Calmchaos

To crimp the wires I used a combination of needle nose pliers, and a Vice Grips crimp too I got from pep boys. As long as the connection to the pin is good, and you can't pull it off the wire it will be fine.
Is the crimp just not pretty? Or can you pull the pin off the wire?


And no, I did not use the wire seals.
But.... I have been thinking about getting some. Wouldn't be a hassle to put them on after the fact.

Dare

In my case, the crimping tool is just a little too big for the terminals, so it tends to push the flaps out to the sides, rather than curl them over and into the wire strands like the factory crimps. Half the time I can pull the wire out of the crimp. And even when I can’t it looks like the contact area is very small, with lots of air gaps. (As I understand it, a good crimp is air tight with lots of contact area).

Although people say not to do it, I’ve been placing a small amount of solder on the joint to improve the connectivity and seal. Since I’m also using the seals which crimp on past the joint and help support the wire, my hope is that joint fatigue won’t really be a problem.

Here’s a picture of some of my joints:

Calmchaos

Yeah I would describe my crimp as air tight and with much contact area. I would tug very hard after I crimped and the wires would not budge.
Also... it seems odd that you crimped OVER the seal... Is that correct? I'm not sure as I didn't use them. But I would think the seal would slide over the crimp.

If you're not sure if your conductivity is good, you could always test with a multimeter.
I would make the crimp, then abuse the wire a bit, then test continuity between the tip of the pin and the other end of the wire.

marky522

We have a Porsche tool that will crimp both portions at the same time, and the previous comment about the seal is correct, it should be slid over after the crimp is made.

Mark

Dare

Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find any installation instructions for Tyco’s Junior Timer connectors. However the following document describes the installation of their Sealed Sensor Connectors which have a very similar terminal design.

http://outpost.toaster.com/AMPSealedSensorConnector.pdf (The original source for this document is here. However their server appears to be broken).

The document says that the wire seal must be placed on the end of the wire prior to termination, and shows the second set of crimp tabs (the long ones at the back of the terminal) wrapping around the wire seal (figure 3). Because the inside diameter of the seals are sized to the OD of the wire insulation (presumably to ensure a tight seal) I’ve found I have to put the seals on the wire before I strip it, otherwise I end up bending or breaking the strands of the wire.

Although it’s been a long time since I talked to him, I believe I also heard the same information from Robert at KayJay Co. where I purchased the connectors.

Do you know the part number for this tool? I bet it’s expensive.

Calmchaos

MY HARNESS WORKS!!!!!!!!!
Pictures coming soon!

FRporscheman

If you make some to sell I will buy one.

Calmchaos

I haven't completely managed the wires yet but almost.
The fluid on the engine is water.
But anyway.... here are the pictures with the harness in the engine bay.

I'll sleeve the fuel lines when I get some red plug wires, so the engine has a nice black/red look.


And Arash, I think that the process takes too long for me to make anything at a reasonable price. I'm not sure, but I think that the harness materials cost me ~$200, but it took me over a week to get it all done.

porschefig

I'm bumping this to say good job! This is a great thread with sources and details, ect.
..and so I can find it again easily!
I have a spare 951 harness that I want to do this to.. when I have time.... This, in addition to my IceShark grounding cables, should get rid of lots of headaches! (hard, brittle wires, and poor signals for MAF, etc.)