Mamooguy

Am I correct in assuming that the engine has to be removed in order to replace the seals? Or can I gain access while it's still in the car?

Vjgtrybno1

I believe we were going to do Tenacious_G's front seals without dropping the engine. Turned out to be a power steering leak that was the culprit though.

KuHL 951

There's front seals, rear seal, BS seals, OAS, oil cooler, cam seals, etc. Taking your question as a generic statement, yes it is much easier to reseal with the engine out. It can be done without pulling the motor but it's so much easier to do a good job while mounted on a stand. You said you have a major gusher in your rear main seal, since you already will have the trans out, it's easy to do with the engine in the car.

Mamooguy

I don't think the removal of the trans will make a difference in that regard, since the AT is located in the rear (and actually after listening closely I'm thinking the power problem might be the torque converter or somewhere in that neighbourhood, even though I could've sworn the noise was coming from the engine compartment).

Frankly I'd like to avoid removing the whole engine if I can, since my situation isn't at all convenient for doing so (car parked in underground lot, apartment on 19th floor). However the more I think about it the more I'd love to replace every seal I can get my hands on. Well, I'll look at the trans first and worry about the engine later.

M758

You can replaced every seal in the engine with it still in the car. However if you plan to replace them all at one time it is much easier with engine out. The only thing you can't do with the engine in the car is change main bearings on the crank. You can do it, but placing a 50lbs crank just right above your head is not a job I would ever want to do. You can even replace pistons with the block in the car still.

KuHL 951

You really need to read a service manual. If your rear main seal is the only thing leaking or if your torque converter is shot you have to pull the trans and slide the torque back anyway unless you pull the motor. I'm not trying to be caustic or anything but you are about to tackle some serious work and have previously posted about dropping your engine just for the 'fun of it'; read my lips, it's not fun by any stretch of the imagination...diagnose what the problem is first and then decide what to do next. You need to be more specific when you say 'I want to replace the seals'; there are a 100+ freaking seals. If you are going to reseal the entire engine it's 10 times easier with the engine out and you will do a better job in the process. Doing the rear main only is easy with engine in the car.

Sorry for the rant

SamGrant951

I just did the RMS on a stand and I thought it was a bitch...

Mamooguy

No no, I appreciate it. And I agree, really. Only trouble is, I'm used to fixing things by taking them apart and seeing what the trouble is. It's just the way I've always worked. I'm used to it.

But you're right, dropping the engine is no small matter, and with each passing day I have less and less enthusiasm for doing it.

In terms of the rear seals, I'm only guessing it's the main because of the volume of flow; but I haven't actually seen the leak. I was just thinking it made sense to replace as many as I could, since I'm quite sure they're all 20 years old.

I'm very happy to hear, though, that I can access so much of the engine while it's still in the bay. I guess my perception is a holdover from when I owned a Mazda, when you couldn't access dick.

So, to sum up ... plans to drop engine: on hold; plans to focus on the torque converter: a go; plans to find the source of the oil leak(s?): go.