mike10562004

is that right?

Po924S

Omg this is fcking sick!!!!!!!!! I soooo want to do this with my car. How do you think I could make it look like a factory install? Nice and clean and everything you know..... in a late interior. Gawd this is awesome! Lol.

Darwantae951

Wow, I should call Campeck, haven't talked to him in a while.

North Coast Cab

You should have been a welder.

ncsugray90

this looks sweet, except for the fact that someone could bust open your window and drive your car away. What kinda things could you do to have a little more security without completely defeating the purpose of keyless ignition?

krystar

u can have an extra hidden switch......or have a security keypad or a rfid fob reader

yea whatever happened to campeck? he like disappeared off face of the earth.

Darwantae951

Campeck has moved on and his dad (Aribop) now dabbles in 993s.

MN

Instead of a physical push button start, what about a virtual push button start, e.g. as an iPhone/iPod app?

As far as I know, right now only VIPER SMARTSTART (www.viper.com/SmartStart/iPhone/) offers virtual push button (as part of a "remote start" feature) but also requires an annual service plan since it uses cellular services for that feature.

A virtual push button start via Bluetooth and/or the iPhone dock connector, therefore not requiring a cellular receiver/transmitter in the car; ... any iPhone app programmer on Rennlist?

MN

Campeck

I'm Still here. And yes, you should call me sometime!

And that second schematic does seem to be a better representation of what I was trying to convey. lol

Darwantae951

Dude, I tried calling you the other day! Has your number changed?

Mister Quickie

I'm confused, why both a push button and a toggle?

There's only three positions, off, acc, start (start with a conventional key ignition "flips" back to acc once engine started), right?

So wouldn't the solution be a three-position switch where default is off, next position is acc, and third position is start and once the engine fires up, switch it back to acc, right?

I'm trying to do this myself and this diagram is close. Unless the toggle in your diagram is only a two-way which turns the acc on/off and the start is just to start then it "flips" back to off ...

RoyaleWithCheese

Bringing this thread back to hopefully get some clarification for early cars which appear to have 2 additional wires compared to the posted diagrams.

Here is how I wired my early car and it is cranking but is acting like it's getting no fuel which makes me think the signal to the fuel pump or DME isn't happening when the acc switch is on.



There is one additional black/yellow wire and one more plain black wire that is smaller than the other black wire.

Right now I have the other black/yellow wire hooked up but not the thin black wire which I intend on hooking up to test tonight.

Can anyone provide any insight on what wire controls what in an early car before I continue?

Van

Nothing on your diagram is labeled... But maybe I can shed some light on this.

For the push-button switch for the starter, this has to be medium gauge wire. Not as heavy as a battery cable, but heavier than any other wire under the dash. If you've ever changed a starer, we're talking about the small wire. Anyhow, your push button should just be from the battery (or fuse block) and to the starter solenoid - it will also have a lead that goes to the DME. Look at a DME plug diagram, and you'll see there is a "starter" wire. There should be other other switches or components in this circuit.

Next, you need some sort of ignition switch - a toggle switch or something works fine. This is to supply power to the DME - this can either be through a relay or just a toggle switch that can handle 15 amps. The factory wiring used the key switch to activate the first half of the DME relay.

Once the DME gets power *and* knows the starter is activated, it will then "ground out" the second half of the DME relay which will then activate the fuel pump. It's best to have the fuel pump activated by a relay switched by the DME - this way, if the engine ever cuts off, like in an accident, the fuel pump will also shut off.

I realize I haven't exactly answered your question... Perhaps learning how to read the wiring diagram will be useful to you:

NM'87 951

So which one of you computer geeks is working on a finger print scanner version of the jumpered connection?

RoyaleWithCheese

Thanks! I had no idea how to read those and that will be a huge help in diagnosing this issue.

I can't seem to find an online source for early wiring diagrams though, only late. I found the early flow diagrams on pelican here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/elec...l_diagrams.htm

The issue is that the ignition lies in between the two pages in part 4 so I can't see where some of the wires are going.

I did manage to get the car turning and firing now but it refuses to stay running once it fires.

Does anyone have a source for early diagrams online or that they could email me? It might be time I buy a manual.