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Clutch question

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Old 02-29-2008 | 06:15 PM
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Default Clutch question

Its clutch time, seeing as how mine is on its emergency fingers now. I am replacing the original and was wondering what the best unit was to install? I was looking on ebay at a few bids and they ranged from 280 to 490. Specifically what units do you use and which would you recommend?

Also, are there any particular ebay sellers that you have bought clutch kits from before and done well with?

Should I forget ebay and just buy from an online store instead?

Or do any of YOU have a new clutch kit for sale or individual parts perhaps?
I am also going to need a flywheel lock?
Or any other special tools?

So what I'm asking is, give me your recommendations on the products you use, I'm installing myself. What else will I need besides the clutch?
Old 02-29-2008 | 06:35 PM
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put in a SACHS clutch kit, then buy pilot bearing, and pivot fork bearings, the 9 cheesehead bolts on the flywheel, and the 9 (i think 9) bolts on the pressure plate as well from a site sponsor. I think only the flywheel ones are stretch bolts, but i cant remember for sure, i did it just to be safe . I got mine form an ebay seller gripforce-clutches im not sure if he still has them, it was best price i found though, was also in 06'. no, you dont need a flywheel lock
Old 02-29-2008 | 09:05 PM
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Ditto with the above. While you are in there do the rear main seal and install a new pilot bearing guide tube. It's also a good time to clean up the shift lever play (if sloppy) since the shift rod is pulled forward. You'll never have a better chance to upgrade battery cables, clutch master and slave, and replace the heater valve with the engine hanging down some. Start soaking your speed/ reference sensors now and it will really help in getting them out.
Old 02-29-2008 | 09:50 PM
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I agree with all the above, except for the rear main seal. Unless its leaking you are not going to gain anything from changing it. The ref sensors and the clutch fork retaining rod were the my biggest problems.
Old 02-29-2008 | 09:56 PM
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IMHO, I would change the RMS while you have it apart.
It is a lot of labor if the RMS decides to leak 3000 miles after the clutch job.
Old 03-01-2008 | 12:15 AM
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Agreed about the RMS. It's more of a while you're in there thing. Imagine putting everything back together only to find the RMS leaking a few thousand miles down the road.

-Darwin
Old 03-01-2008 | 01:00 AM
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Thanks for all the info.....what about buying on ebay??? anyone done this or did you order from suppliers?? Just want to make sure I get something quality and as represented....TIA>>Some of the sellers like Gripforce have sold thousands of parts, and some have sold dozens...but the prices don't seem beatable on EBay....
Old 03-01-2008 | 01:16 AM
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Definitely, absolutely change the rear main seal. Don't even consider leaving the old one. If you leave the old one, it will haunt you. And it will start leaking. And you will have to do the entire clutch job over again!

Don't forget to notch your bellhousing when you have it off!

I ordered my last Sachs clutch kit from ebay and it was fine. Exactly the right parts. I saved a nice chunk of cash. If you think this is wrong (not buying from a sponsor) then consider that the saved money was subsequently spent at sponsor sites! And then the car had a new clutch AND other goodies!
Old 03-01-2008 | 01:54 AM
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I have everything torn down and the flywheel off.... ... SUCH A PAIN!!!
How hard is a RMS?
Old 03-01-2008 | 02:11 AM
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I have the Sachs kit in my 951... 7K miles and counting with no complaints.
Old 03-01-2008 | 03:36 AM
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+1 on what other have posted; but I would suggest to have your flywheel re-surfaced.
Old 03-01-2008 | 11:32 AM
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Ok, thanks for info.
What does FRPorscheman mean when he says
Don't forget to notch your bellhousing when you have it off!

Is he just joking around.. ?
Old 03-01-2008 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Caboose
Ok, thanks for info.
What does FRPorscheman mean when he says
Don't forget to notch your bellhousing when you have it off!

Is he just joking around.. ?
He means once the bellhousing is removed you can cut out the sensor opening all the way to the face of the mounting surface. This allows the bellhousing to be removed in the future without disturbing the sensors at no real loss in strength. It's really more a benefit for people that work on track cars and need to replace a clutch more frequently than a daily driver. Usually once you done a clutch job on a 951 you sell the car and take up something easier like grooming badgers.
Old 03-01-2008 | 01:04 PM
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Grooming badgers -- thats funny.
Old 03-02-2008 | 07:29 PM
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When I'm ordering my clutch components, what all do I need specifically, so far I've got this written down.
Clutch Spring Disk
Clutch Pressure Plate
Clutch Pilot Bearing
Clutch Throwout Bearing
Rear Main Seal
Pilot Bearing Release Tube
Pivot Fork Bearings

I want to know if you think I should replace the release bearing and the flywheel locknuts? Is there anything else that you would replace in there? I do NOT wanna do this again.


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