Help me solve my no start condition
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Help me solve my no start condition
Could bad speed and reference sensors do this? I have a feeling I might have hit them routing my wideband 02 sensor.
I go to start the car to go to the track with ccaarmerciill today and the car just cranks with the tach bouncing between 0-1000rpm.
I go to start the car to go to the track with ccaarmerciill today and the car just cranks with the tach bouncing between 0-1000rpm.
#4
Rennlist Member
For some quick diagnostics:
First, check DME relay (which you prob already have done). How long has it been since you drove your car? Checked bat voltage?
Dist. cap and/or rotor could also be bad.
Have you verified whether you're getting no spark or no fuel? Try spraying a small amount of ether in there....might start.
Could also be your factory alarm. Bypassing it is ridiculously simple, so you might try that as well.
If none of that works, try your AFM and wiring harness continuity. Just because your tach is bouncing doesn't necessarily mean your speed/ref sensors are working. Try to get your hands on a good one and swap 'em just to be sure.
Could be your DME
First, check DME relay (which you prob already have done). How long has it been since you drove your car? Checked bat voltage?
Dist. cap and/or rotor could also be bad.
Have you verified whether you're getting no spark or no fuel? Try spraying a small amount of ether in there....might start.
Could also be your factory alarm. Bypassing it is ridiculously simple, so you might try that as well.
If none of that works, try your AFM and wiring harness continuity. Just because your tach is bouncing doesn't necessarily mean your speed/ref sensors are working. Try to get your hands on a good one and swap 'em just to be sure.
Could be your DME
#5
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Lets see I drove the car with no problems what so ever on friday. Battery has good voltage and the cap and rotor along with the rest of the spark components are 2 years old.
The only thing I did this weekend was route the wideband sensor down the engine bay. I'm sure I hit the sensors and I know that the wideband controller hit the connections. I did have the fuse/relay box open while I did wiring in there.
Anyone have a dme relay I can borrow?
The only thing I did this weekend was route the wideband sensor down the engine bay. I'm sure I hit the sensors and I know that the wideband controller hit the connections. I did have the fuse/relay box open while I did wiring in there.
Anyone have a dme relay I can borrow?
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Why not take the relay apart and clean the contacts? You can test it as well with a spare battery or battery charger (Any 12V source) and VOM.
These relays are only like $15, so it makes sense to have an extra one around.
Good luck with it,
Keith
These relays are only like $15, so it makes sense to have an extra one around.
Good luck with it,
Keith
#7
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Its gotta be the sensor. The wire on the sensor itself (the one closer to the firewall) appears to be coming out.
I've read up on using a bmw part number that will work but search gave me two different part numbers with different prices but still lower than the porsche one.
12 14 1708 618 $97
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...FILTER_BMWM=ON
or
12 14 1710 668 $46
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...ILTER_BE392=ON
I've read up on using a bmw part number that will work but search gave me two different part numbers with different prices but still lower than the porsche one.
12 14 1708 618 $97
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...FILTER_BMWM=ON
or
12 14 1710 668 $46
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...ILTER_BE392=ON
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Car started today after I cleaned the DME and ignition relays. I guess I'll buy a few spares. I'm going to keep the sensors I bought for a winter project.