knfeparty

Well my usual photographer wasn't there so I don't really have many pictures.

These were 2 slow runs- the 4th run (which the camera cut off for ) was almost 2 seconds faster. I've been driving the BMW too much; I forgot that you have to really drive the Porsche hard! So I apologize for the crappy driving.
Last run got me 14th pax overall finish; I won my class.

street tires
http://www.duke.edu/~wag/street%20tires%20run2.wmv

BFG Gforce Race tires (cold)
http://www.duke.edu/~wag/racecoldrun3.wmv

Street tires (you can tell by the 15" w/ centercaps)
http://photos.kestrelracing.com/p/po...es_0_c5h809941
http://photos.kestrelracing.com/p/po...810242#photo_s

Coming up to the line with the 16" and race tires:

hockeydude

nice!

67rschev

Nice
We have similar car set ups with the M030 option with hieght adj fronts , 26.8 , 18 , and 25.5 torsions.

I saw your previous posts about your set up . I set ride hieght at 12 3/4 inch from center of hub to fender lip and seems to be about perfect after 1 autocross . My question for ya is if you have ever run the Kumho 710s . With my M030s i am able to get -3 1/4 up front camber which was perfect for the worn out old Hoosiers , but the Kumhos say - 1 1/2 camber . Any experience with these tires ? They are brand new so i dont want to hurt them with too much negative camber . I am past level on the lower control arm , so i know my - camber will decrease as the suspension is compressed .

We have 21 cars in e stock this week end , and i sure would like to bust into the top 3 . 920 points last event with a 5th out of 17 so i was in the trophies . I sure would like to get a leg up on these damn Japanese 2 seaters .....

knfeparty

Wow I wish there were 21 people in ES. Only class with over 20 people here is usually novice (only sometimes, like when the ricey s2000 club came out) or STS. There's usually about 3 people in ES.

I was "only" able to get 2.7 degrees, and I have the collars all the way down on the struts. I think the control arms are also a bit past level. I don't know what the ride height is other than as low as it'll go.

I've seen those crazy new kumhos and since I don't know of anyone who has run them, you might want to stick to the manual. I hate to tell you, but I'm pretty sure the reason they have those new sidewalls is for camber-challenged cars (like BMWs and crossfires, which eat the outside of hoosiers in about 10 runs), so if you got the new style I think it might have been a mistake. It's also possible that the manual says that to make people with camber-challenged cars feel better. Only race tires I've run is BFG Gforce R1, which I really like. Sorry I can't help you more. My gf's dad (read: BMW & tire NERD) was going to get some but they're on backorder. So I'll be able to post more about them when he does get them.

My advice is to keep an eye on wear patterns and hit the tire with a temp gauge to see what the temp difference across the tread face is. I somehow don't see how "too much camber" and "stock class autocross" can possibly belong in the same thought.

And one more thing- I ran 2 warm-up runs on street tires, and the pressures I normally run was WAY too much with the added camber. I dropped 3 psi on all four corners and it felt better. It felt like I could have probably run about 33-4 psi cold all the way around (instead of the usual 37 or so).

67rschev

I am the early m030 , a-arm , and spindle so that might account for the added - camber . All so my front springs are softer , as i am showing around 1 1/4 inch of thread left on the front spring adjusters .

I was running like 34 front and 38 rear before the install of the m030 goodies . Now the car is WAY tighter with a prety good throttle push . I wound up around 33 f and 34 rear to try to loosen the car up last event . Gonna take some of the toe-in in the rear , out tonight to try to help .

Ill let ya know what i think of the 710s . Was on some juiced A6 s , but they have about 0 tread depth , and was holding my breath hoping they wouldn't show cord last event .

knfeparty

To get your money's worth out of A6s, you gotta run 'em until some chord shows on the outside, then flip 'em and run 'em some more. When you say juiced, you mean traction compound? I'm pretty sure that falls into the same category as tire warmers...definitely not legal for stock class.

You're probably right about the camber difference. I used to run .7* of rear toe-in and it was great. Now I'm running about .1 and it's a handful. I think my rear rebound dampening might be way off, though (check the second professional picture- rear end in the air).

It's amazing how the LSD will close the radius of your turns as you apply throttle. I'm so used to pushing out with more gas, but the LSD works magic!

67rschev

Juice is a little bit taboo , but it is totally legal , and it works well on R compounds . No real benefit on Street tires all though Ive never tried on hard rubber ......

I have a LSD carrier and a trans for it to go into , just need more time and less girlfriend trying to take that time . I figured it would REALLY tighten the car up going in , but would make up for it coming off ......

michel944

Question for both of you : next week preparation of my car for the season will take place and then the alignment....I'm keeping the stock, non-koni, non-adjustable shocks, so is there any neg. camber to get ?

TheRealLefty

....as much negative camber as your adjusters allow!

With early offset aluminum arms, you generally can't get much more in the front than -1.75 to - 2 degrees. -2 +/- all around is a decent setting, not quite ideal for R Compounds, but much better than stock settings. On an NA track/autox car we run 225/45 A6 Hoosiers all around on 15x8 Fuchs. The extra 1/2 inch of front track (10.6 mm offset vs 23 mm for OE 15x7's) works wonders. I tried 7/8 16's with 245's in the rear a couple seasons ago and the car was horrible. NA's don't need that much rear rubber and push like the dickens with meaty rears.

Without LSD, we get around just fine with 26.8 mm M030 sway in the front with delrin pushings and 968 camber blocks, 19mm adjustable in the rear with spherical bearing drop links and billet delrin mounts. Only running 200# springs in the front, dropped 1" overall. Softer nose is better for autoX, IMO.

michel944

Thanks Lefty, you make my day ! I was afraid I wouldn't get any negative camber from it...I have a Weltmeister front bar ready to install and I will run Hoosier A6's in 225/45-15. The new sway bar should help make the tires work !

marky522

Hey Ash, if you can leave the car again for a few days i can fix that toe in the rear issue. and your ride height is 24.5" i believe from ground to wheel well... I think...

Mark

67rschev

+1 .... if you are running the A6 s , they will really like all the negative you can give them and they are designed for it . I had NO abnormal shoulder wear on the 44 , and was running -2.3 with the stock strut bodies . I would have bought another set , but thought i would give the Kumhos a try , and they were over 120 bucks cheaper for the set .

With running the big az front bar only , you might have one hell of a push . Might have to loosen the car up with air pressures or rear camber / toe adjustments .

michel944

I read you there 67, my car came with option 404 (front/rear bars) so I have a 14mm bar in the back. My guess would be to run let's say -2.0 front with -1.0 instead of -2.0 in the back and then some rear toe in. Right ?

knfeparty

The deal with rear toe is that as the back end unloads, it flexes towards toe out (unstable). So if you don't put in enough rear toe in, then every time you lift off the gas the back end will start to rotate. This can be great on a tight course if you know what you're doing. Rear dampening impacts this too. Putting in too much rear toe will make the car too stable and it'll push a bunch again. michel, if you put in -.2* of rear toe, I think the car will be loose enough for you, but you can run in between 0 and -.1 if you're feeling adventurous. The videos have -.1ish rear toe, 2.7* camber all around, m030 option struts/tbars, 26.8mm front sway, and 20mm rear sway. I used to have 25.5/18mm sways and I honestly can't tell much of a difference.

67rschev

I would agree . Throttle induced oversteer can be very helpfull in an autocross . " let off the throttle , the car rotates , then back into the throttle . 1/4 inch toe in i would feel would be to mush for your big front bar . I would try a very slight toe in or strait up in the rear , with a slight toe out in the front to help turn-in .