theedge

Youre welcome, let me know if you have any other questions.

If youre replacing the 12 pin "block" connector by the brake booster one or two of those wires need to be a thicker gauge, id have to look up which ones.

Calmchaos

I was going to reuse the casing and buy new pins (from pelican). So yeah, I was going to rewire that too.

And mine only has 11 pins in it.

theedge

Godo plan. For the Sure Seal connectors (used for the O2 sensor, fuel pump, and all over for headlights and such) the new pins are available from www.e-sonic.com

030-2196-001 and 031-1267-001 are the part numbers.

aribop

It's just a tight fit. I rolled the boot back and tugged and pulled until that sucker came off. Inside the boot is that big piece of shrink wrap that has glue inside holding the entire wire bundle together. Just cut carefully in order to separate all the wires.

Calmchaos

Awsome, thanks for the info!

Calmchaos

Hey,
Would braided sleeving protect the wires from the heat? I'm thinking it won't because of the opening in the weave.
I'm about to just go with the sleeve Aribop used even though I don't think it really gets small enough for my liking.
But I DO like the 1200° and the ability to have it in red.

theedge

Braided sleeving wouldnt no, youd have to go with some of the thicker fiberglass stuff.

If you go with the Automotive grade wire, or even better mil spec Tefzel wire you dont really need heat protection per se.

Calmchaos

Well I am going to use TXL automotive wire which says 105°C continuous. I'll scrap the braided idea.
I was going to use http://www.keefeperformance.com/kp1200.html .
Does that look like it will handle the engine conditions?

theedge

It would yes, but overkill for an N/A for the most part.

Calmchaos

Yeah... it may be. But it's not expensive and I can get it in red

Calmchaos

Ok, today I went out there and removed all the old sleeving from the old harness.
It looks kinda crazy, but it's no big deal really.

I have a couple questions about a few of the connectors though.
1) What is the red one in the picture?

2) There is a circular, rubber connector that sits behind the drivers side strut. It has three wires that run to it, but it has never been plugged into anything. What exactly does this do? Can I just leave it out?

Thanks.

theedge

Red connector has wires that lead to the gauge cluster. The black/green wire is the tach signal from the DME. The other one is for the MPG gauge.

That round rubber connector is a diagnostic port. It can be used if you have idle problems, so id wire it in but leave the wires inside the car. No need to bother running them to the engine bay.

Mamooguy

Thinking about doing this makes my sphincter do unpleasant things.

500

Laying out the old harness on a sheet of plywood can really help organize things:

Calmchaos

Couple updates so you guys know I didn't poop out on this.
I spent all day tracking down wires, crimping AMP pins, and soldering... ect.
I made all the wires that come directly out of the DME, except for 2, because I found that the large wire that goes into the O2 sensor is shielded; which I did not know. So I will need to order some 14AWG shielded wire.
What I noticed is that the shielded wire only goes to one pin at the O2 end. So... where does the shielding terminate? Anyone know? I see where it goes into the DME connector clearly.
Something makes me think this wire doesn't need to be shielded at all...

After I get all the wires made I will organize the wires with the heat wrap, then I will put the connectors on the ends. Then I'll hopefully be done... after I check continuity, and all that mess.

I didn't run into any big scary problems yet. And I'm feeling quite confident about the whole thing.

BTW whoever (or whomever... idk) came up with adhesive-lined heatshrink is my hero. It is the best stuff on earth!