Will Feather

Well I checked the search and no one seems to have the same problem. When I go to turn the **** on the heater panel, nothing happens. And by nothing I mean absolutely nothing. No fans turn on, no noises no nothing. My A/C works fine, what gives? All the slides work fine and all the wires are connected and look functional. I NEED HEAT for this freaking New England weather. Anyone else experience something like this..? I checked all the relays and fuses and they are good. My cars a 1984 944.

Thanks

Zero10

There are seperate blower motors for heat and A/C on early cars. Perhaps the one for the heater is hooped? Could be the switch as well. Can't say I understand how wires can _look_ functional, you need a voltmeter.

Will Feather

Look as in they are all connected fine, I have a voltmeter but I just took it apart quick tonight, then I had to jokey cars around, im gettin an inch of snow an hour over here.

sbyrne

When you move the heat slider, does the heater valve open? When I had the opposite problem (too much heat) this spring, I discovered that the sheath around the heater valve control cable had shifted, not allowing the valve to close all the way. Could just be a bad valve (stuck closed) I suppose. Have someone move the temp slider slowly while you observe the operation of the valve. It is a b*tch to reach, though.

dv8nxs944

Would the defrost work? Probably not huh

Will Feather

No defrost, and thats the worst part about it. I can live being cold but I cant live no being able to see...Sbyrne where do I look for that?

billthe3

Do the early cars have the vacuum controlled heater valve in the coolant system at the back of the head? I know they are designed to fail open, but if the vacuum line is disconnected or something maybe it is staying closed.

joonas

http://clarks-garage.com/phpBB2/view...t=blower+motor

sbyrne

Early cars are not vacuum actuated, but use a sleaved cable attached to the slider on the dash end and the arm of the heater control valve on the engine compartment end. The valve attaches to the back of the cylinder head with a short hose that points downward toward the clutch housing. The cable comes to the valve from the driver's side along the firewall. The valve has 2 "arms" attached: one stationary, which has the sleave of the cable attached with a small clamp; and the other which moves to open and close the water flow when the slider on the dash is moved. The worst part is that all of this stuff is underneath other stuff - the O2 sensor, run/reference sensor wiring connections, etc. In fact, after diagnosing the problem with my car I ended up taking it to a pro because I was afraid of doing damage to other parts while manhandling the heater stuff.

Will Feather

wow joonas thanks alot for showing me that, that is the same symptoms i am having. So i should replace the heater fan switch than huh? anone have one of those for sale? this is the **** next to the sliders correct, or is it something within the dash?

I love porsche

i have the exact same problem in my 924S, Ive just dealt with it i guess...at highway speed i can get heat through the defroster and vents, so i just drive faster lol...good excuse for the cops, right...

anyways, i just havent had the time to look into it, so i will be following this closely

Zero10

Check for voltage at the blower motor when you turn the switch on. No voltage, then check for voltage at the switch with the ignition on. If there is power there likely the switch has gone bad. I believe there is also a resistor pack for the blower motor that can go bad on occasion?

Will Feather

the heater blower motor is under the passenger foot well correct.

yellowline

No.

Pop the hood, look way in the back, in the middle of the firewall. Under the big black grill lies the blower fan.

What you're describing is the fan for the AC. While you're at it, check and make sure that the AC switch isn't on- it cuts out the HVAC blower.

Will Feather

ya, i knew it was one or the other, wow blonde moment.