aben8057

I am not sure if it was mentioned here but make sure you disconect your battery

ExitWound

hehe yes the battery is off and the starter disconnected.

Dan87951

Don't know if this has already been said (didn't feel like reading the whole thread) but a power bleeder is a life saver. Simply fill the bleeder with fluid hook it up it open the drain screw on the slave and pump away. 10mins later you should be all set! Power bleeder is the best invention since slice bread..

ExitWound

clutch seems to be bled perfectly. opening the clutch fork viewport shows that the slave piston is not moving enough to push the pressure plate away. it's traveling (pushing the fork) only about 1/8th of an inch in, and retracting the same amount. New slave though. Fork seems to be okay ( no cracks etc). The slave rod is just not pushing far enough.

I cant' get the slave cylinder off!!! Stupid 2nd bolt will NOT budge. Other one came off just fine though, of course.

MM951

If your having trouble with the top bolt I've always had luck with a pear end 3/8 ratchet and no extension. Also could use a crowfoot.

I was having the same exact problem.. clutch seemed to be bled perfectly but the slave would move only about 1/8" . You just need to be able to move the slave itself to get the air out.

If you can get other 13mm bolt off you'll be in business. good luck!

KuHL 951

If all he has to do is depress the push rod as you say why can't he just lever it backwards with a screwdriver through the inspection window while it is still bolted up? Why bother taking it off?

ExitWound

I tried that too, and there's no real way to push the rod in far enough with the fork in the way and the inspection hole so small.

I *did* manage to get that bolt loose and take the slave off. In fact, I pumped the slave 4 or 5 times, slowly, but the pedal goes right to the floor still.

I think i'm going to reverse bleed it. It's the only thing left I haven't tried. With 6-8 inches of snow on the way, my last chance is tomorrow...and i work 11 hours. Yay.

Update: Reverse bleeding seemed to start to want to work, although, it's extremely messy and very uncomfortable. The clutch is very spongy, actually working the pressure plate though, if only slightly. I may actually be able to drive it in this condition, but I dont' want to put the starter back in until I can add some more feeling to the clutch. I have no more brake fluid though, and I have no ride to get any more. looks like the project is stalled until after the storm :\

ExitWound

I went out to adjust the clevis today a little bit to see if that might help, to see if it slipped or changed and the clutch was fully released to the top and had full pressure to the floor, engaging the clutch and disengaging it properly. The only thing I did was take the car for a test run yesterday after putting the starter back on. I moved in and out of 2nd gear with the limited clutch activity I had because I needed to get the car to a shop as a last resort. Today, though, the clutch is up and fully engagable. The temperature IS 32F, not nearly as cold as it has been.That's the only difference between last night's test run and today.

What may have happened?

KuHL 951

I bet any unbled air finally rose to the reservoir as the fluid thinned out from warmer temps.

StoogeMoe

Mine did something similar when I replaced the master. Could it be the self adjusting mechanism?

FRporscheman

Personally, the power bleeder never works for me when bleeding the clutch. I can be at it ALL day and I still have a ton of air in there. The only way that works for me is the 2-man method of pumping the pedal while someone opens/closes the bleeder nipple.

But it seems you got it working! Congrats!

Naplesguy06

Man thank God you did it I was beginnning to think you would have to take the car to Porsche for the fix.I think the 8 hours of professional labor might have been worth the money.Sounds like this isnt an easy thing to fix.Just busting that second nut off would have erked me. I cant see where there is room to work on these cars. Damn chin spoiler on my 86 911 took me 2 days to do, had to remove bars,grills,etc.drill,wondered in the end if 300.00 to body shop would have been the way to go., germans buid things the most complicated way. Anyways all is well that ends well.Good Job.

ExitWound

This morning, upon waking, I called every transmission shop in town as I was ready to drop the car off and pay the bill. We don't have a Porsche dealer in town either, the closest being 90-100 minutes away. But, I figured I'd fool with the clutch play on the clevis bolt....and I had a clutch! I drove to work today and back, and it was fine. It doesn't come out as far as it used to, but it pops back perfectly and the car runs great. It feels sooo good to drive my OWN car again though. It still needs adjustment though, which I may do tomorrow.

Tom M'Guinn

The first time I tried, I spent a whole weekend pumping and bleeding and got nothing. The Motive Power Bleeder is cheap and saves lots of frustration. But, if you are determined to do it now, I have two additional tips to those above. First, get a mityvac at your local autoparts store. Push down the pedal and open the bleeder to let the fluid out, then before lifting the pedal, put a vacuum on the bleeder and close it. This helps suck the trapped air out. Second, give it a little bit of time between pumps, and check the fluid level virtually every pump. There is a separate compartment for the clutch fluid and it seems to refill slowly no matter how high the fluid level is. You can suck air into the clutch line if you don't let it refill between pumps.