Cutch job questions...
#16
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I guess I'll go ahead and order up the clutch kit tonight, since I won't have time to work on it for a couple of weeks anyways.
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theres a clutch kit on ebay for 380ish bucks =) cheapeast sachs i could find.
Cheap tools do indeed suck, my bloody knuckles can tell u the story.
I still need to buy the cheese head tools. and some of those u Joint adapters.
Cheap tools do indeed suck, my bloody knuckles can tell u the story.
I still need to buy the cheese head tools. and some of those u Joint adapters.
#18
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As far as removing the bell housing; double check the speed sensors. They are worth the hassle getting them clear now.
If you read the installation instructions of the bell housing, it says to (paraphrasing)“repair heat shield damage from removal of bell housing”
If you read the installation instructions of the bell housing, it says to (paraphrasing)“repair heat shield damage from removal of bell housing”
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Yep, thats the kit I have been keeping an eye on, I'm about to order it up.
I have already completely removed speed and refrence sensors from the car. I found out why I couldn't get the bellhousing to move; I forgot to remove the lower sheet metal dust cover thingy, between the lower half of the housing and the oil pan. Now I can pull it back and wiggle it around, but still cant get it off.
I have already completely removed speed and refrence sensors from the car. I found out why I couldn't get the bellhousing to move; I forgot to remove the lower sheet metal dust cover thingy, between the lower half of the housing and the oil pan. Now I can pull it back and wiggle it around, but still cant get it off.
#20
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Yep, it takes a lot of wiggling to get it off, maybe even more to put it back on. Do the mod to the reference sensor hole. It'll help put it back on. If you change out the flywheel, check your sensor clearence before you put the housing back on. When you hook up the battery cable to the housing, put something over the inspection hole in the housing before you start, ASK ME HOW I KNOW.
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Ok, it is now dry enough outside to work on the car today. I am to the point where I have to take the pressure plate bolts off. Question is, Clarks-Garage, and everywhere else I read say that the bolts are 8mm cheeseheads. Mine are allen heads, did early cars have allen heads, or has someone replaced my clutch before?
Just wondering if anyone knew the the size offhand, before I got buy a full set.
Just wondering if anyone knew the the size offhand, before I got buy a full set.
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I got the release bearing on with almost no problems. I used all 3 shims plus the toothed one, bearing is rock solid, there is no play between it and the pressure plate. Should I remove one of the shims? Clarks says there should be a tiny bit of play.
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Pressure plate is torqued down. Now, what is this bellhousing mod that I keep hearing about? I tried searching for "bellhousing slot," bellhousing mod," "clutch housing mod," ect, but I found nothing?
#25
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Originally Posted by 959Lover
My brother's least favorite, but (sometimes) most helpful tool is his brother
. Get a helper when doing the hard work. And please, for the love of god thank them and buy them some pizza for their troubles... ![soapbox](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/soapbox.gif)
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But seriously, you're one fine wrencher and I appreciate your help
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#26
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Bellhousing mod:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ousing+notched
A question: why did you use all 3 shims? Remember shims will greatly affect the way your clutch pedal works. Use the same number of shims that the old clutch was using. If your old clutch engaged too low, you then want your TB to be farther from the PP.
Which side do the shims go on, again?
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ousing+notched
A question: why did you use all 3 shims? Remember shims will greatly affect the way your clutch pedal works. Use the same number of shims that the old clutch was using. If your old clutch engaged too low, you then want your TB to be farther from the PP.
Which side do the shims go on, again?
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Shims go under the PP on the throw out bearing. I am not re-using the same PP and bearing, everything is brand new; But I already did take one shim back off just incase.
Now its raining really really hard! I have the car on jackstands, the stands are on a sheet of plywood, but the water is atleast 2 inches up the base of the jack stands. I am starting to get worried now.
This will take a week for it to dry enough to work on. Water is about to flood into the garage too.
Now its raining really really hard! I have the car on jackstands, the stands are on a sheet of plywood, but the water is atleast 2 inches up the base of the jack stands. I am starting to get worried now.
This will take a week for it to dry enough to work on. Water is about to flood into the garage too.
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#28
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Holy shnikies! When it rains, it pours, eh? I know how much it sucks to have to work outdoors. Every single repair I've ever done on any p-car of mine has been outdoors. Including a 2 head gaskets and 2 clutches. Several jobs in the rain. It's the electrical jobs like alternators and starters that get really fun to do while it's raining.
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Yah, seems like it starts to rain everyday at 4PM during July/August. At this rate, I may end up staying home from my vacation to California next week so I can finish up the car
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