I'm basicly done with my motor mount and oil pan gasket/ oil pump reseal. It was a real bitch to put it back together, especially with my motor mounts. I had to use a really short 35 mm bolt with 3 washers on passenger side motor mount (one of the bolts) because one of the threads in the motor mount was not all the way through so the bolt barely went in so I"m not sure how safe that is.


anyways when I removed the control arm to chasis bolts I forgot to mark which bolt goes where. Each of the control arms has two bolts that hold it on to the chasis and one of the bolts on each side is different. At first I though that the bolt broke but then the other side also had the same broken looking bolt ....

so I'm pretty sure it's not broken as only one looks like that on each side.

I need to know which goes where, one must go closer to the fender and other closer to the engine.


thanks.

 

pics suck but you can see one bolt looks borken but I'm pretty sure it's not and it's just the bolt.



each of the control arms has one like that and one just a normal bolt. I need to know where the broken looking one goes, towards the engine or on the side closest to the fender.

hope that makes sense.

 

The bolts are fine, they are supposed to look like that. Those attach the caster block to the frame of the car. They look pretty corroded. Clean them up with a wire wheel before putting them back on.

Make sure you do not over torque those. 34ft-lbs. Over torquing will lead to a nightmare trying to fix the nut that is spot welded to the frame.

 

so why is one of the bolts "broken" like that and the other just a regular bolt?

I assume it matters where the broken looking one goes.

I think I overtorqued my motor mount bolts all three of them because I can't get a torque wrench in there but I think they should be fine.

also do I need to use loctite on this? I think when it came out it just had anti-seize so I'm going ot use antiseize also but would that change the torque value?

thanks.

 

All four of the bolts for my control arm have the notched section at the end. Not sure why yours only has one like that. Do not use any type of thread locker. A very thin coat of anti-seize is what i used.

 

ok cool, I guess it doesn't matter.

I think some previous owner screwed with my car as my motor mount bolts were also way longer than 42/38 mms.

also the bolt without the broken part has two washers on it, one thin small one and one big one. The other bolt without the broken part has 4 washers on it.... I'm guessing it's not orignal so

I don't have time to order new bolts and washers so I'm going to go ahead and use these and I guess it doesn't matter which one goes where.

 

anyone know if that notched part serves any purpose? It must, I can't see why else it would be made like that

 

It's a self tapping bolt. You do not want to overtighten the castor mount bolts because you will strip the threads in the frame.

 

well I just noticed one fo the threads on one of the bolts is kind of screwed up I'm worried it might wreck the threads in the frame, is it ok if I just run a die (sp) over it? what size bolt is it?

m12? x1.25?

 

I bought new ones last week. I think it was M10 by 65. The only M12 bolt on the control arm is for the inside bushing.

 

well I'll check the local parts stores or my work lol to see if they have a m10 x65.

what is the thread pitch? 1.25?

if not then I'll have to run a die through it and reuse it.

 

M10 by 70 will also fit if they don't have 65. Just use the thread pitch checker plate with all the different sized holes in it at a hardware store with one of the old bolts.