ExitWound

Yes, this has been addressed in other threads, but I've tried everything under the sun, and the car is still intermittant upon the key turn.

Things Done

• Battery is fully charged. Tested with Voltmeter. >12V
• All terminals cleaned of rust/corrosion on battery, starter, and solenoid.
• 12V solid signal from battery to starter at large post on solenoid.
• 12V solid signal from ignition switch when key turned at small post on solenoid.
• Brand new solenoid.
• Second used starter.
• Starter removed from car multiple times for best alignment.

Symptoms

• Key turn = no solenoid click (sometimes).
• Key turn = rapidly clicking solenoid (sometimes).
• Key turn = solenoid click, engine not turning. Starter sounds quiet (sometimes).
• Key turn = solenoid click, starter rotates rapidly not engaging engine (sometimes).
• Key turn = solenoid click, starter rotates, engages engine, car starts (rarely).
• All powered items in the car function properly with solid operation (no dimming headlights, no slow windows etc).

Thoughts

• The only thing I Haven't done is investigate the ignition swich. But since the switch is sending a solid signal to the starter upon EVERY key turn, I figure it's still good.
• I've tried two starters with two solenoids and both are showing the same intermittancy in the starter engaging leading me to believe that it's something else. I've cleaned all the terminals everywhere including the attachments on the battery cables, the starter itself, the solenoid, even all grounding wires I could find on the car.
• Car will run fine when the starter finally works.

What is the function of the cable leading from the starter to the alternator? I've taken that off, cleaned all its terminals as well just to be sure. Why is this cable necessary?

Am I missing something? Could this be an ignition switch issue rather than a starter issue? Two starters with three different solenoids (one brand new) with no resolution leads me to believe I'm missing something. What else, theoretical or hypothetical, could cause an intermittant starter? I know the car has no lockouts for starting (unlike my VW with a seat belt check), so that's not an issue.

ANY help would be great as I'm without a reliable car at the moment.

Thanks.

Update: Car tonight would not start. Turn the key = nothing. I got under the car and attempted to jump the terminals on the starter. The result was the solenoid engaging and spinning, but it didn't sound like it was engaging the flywheel at all. I tried to turn the key again, and all i got was a fast-clicking solenoid. the car would not start.

Mikerex

It could be the ignition switch. On my 86 N/A I had a problem where the car would be running and would cut out randomly. It would not start up again and had to be push started to run. I put a new starter and battery in and I finally put a new ignition switch on and it fixed the problem.

jwade944

I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be a loose ground. There are two grounds near the back of the engine. (In the same area as the heater control valve.) One is on the block and one is on the bell housing. Check both.

ExitWound

Took the starter to Advance Auto and had it tested. Perfect condition, they say. Took the battery for a battery test. Perfect as well, though it was a tad beneath full charge. They charged it for me in the process. Put it all back in the car and the car started up FOUR times. The fifth time (several hours later) it started fine. The sixth time (10 minutes later) the car was extremely sluggish in starting as if the starter wasn't getting enough juice from the battery such as on a cold winter day. It eventually did start. I'm guessing that if I try to start it today, it will fail.

Does this point to the battery not being charged as I drive?

ausgeflippt951

Sounds to me like a bad ground. The reason starters are all metal and they bolt directly to the flywheel is to get the maximum electrical connection possible. You didn't put any kind of silicone to "seal" the starter to the housing, did you?

You'd be surprised what is considered a bad ground...on the dirtbike in my sig I ended up moving the ground for the voltage reg four times, because each time it didn't do anything...kept burning out bulbs with 25V. I thought the reg was bad. I finally ended up getting it working, and it all came down to grounds.



The way you'd know it was battery/alternator related is whether or not it starts every time when you jumper the car. Does it? If so, then it's not ignition switch or starter grounds.

ExitWound

Fully charged from the house

Battery POS --> Battery NEG : 12.80V
Solenoid Ignition --> GND with Key Turn: 11.8V
Battery POS --> Battery NEG while key turn (no starter engagement) : 12.2V [assuming this is due to dash being on?]
Solenoid/Battery POS --> Engine GND : 12.80V

Car will not attempt to engage the starter (even after this full charge) so I cannot check the "while running" voltage across the battery.

All terminals cleaned and shined. All grounds (as far as I can find) the same.