Jay W

Maybe the oil is coming from higher up on the engine. It then would drip down, then off the oil pan making that appear to be the problem. Since you already have a mess on the floor to clean up, get some engine cleaner and hose off the engine to get all the oil off it (and the floor), let it dry and run the engine an watch to see where the source of the leak is. Its practically impossible to spot the true source of a leak when the whole bottom of the engine is covered from a major leak while driving. Good luck and hopefully it is a simple item. Those oil pressure switches can dump an incredible amount of oil out, just like Bryan noted

Jay W

The oilpan is not under oil system pressure but IS under crankcase pressure which could build up from piston blowby (sp?) and push out the oil pan seal. I have seen this happen on other kinds of cars. You can start the engine and pull off the oil filler cap and watch for alot of pressure release there (looks like an old train steam engine smoke stack). There is a small amount of this on a normal engine, but steam engine puffing is a sign of excessive blowby...

Graufuchs

Check the gasket in the rear of the cam housing those bolts can loosen up overtime and they drip directly on the exhuast!!! Could be a quick fix!!-chris

Chris_924s

Thanks- I had a lot to do today- none of it Porsche related. and garage is so full right now I cant even GET to the car (lots of auctions yesterday). Just as well- kept my mind off of it. I will closely watch ALL of the suggestions- and see if I cant determine precisely where the leak is coming from.. A while ago someone posted a PET page with the entire oil cooling system. Illustration # 104-00 Is there anyway I can get a complete parts listing? i only have Parts numbered from 1-10a . I'm looking for the part numbers 11-52 as listed on the PET illustration. Thanks all- I'll keep you posted!!
You cats are the BEST!

Jamie944

Did you do an oil change in the last day or two while cleaning or getting ready for tweaks? Sometimes when you change the oil the old seal will stick to the block from the filter. If you don't check for it and put on a new filter you have just double gasketed your filter. You will get one heck of and oil leak. If it isn't to tight it will blow the filter off the car. The oil seals are also a very good possibility. Try all the simple stuff first. You might get a nice surprise and an easy fix. Also I would change the filter just incase. you could have a single gasket that has failed. or I have even seen new filters with holes in them. Well good luck.

Devia

Jamie, that sounds like a good one!

- Julie

Chris_924s

I noticed this when i took off the J tube..
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/oilphoto3.jpg" alt=" - " />
I can insert the tip of a screwdriver to about a depth of 1/2 an inch without any force (approx a 1/4" gap from the oilpan gasket to its mating surface.
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/oilphoto4.jpg" alt=" - " />
Same photo- but. 1.) I have no oil present above the bold red line. 2.)Oil is pooling in the green outlined areas. 3.)Finger pointing to bolt.. white line points to where 4th bolt is completely missing. 4. pink shows gap in oil pan gasket..
This doesnt look normal does it?
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/oilphoto2.jpg" alt=" - " />

Is there a good way to start it and keep it running without the J tube on?

F18Rep

I had pooling in that area too, traced my leak to the rear of the driver's side balance shaft. There is an aluminum cap with a rubber seal around it and mine was loose due to bad seal. Can you wiggle your cap? My new ones are very tight. Also my seals for the oil seperator (filler) were shot. Might have been caused from an overheat event. Can't make those failures fit your sudden oil leak situation though. These (filler seals)can be replaced fairly easily (remove intake).
As for the screwdriver test, it does SEEM wrong but still I'm not sure that is a valid test. There are small aluminum spacers in each of the oil pan bolt holes (part of the gasket) that (I suppose) protect from over-torquing the pan. They might explain why the gasket seems loose. I would point to some pics but my server is down.

One last idea, my PO records indicate that this sort of thing happened to my car a few years ago. The mech evidently replaced the oil pressure regulator, it would be easy for you to remove and check it. Seems like people have mentioned from time to time that they do occassionally stick, providing the max pressure. Just an idea.

Chris_924s

well- after finally gaining "conmfortable" access under the engine, I have determined at least 1 of the sources.. It seems I am missing several bolts from the oil pan- I was able to push the oil pan up and compress the gasket by HAND!

this brings up a few questions.. I have the torque sequence and specs for the oil pan, but does anyone have a list of which size bolt goes where?? I know there aare 3 different sizes on the oil pan but without the shop manual I'm stuck.

SO FIRST AND FOREMOST.. I need a parts list of oil pan bolts, and locations.

Now the "you might as well" stuff-
I was thinking of using loctite blue on the bolt threads, should I use a sealant on the oilpan gasket- I've heard yes and no from different sources- and if yes which one. (In Clarks garage they list the stuff at 100$ a tube!!)This will not be a permanaent solution, but I need it roadworthy for a few months- and considering the amount I travel possibly several thousands of miles.

or.. should I just bite the bullet, drop the crossmember, new gasket and rod bearings. yadda yadda. yadda.. (I had planned on doing this during the winter in a much warmer climate.. )

Chris_924s

bump.. I need oil pan bolts asap.. Will start new thread..