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track/race car-want to eliminate emissions and electrical

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Old 04-13-2008, 05:08 PM
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mjensen
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Default track/race car-want to eliminate emissions and electrical

I am installing a N/A race engine in a turbo tub. I want to know if there is any info out there on running the bare-minimum engine and emission items. Does anybody have diagrams or info on how to eliminate emission related items.
1.ISV delete, plug ports, possible rough cold idle
2.Charcoal can delete-plug vacuum and fuel ports
3.eliminate any/extras not needed
4.Wish to make all electrical items, such as wipers, fuel pump, etc. manual switches with independant fuse block.
Old 04-13-2008, 05:29 PM
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Spidey944
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The EVAP delete is easy as pie. A few on here, including myself, have removed the char. cannister, and the purge valves with no issues at all, and no fuel smells. Here is a pic of my delete for now. I have het to remove the entire line that runs to the tank, so I installed a ricer filter I found at Advanced Auto until I get around to removing the whole line. Then the filter can be moved to the line right off the tank connection.

Here is my thread asking about it. Weight loss came in at 7 pounds or so.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=evap+removal
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:40 PM
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mjensen
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Thanks Doug! I followed the link and this will help out alot!
Old 04-14-2008, 12:52 PM
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M758
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don't delete the ISV.
The savings are not worth the hassle of crappy cold idle.
Old 04-14-2008, 02:35 PM
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schwank
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I have things pretty much as spideyslave has them. Deleted the canister and vacuum valve. I too put a cheap filter from the FLAPS on the hose... but I bought a new hose and just ran it back out into the fender well where the canister was to begin with.
Old 04-14-2008, 04:36 PM
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MAGK944
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Default I did it this way:

Venturi, emissions, cruise, power steering, all deleted (86na):


Fuel tank vent hose fed to AFM adapter:


Another view of fuel tank vent hose


LR oil catch tank


Mike
Old 04-14-2008, 07:45 PM
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mjensen
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Joe,
Thanks for the input. Mike I like the clean engine bay.
Old 04-14-2008, 10:27 PM
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MAGK944
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Thanks, this one has become my daily driver now, just wish I could delete the a/c and make things even less complicated, but this is Florida and that is not an option.

Mike
Old 04-14-2008, 11:05 PM
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schwank
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Actually might as well piggyback this thread. I am within a few minutes of hitting the go button on my car for the first time in many months. Got all the emergency cutoff wiring done as well as the evap mod as posted above. Many many other things in the off season on the way to now being a real race car.

When you remove the evap vacuum switch, there is a vacuum hose from the switch at the back of the motor. What happens to this hose... just cap it off at the switch under the rear of the intake?

Same question with the other hose that leads to the metal elbow at the j pipe... just cap this off?

That's what I did... figure I might as well double check before blowing the thing up.
Old 04-15-2008, 12:20 AM
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I've removed both pipes off the thermo switch, left it uncapped and capped the lines running back to the j-pipe.
Old 04-15-2008, 12:30 AM
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+1 just cap everything off, I also just ran the brake vacuum straight to the manifold and did a venturi delete at the same time. You are basically left with two simple vacuum lines, one to the brake and one to the frp/damper. You also have the two for the ISV, that is unless you delete that as well, but this is not advisable for a road car.
Old 04-15-2008, 10:15 PM
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mjensen
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What would be the disadvantage of deleting the ISV on a track only car? Cold start. rough idle? I would like to run as little as possible, especially since this is mounted below the intake. I recall running my 951 race car with out it and the cold start shudder was minimal. Is this true on a n/a?
Old 04-15-2008, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mjensen
What would be the disadvantage of deleting the ISV on a track only car? Cold start. rough idle? I would like to run as little as possible, especially since this is mounted below the intake. I recall running my 951 race car with out it and the cold start shudder was minimal. Is this true on a n/a?
You can test to see if the idle is acceptable with an ISV delete, you can bypass the ISV by installing the jumper between terminals B and C of the diagnostic plug.



You will find that it is ok for a track car, and is one less thing to go wrong or leak, but for a road car IMO I would leave alone.
Old 04-16-2008, 11:37 AM
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M758
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I leave it on my track car because cold idle is an important part of the way I used my race car. I often will let it idle when cold just to warm things up. I perfer to have a nice steady idle as it is then easier to tell if something is going wrong in the motor. This the same reason I run a stock muffler. I have a straight pipe, but that make so much noise at idle that is just not pleasant to listen to for 5-10 mintues each morning.



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