billthe3

I'd rather spring for some somewhat expensive tape and do it myself than pay a shop to do the glue form correctly and then still have it come apart in several years.

TRWright

Not sure if this will help anyone or not- but my rear hatch was re-sealed over 3 years ago and still appears to be sealed. It was done by Satellite Glass and they charged $100 for labor and $20 for the sealant.

The invoice lists the sealant used as "SIKA ULTRAFAST II URETHANE 10.5 OZ"

New hatch struts were also installed right after- no issues with the glass seperating to date.

UncleMaz

Ah, the professional touch. Did you remove the hatch glass for them or was that included in the price (either way a good deal)? Thanks.

Mike C.

Ted, I assume you had removed the glass and cleaned the frame/glass. Did they come to your house to do it?

Airflite40

Yeah Ted, whats the deal?? cuz that way its cheaper for me to reseal than to swap and retint

Mike C.

I took a quick look at a few of the data sheets on the 3M super tape for structural glazing applications (i.e. bonding glass to metal) and I get the impression it is really intended for flat joints only. Not only that, 3M won't sell you this kind of tape without a consultation on your application. The 'transportation' tapes seem to be targeted at metal to metal and fiberglass to metal bonds (trailers, etc) and no mention is made of glass. So while this stuff might be the magic bullet, it will remain for someone else to experiment with it for our application. At least Ted's experience is cause for hope....

Mike C.

Here's the word from 3M on the urethane primer-

"That is correct, if when excessive abraisive cleaning is required yes you
need to apply a two part automotive paint primer first and let it dry for
10 minutes before applying the one step primer. "

TRWright

Guys-- that was drive in, drive out.

Airflite40

WHAAAA???? Your kidding..... I'm gonna call them today

wait was that Satellite??? OR SAFELITE???

TRWright

"Satellite Glass, INC"

Not to be confused with "safelite auto glass" (who will be replacing the windshield in my 911 this week !!)

They charged $100 for "in-shop labor" and $20 for the urethane (list was 38.68) plus tax. It was done just over 3 years ago.

Under comments it says "rear glass re-sealed"

I would think that any good auto glass shop would be able to do it. Start making some phone calls !!

Good luck !!

Mike C.

Do you know if they removed the rear glass and re-install Ted? Maybe they scraped it out as much as possible and squished some new urethane under there without removing the glass. I just can't imagine it would be only $100 labor to R&R..

TRWright

They fully seperated the glass-- you can tell the job is not OEM if you look closely.

Mike C.

Wow. I guess I'll look around some more.... Thanks.

User 41221

As a point of reference, I've done a fair number of hatch reseals and the only ones that didn't hold were previously "repaired" using silicon. The one on my 951 is 4 years old and still holding strong.

A couple of tips:

1) Mandatory (imo) to completely remove the glass to do the job. Its a PITA but half measures won't cut it here.

2) If its had a silicon "repair" or patch job, throw the hatch away, it can't be saved. Try as I might, I couldn't clean it well enough to get it to hold. This is my opinion only, but fair warning, its a big disappointment to do a hatch job and have it fail shortly afterwards.

3) Use WAY more urethane up at the top (on the inside of the glass) than the factory did. It helps build a MUCH stronger bond and you won't notice it unless you look closely.

4) Spray the upper outside top strip of the glass with flat black paint where the glue bond is visible through the glass. UV is one of the leading causes of delamination, by painting it, you'll protect it rom the rays.

5) A little bit of careful handling when opening or closing your hatch goes a LONG ways towards maintaining the integrity of the hatch.

6) Follow the instructions of the urethane manufacturer exactly, and don't mix or match products from different manufacturers. 3-M Window Weld is great stuff if used properly.

Regards,

Mike C.

Thanks Scott. That's encouraging since I'm sure my hatch has never seen silicone. Good idea the flat black strip on the outside...