Where are the headlight relays? 944 '83 Euro
06-27-2007, 12:09 PM
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Track Day
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Where are the headlight relays? 944 '83 Euro
My headlights suddenly quit on me, every once in a while they work. I've check fuses, blubs, wiring, etc. and eveything is ok.
I suspect the relay, but they are not under the dash.
Thank you.
944 NA 1983 Eurospec.
I suspect the relay, but they are not under the dash.
Thank you.
944 NA 1983 Eurospec.
06-27-2007, 12:21 PM
#2
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There is no main headlight relay, aside from the one on the motor- welcome to Porsche electrical engineering.
Do none of your lights work (side markers, etc) ? If so, you may want to check behind your fusebox. A large red wire leading into a blue multipin connector may be giving you trouble. That is the main feed to your headlights, and I found that mine was browned from a recent switch-melting episode.
After fixing this, I recommend wiring in a new headlight harness, such as the one available at rennbay.com. It has a direct feed off of the alternator, as well as relays.
Do none of your lights work (side markers, etc) ? If so, you may want to check behind your fusebox. A large red wire leading into a blue multipin connector may be giving you trouble. That is the main feed to your headlights, and I found that mine was browned from a recent switch-melting episode.
After fixing this, I recommend wiring in a new headlight harness, such as the one available at rennbay.com. It has a direct feed off of the alternator, as well as relays.
06-27-2007, 12:33 PM
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Hello:
Thank you so much! So the relay for the headlights is the one in the engine bay? All my other lights work, highbeams, position light, rear, turn signals, etc.
I have no side markers as it is a european version.
Could it be the relay in the engine bay???
Thank you so much! So the relay for the headlights is the one in the engine bay? All my other lights work, highbeams, position light, rear, turn signals, etc.
I have no side markers as it is a european version.
Could it be the relay in the engine bay???
06-28-2007, 11:32 AM
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Hello:
I checked last night and found no relay on the passenger side, the only relay in that area is the one for the headlight motor.
So, is there no relay for the headlights (low beams)???
I checked last night and found no relay on the passenger side, the only relay in that area is the one for the headlight motor.
So, is there no relay for the headlights (low beams)???
04-27-2011, 07:13 PM
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Haha... I have had the same problem ! And even porsche tecnitians was looking for the problem for me, and didnt find out ****. !!!
So I spent like maybe 30 houres looking for the headling problem, and then I just popped out the two grey relays just above the acalerator padle on side of the AC switch, took them out and it worked, don't know how but it worked. Maybe its some conection to them, and one of the relays have a black/yellow cable to them. Il try to take some photos and poste so others can see.
So I spent like maybe 30 houres looking for the headling problem, and then I just popped out the two grey relays just above the acalerator padle on side of the AC switch, took them out and it worked, don't know how but it worked. Maybe its some conection to them, and one of the relays have a black/yellow cable to them. Il try to take some photos and poste so others can see.
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05-03-2011, 03:12 PM
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If you have a multimeter, set it to tone (usually one of the resistance measurement selections will have a feature to beep if there's conductivity), and start checking for conductivity. A good place to start is across the fuses that are in the fuse box under the hood. The ATO fuses that are used in the 944 have test points on either side of the number displaying the amperage of the fuse. Test all the fuses for the headlights there, if any of them don't have conductivity (ie. make the multimeter beep) then you have a bad fuse. Although, if I remember correctly, there are 4 independent fuses for the headlights (high/low - left/right) and it would be very odd for them all to go simultaneously.
After testing across the fuses, pull one of the sockets off the back of the bulb (left side is probably better because it's closer to the fuse box) and test for conductivity between the appropriate fuse and the terminal of the socket. Once you've tested the high and low beam fuse to socket conductivity, raise your headlights and look behind the left headlight bucket. On the side of the frame rail you will see several brown wires with ring terminals that are bolted down. This is the common ground for the headlights. Test for conductivity between the ground terminal of the headlight socket and that grounding point. Also test for conductivity between that grounding point and another grounding point (like the engine).
if you look at the end of the socket that plugs into the bulb, the middle/top terminal is the low beam, the left is the high and the right is the ground. (I might have that last bit backwards, but the ground wire is brown, so check to make sure I'm right).
Also test between the socket that plugs into the back of the switch and the fuses in the fuse box.
The more likely culprit is the headlight switch itself. I can't guarantee this on the early cars, but I know on the later cars, the headlight switch is, effectively, the relay. And it's common for it to go bad. If you pull it out, you can test for conductivity across the terminals on it while rotating it trough the various positions.
A a general rule when troubleshooting electrical systems, test half of the system. This eliminates half of the components in the system. Once you've narrowed it down to half, test half of that system. Now you're down to 1/4 of the system. Half it again, now you're down to 1/8... repeat until you arrive at one component.
Once all is said and done, and you've fixed your head lights, buy (or build) a new headlight harness. Rennbay and other places sell them, or you can build one for about $50-$60. Your headlights will be brighter, and you'll take the load off of the (originally mediocre and now old) stock headlight system.
After testing across the fuses, pull one of the sockets off the back of the bulb (left side is probably better because it's closer to the fuse box) and test for conductivity between the appropriate fuse and the terminal of the socket. Once you've tested the high and low beam fuse to socket conductivity, raise your headlights and look behind the left headlight bucket. On the side of the frame rail you will see several brown wires with ring terminals that are bolted down. This is the common ground for the headlights. Test for conductivity between the ground terminal of the headlight socket and that grounding point. Also test for conductivity between that grounding point and another grounding point (like the engine).
if you look at the end of the socket that plugs into the bulb, the middle/top terminal is the low beam, the left is the high and the right is the ground. (I might have that last bit backwards, but the ground wire is brown, so check to make sure I'm right).
Also test between the socket that plugs into the back of the switch and the fuses in the fuse box.
The more likely culprit is the headlight switch itself. I can't guarantee this on the early cars, but I know on the later cars, the headlight switch is, effectively, the relay. And it's common for it to go bad. If you pull it out, you can test for conductivity across the terminals on it while rotating it trough the various positions.
A a general rule when troubleshooting electrical systems, test half of the system. This eliminates half of the components in the system. Once you've narrowed it down to half, test half of that system. Now you're down to 1/4 of the system. Half it again, now you're down to 1/8... repeat until you arrive at one component.
Once all is said and done, and you've fixed your head lights, buy (or build) a new headlight harness. Rennbay and other places sell them, or you can build one for about $50-$60. Your headlights will be brighter, and you'll take the load off of the (originally mediocre and now old) stock headlight system.
05-03-2011, 06:34 PM
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The more likely culprit is the headlight switch itself. I can't guarantee this on the early cars, but I know on the later cars, the headlight switch is, effectively, the relay. And it's common for it to go bad. If you pull it out, you can test for conductivity across the terminals on it while rotating it trough the various positions.
Happened to my 83 after 12 years of use and 90 something K miles.
05-03-2011, 06:51 PM
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The switch in the early car is pretty easy to fix, just open it and clean all the coroded points and put it back together. But the headlight harness i got from rennbay have some poor releys, they are not water tight. And mine blew cause of it. Anyone know how I can make them water tight ?
05-04-2011, 02:41 AM
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Would be nice if you could send me new relays 
