shiners780

AFAIK it'll keep running off alternator power.

Campeck

ok then. Im going to go outside and start the car. then pull the power. brb...

well Im still alive so thats good. And yes. the car continues to run even with the positive or negative off.
but then again the only reason i want a cutoff switch with removable key is so I can disable the car since I have a pushbutton start. And you cant turn the car on with no battery!

Scootin159

You are going to bring that roadster to 944-fest, right? It reminds me of those cutaway posters...

Campeck

unfortunately Ill be in europe at the time.

schwank

Wanted to dig this one back up. Got my OG six pole switch today. I have 10 feet of 1 gauge cable and some ends. I also have the short 1g cable for the run from the battery to the switch, premade with one mil-spec and one eye end.

My two questions then:

1) What exactly is the wire labled 'Car Wiring'? This is the bundle of red (+) wires that 'used' to run to the battery - the main car power and the starter cable? I am replacing the wiring to the starter with new cable. Somehow I'll have to connect the smaller red wires running to the fuse box.

2) I am placing this switch in the area where the cruise control servo was originally located. Since the coil wire is part of the main bundle that runs up the driver side and across the front... would I not just tap in and run a wire from that harness to the switch and back to the coil to make a connection?

I have to nail this out by this weekend and get the car running.. Also I guess is there one solder I should use over others for the cable ends? I think I would like to do this in addition to the crimp.

shiners780

1) Yes, what I labeled as "car wiring" is what you described.
2) Tapping the coil wire at the coil itself is probably the easiest way to do it for your switch mounting location. Since I am going to mount my switch in the cowl area on the driver's side, I will tap the coil wire at the fuse box to reduce the amount of wiring needed.

How'd you get your order so quick?! I placed an order Monday morning, and still nothing...

schwank

Thanks Jim. I also placed the order first thing monday morning but paid for 2 day shipping. I have to get my car running by this weekend as next week it goes to one shop to have the cage fixed and then another for an alignment. Might try to squeeze a visit to the exhaust shop in as well. Then final prep for competition school two weeks from tomorrow.

My local NAPA has all sorts of quality battery cable and ends in 1 gauge. Bulk cable was about $4/ft. Now if I can just figure out how to crimp them... my weak computer programmer hands just can't do it. I wanted to keep that switch where the CC was as I'd rather have the shorter run of battery cable. I'm going to run a pull cable to over on the cowl in front of the driver's window.

JerryW

If you have a West Marine anywhere near you they can do the custom battery cable ends. Or they sell a device to crimp your own ends.

shiners780

Auto Zone has 19" 2 gauge cables with loop ends (not sure what they're called) on each end for about $7. Different lengths too if needed. That's what I am going to use. One end bolts right to the battery, other end bolts directly to the switch. Then on the second one one end bolts directly to the switch, the other end bolts to the positive car wiring bundle. Might be easier than crimping or soldering ends on.

edit: OG's online ordering system lost my order, had to place another today by phone.

PorscheDoc

Does anyone know the size of the resistor offhand?

shiners780

In my online searches I came across 3 ohm 11 watt. But that's just what I read online...

I don't have the actual resistor from OG in front of me yet, so trust this info at your own risk...

schwank

Yep... that sounds right from the one I was looking at last night. As can be seen in the article on the 944 spec howto site, it is a white rectangular box resistor.

jpk

I used to make up battery cable ends all the time. You need a propane torch, some solder, paste flux, and a vise. Regular plumbing solder and flux will work.
Put the terminal end to solder on in the vise, put flux on the end of the stripped cable, start heating the terminal end with the torch and fill the cup with molten solder, then just plunge the cable into the end (gloves and long garmets are recommended here because there will be some splatter of hot solder)
Then, keep the heat on untill you see the solder just start to draw up into the wire. Remove the heat, hold it still for a few seconds as it cools and you're done. I'd usually then give it a good whack with a hammer to get a bit of a physical crimp as well.

schwank

That's pretty much what I'm going to do John. Got most of it wired up tonite actually. I put a bit of a crimp in the 1 gauge connector but it's not enough to hold it on. No choice but to solder I think. My weak computer programmer hands just can't crimp it enough. Would rather have the extra insurance anyway.

That's my last question then: With this switch setup interrupting the coil, I just leave the wiring between the starter and alterator as is right??? It doesn't need to be wired into the switch... just the starter wire?

And Doc... I too had read something about 11W resistor somewhere but the actual piece is marked 10W.

JerryW

Yes. All the wires that used to go on the battery terminal go to the large terminal on the switch. Then use the small terminals to interrupt the coil wire and you are done.