not JB weld. Also why would there be carbon buildup there? Probably just good old corrosion and even if cleaned up there is probably pitting that could cause a leak. Nice that you "fixed" it yourself but as others mentioned, it's really not worth the risk.
05-06-2008, 01:58 PM
#9
Cast Iron Man
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I need to get one of your timing belt kits. I just don't seem to have a lot of time to turn wrenches lately.
I may do that.
Yikes, please tell me that's not JB weld. Also why would there be carbon buildup there? Probably just good old corrosion and even if cleaned up there is probably pitting that could cause a leak. Nice that you "fixed" it yourself but as others mentioned, it's really not worth the risk.
For all the flamers let me just say this. I'm not doing this to cut corners or take the cheap way out. I could get another rail or go the Lindesy route. I have done a bit of research and feel that these can be repaired safely. I have talked to a few that have gone many years on a repaired rail with no issues.
Based on my failure rate I suspect that there are a many driving around with leaky rails and don't even know it. I'm going to give it a try monitor it closely.
05-06-2008, 02:08 PM
#11
Cast Iron Man
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05-06-2008, 10:39 PM
#12
RL Community Team
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"Flamer" is such an appropriate word too, considering the topic...
I think you'll be fine, and I agree that fixing an old rail is a better idea than buying another old rail. But why not weld it?
I think you'll be fine, and I agree that fixing an old rail is a better idea than buying another old rail. But why not weld it?
05-06-2008, 10:58 PM
#13
Cast Iron Man
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The crack was located in the groove where the injector seat was pressed into the rail. And it was located between there and the support. The shop said that it was impossible to get a rod in the space and an angle where they could assure the crack was filled. So they determined that silver brazing would be the best technique and it would also flow in and around assuring that the crack was completely sealed.
Also from what I've researched on the net the silver solder used in with this technique has a high melting point (800F) and can flow into very small gaps.
From wiki:
Also from what I've researched on the net the silver solder used in with this technique has a high melting point (800F) and can flow into very small gaps.
From wiki:
If silver alloy is used, brazing can be referred to as 'silver brazing'. Colloquially, the inaccurate terms "silver soldering" or "hard soldering" are used, to distinguish from the process of low temperature soldering that is done with solder having a melting point below 450 °C (842 °F), or, as traditionally defined in the United States, having a melting point below 800°F or 425°C. Silver brazing is similar to soldering but higher temperatures are used and the filler metal has a significantly different composition and higher melting point than solder. Silver brazing requires a gap not greater than a few micrometres or mils for proper capillary action during joining of parts. (Soldering also uses capillary action to fill small spaces, although the need for small gap distances may be less critical than in brazing.) This often requires parts to be silver brazed to be machined to close tolerances.
Brazing is widely used in the tool industry to fasten hardmetal (carbide, ceramics, cermet, and similar) tips to tools such as saw blades. “Pretinning” is often done: the braze alloy is melted onto the hardmetal tip, which is placed next to the steel and remelted. Pretinning gets around the problem that hardmetals are hard to wet.
Brazed hardmetal joints are typically two thousandths to seven thousandths of an inch thick. The braze alloy joins the materials and compensates for the difference in their expansion rates. In addition it provides a cushion between the hard carbide tip and the hard steel which softens impact and prevents tip loss and damage, much as the suspension on a vehicle helps prevent damage to both the tires and the vehicle. Finally the braze alloy joins the other two materials to create a composite structure, much as layers of wood and glue create plywood.
The standard for braze joint strength in many industries is a joint that is stronger than either base material, so that when under stress, one or other of the base materials fails before the joint fails.
Nickel-Silver: Usually with blue flux coating. 600 MPa (85,000 psi) tensile strength, 680 - 950°C (1250-1750°F) working temperature. Used for carbon and alloy steels and most metals not including aluminum.
Brazing is widely used in the tool industry to fasten hardmetal (carbide, ceramics, cermet, and similar) tips to tools such as saw blades. “Pretinning” is often done: the braze alloy is melted onto the hardmetal tip, which is placed next to the steel and remelted. Pretinning gets around the problem that hardmetals are hard to wet.
Brazed hardmetal joints are typically two thousandths to seven thousandths of an inch thick. The braze alloy joins the materials and compensates for the difference in their expansion rates. In addition it provides a cushion between the hard carbide tip and the hard steel which softens impact and prevents tip loss and damage, much as the suspension on a vehicle helps prevent damage to both the tires and the vehicle. Finally the braze alloy joins the other two materials to create a composite structure, much as layers of wood and glue create plywood.
The standard for braze joint strength in many industries is a joint that is stronger than either base material, so that when under stress, one or other of the base materials fails before the joint fails.
Nickel-Silver: Usually with blue flux coating. 600 MPa (85,000 psi) tensile strength, 680 - 950°C (1250-1750°F) working temperature. Used for carbon and alloy steels and most metals not including aluminum.
