Need track alignment specs for a 944, no camber plates.
03-04-2008, 04:00 PM
#1
Drifting
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Need track alignment specs for a 944, no camber plates.
I'm hitting the track this weekend (Summit Point) and want to get a good track alignment. I can get at least 2 degrees negative camber with my current setup.
What's a good track setup that is tolerable for limited street use???
What's a good track setup that is tolerable for limited street use???
03-04-2008, 04:25 PM
#2
Drifting
my settings are (with camber plates):
Front:
Caster: Max (while being equal side to side)
Camber: -2.0*
Toe: 0.0*
Rear:
Camber: -1.5*
Toe: .05* toe in
I think for this year I'm going to go with more camber front & rear, likely 2.5* or 3* front and 2.0* rear, as I don't think I was getting 100% from my tires.
On the street you'll get some "tramlining" ("pull") no matter what you do when you go to these camber levels, though adding more caster will help. Adjust rear toe to make the car more or less stable under braking (toe in = stable braking, toe out = quick turn in). Tire wear is also more dependent on toe than camber (0 toe = less wear).
Front:
Caster: Max (while being equal side to side)
Camber: -2.0*
Toe: 0.0*
Rear:
Camber: -1.5*
Toe: .05* toe in
I think for this year I'm going to go with more camber front & rear, likely 2.5* or 3* front and 2.0* rear, as I don't think I was getting 100% from my tires.
On the street you'll get some "tramlining" ("pull") no matter what you do when you go to these camber levels, though adding more caster will help. Adjust rear toe to make the car more or less stable under braking (toe in = stable braking, toe out = quick turn in). Tire wear is also more dependent on toe than camber (0 toe = less wear).
03-04-2008, 06:10 PM
#3
Race Car
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I was able to get 2.6front and 1.7rear for camber once I lowered the car a bit with the m030 parts. I maxed out caster, which isn't that much once you lower it, like 2 degrees or so. I have a spec sheet, but I won't be able to get to it until Saturday, so I guess that doesn't help you.
Driving on the street with that camber is really no sweat so far. Haven't had it long enough to comment on tire wear, but the pull isn't that bothersome to me. It does pull more, though.
I would put rear toe close to zero at the most aggressive and more toe in for some safety. The car flexes towards toe out when under braking and the back end is lifting up- this ruined my autocrossing for awhile and would be really bad news on track.
Max out you caster. It increases the amount of dynamic camber you get (camber increase under strut compression). Drawback is it makes steering a bit more difficult, but unless you have some joint problems or something you won't really notice.
Driving on the street with that camber is really no sweat so far. Haven't had it long enough to comment on tire wear, but the pull isn't that bothersome to me. It does pull more, though.
I would put rear toe close to zero at the most aggressive and more toe in for some safety. The car flexes towards toe out when under braking and the back end is lifting up- this ruined my autocrossing for awhile and would be really bad news on track.
Max out you caster. It increases the amount of dynamic camber you get (camber increase under strut compression). Drawback is it makes steering a bit more difficult, but unless you have some joint problems or something you won't really notice.
03-04-2008, 11:49 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Greg, to answer your email I have no idea what my car is running for alignment. I gave the car to Charlie at Intersport and set set it up. He never gave me a printout but the car handles great.
In your situation Id shoot for max front camber (equal on both sides) , 0 toe up front. If the front can get -2.5 deg Id say -1.75 in the rear should work. You do want a small amount of toe in for the rear as under braking the wheels will toe out and the car will get twitchy in the braking zone. This is why I let Charlie do my alignments. It costs more, but I dont have to worry about trying to figure out what specs to run. Beisdes hes probably forgotten more about setting these cars up then Ill ever know.
In your situation Id shoot for max front camber (equal on both sides) , 0 toe up front. If the front can get -2.5 deg Id say -1.75 in the rear should work. You do want a small amount of toe in for the rear as under braking the wheels will toe out and the car will get twitchy in the braking zone. This is why I let Charlie do my alignments. It costs more, but I dont have to worry about trying to figure out what specs to run. Beisdes hes probably forgotten more about setting these cars up then Ill ever know.
