Power to Manual Steering- is this the magical part?
10-01-2007, 10:42 AM
#1
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Power to Manual Steering- is this the magical part?
Link on Ebay
Manual for '83 to '85, $184 ($32 core return)
My PS makes a mess and would go the manual route if I could. Local parts places want much more than this- $300 or close.
First- can I refit my '87 with manual and
2- is this unit worth bothering?
Manual for '83 to '85, $184 ($32 core return)
My PS makes a mess and would go the manual route if I could. Local parts places want much more than this- $300 or close.
First- can I refit my '87 with manual and
2- is this unit worth bothering?
10-01-2007, 10:59 AM
#3
Race Director
It states "manual steering" but the photo is a power rack. You better check with them to verify first.
You can install a manual rack in your 87 with the correct late offset manual tie rods.
You can install a manual rack in your 87 with the correct late offset manual tie rods.
10-01-2007, 11:21 AM
#4
Nordschleife Master
You will also need to change the steering shaft (firewall to rack), these are becoming very hard to find. Your best bet is to find a rack and shaft from an '83 and expect to pay around $400-$600 used.
Some places carry a conversion kit with new components (rack, shaft, tie-rods) for around $1000, try Ian at www.944online.com.
Some places carry a conversion kit with new components (rack, shaft, tie-rods) for around $1000, try Ian at www.944online.com.
10-01-2007, 12:36 PM
#5
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The manual rack needs more steering wheel input to turn the wheels. Just drain all the fluid out of the power rack. Once you have it 100% drained you can cap the ends. Now you havea manual rack with the power steering ratio. If you are looking to do the manual for track or autocross use then you are better off with the empty power rack. The steering will be heavy but I never thought it was a big issue.
10-01-2007, 01:13 PM
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I'll recheck the archives for plugging the unit.
It is a track car, parking isn't a deal. The only issue I have is a tiny steering wheel and I'd need a larger one for leverage. After a few events I'd look like Popeye or Steve Garvey.
The best steering car I ever had was a Focus SVT with a blown power steering unit.
It is a track car, parking isn't a deal. The only issue I have is a tiny steering wheel and I'd need a larger one for leverage. After a few events I'd look like Popeye or Steve Garvey.
The best steering car I ever had was a Focus SVT with a blown power steering unit.
10-01-2007, 01:19 PM
#7
Nordschleife Master
The manual rack needs more steering wheel input to turn the wheels. Just drain all the fluid out of the power rack. Once you have it 100% drained you can cap the ends. Now you havea manual rack with the power steering ratio. If you are looking to do the manual for track or autocross use then you are better off with the empty power rack. The steering will be heavy but I never thought it was a big issue.
So, manual rack is easier to turn but needs more turns to achieve the same rack input. Power rack (converted to manual) will turn the wheels quicker but requires more driver effort. You can always make the driver effort less on the power rack by swapping to a larger diameter steering wheel.
Personal choice which way you go.
FYI: Manual Rack Ratio is 22.39:1, Power Rack Ratio is 18.85:1
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10-01-2007, 01:20 PM
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That is the set up I am running. I have 8 inch slicks in the front and don't find it being to heavy. At speed it seems to be alright.
I am also young and dumb so as I get older I am sure I will hate it.
I am also young and dumb so as I get older I am sure I will hate it.
10-01-2007, 01:22 PM
#10
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I bought that- it was TOTALLY wrong. I don't know what car that rack was supposed to be for, but it wasn't a 944.
I have since just drained the PS. I have the parts for the late offset manual swap, but since it is fine to drive I am waiting until I have to go in for something else to do it.
I have since just drained the PS. I have the parts for the late offset manual swap, but since it is fine to drive I am waiting until I have to go in for something else to do it.
10-01-2007, 01:29 PM
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I got my rack out of a junkyard in Houston for 100 bucks and then got the intermediate shaft for 30. My car is early offset and the rod inner's were good so I just re-used them. There's deals to be had. Dont be lured into buying a manual rack for 600 dollars or anything.
10-01-2007, 01:32 PM
#13
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You didn't totally drain the rack did you?
You need some type of lubrication in there.
I have mine totally drained but I smothered the internals in grease.
You need some type of lubrication in there.
I have mine totally drained but I smothered the internals in grease.
10-01-2007, 01:58 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
I got my rack out of a junkyard in Houston for 100 bucks and then got the intermediate shaft for 30. My car is early offset and the rod inner's were good so I just re-used them. There's deals to be had. Dont be lured into buying a manual rack for 600 dollars or anything.
Got the one for my first 944 for $375 on eBay, used rack, tie rods, boots, shaft. Just paid $550 for my second used set for my track build, though this did include two new tie rod assemblies.
There used to be 2 to 3 a month on ebay, now there are none.