Capacitor and amp are draining my battery...any ideas
#1
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Capacitor and amp are draining my battery...any ideas
This doesn't make sense to me, maybe someone here can figure it out.
Ive attached a diagram to speed things along.
When i cut the car off the amp goes off.
When i turn turn the remote off (via the radio) the amp stays on.
when i disconnect the remote the amp stays on.
When i cut the car off the cap stays on - it slowly looses power then turns off.
My problem is...why cant i turn my amp off?
Ive attached a diagram to speed things along.
When i cut the car off the amp goes off.
When i turn turn the remote off (via the radio) the amp stays on.
when i disconnect the remote the amp stays on.
When i cut the car off the cap stays on - it slowly looses power then turns off.
My problem is...why cant i turn my amp off?
#2
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Call out the electrical gremlin patrol. Have you measured the static current drain yet with the engine off/key out? That's what a capacitor does it holds a charge until needed. When you turn the key off it will drain down. Why are you using a cap with such a small amp?
#3
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
Call out the electrical gremlin patrol. Have you measured the static current drain yet with the engine off/key out? That's what a capacitor does it holds a charge until needed. When you turn the key off it will drain down. Why are you using a cap with such a small amp?
MY "real" multimeters battery died and i have yet to replace it.
Ur correct it slowly drains down and then give a "flat line" tone when it drops under 9 volts.
Honestly, I'm using the cap because my rack would be empty w/o it.
I have no other explination for my battery dieing though.
#5
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Originally Posted by Royalty
...I have no other explination for my battery dieing though.
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Originally Posted by 75ohm
Make sure you have the true remote lead coming from the radio and not a power lead to the amp.
I have a Clarion dxz855mp. The remote is attached via a blue/white striped wire.
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#8
When i cut the car off the cap stays on - it slowly looses power then turns off... how long my cap would always stay on for 2 minutes then shut off... make sure ur cap and amp are grounded at the same point... and if the remotes disconnected and the amp stays on there must be a bit of current jumping over from the 12V+ termanal on the amp
#11
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maybe you just have a bad amp. either way, i'd check and double check all of my connections. how long are you letting the amp sit after you cycle your power of and on again? i know my amp stays on for about 10 seconds after the power has been disconnected because theres still some juice left in the internal capacitors.
#12
What gauge wire are you using for your remote turn on? Some amps need to use a relay to turn on the amp if they dont get enough power from the HU.
Someone said your amp is getting hot enough to fry an egg on? If that's the case and your having turn on/off issues you have a bad amp. I have some high end RF amps and they never get hot. can touch them with my bare hands when they are pulling the most juice.
With that small of an amp too you have no use for the cap.
Someone said your amp is getting hot enough to fry an egg on? If that's the case and your having turn on/off issues you have a bad amp. I have some high end RF amps and they never get hot. can touch them with my bare hands when they are pulling the most juice.
With that small of an amp too you have no use for the cap.
#13
an amp needs like .2 of an amp for the remote... they usally say use 22 gauge wire...
like I said your problem is you overloaded your amp and it got to hot melting some soder inside so there is probley a spot were the 12V+ is touching the remote check your wire first to make sure none of the little hairs are touching the remote
like I said your problem is you overloaded your amp and it got to hot melting some soder inside so there is probley a spot were the 12V+ is touching the remote check your wire first to make sure none of the little hairs are touching the remote
#14
Three Wheelin'
+1
If this is the amp in your rear seat delete thread, you've seriously misjudged what kind of heat sinking you need to run an amp without damaging it. You may have done that already.
It's really simple.....you need to get a multimeter that works and see if the amp is still drawing power. And get a couple of holes in the amp compartment, one with a fan in it (relay the remote lead to it's on when the amp is on) and make sure the placement of the holes draws air across the amp.
If this is the amp in your rear seat delete thread, you've seriously misjudged what kind of heat sinking you need to run an amp without damaging it. You may have done that already.
It's really simple.....you need to get a multimeter that works and see if the amp is still drawing power. And get a couple of holes in the amp compartment, one with a fan in it (relay the remote lead to it's on when the amp is on) and make sure the placement of the holes draws air across the amp.