fork_included

spring rate and comfort have alot to do with shock travel too

a 50lb spring rate car slammed on to the bumpstops will feel like ****

i'm currently running a 500lb spring at the front on my daily driver, but with 2.5" of shock travel before i even get to to the comrpesable bumpstops, the car is pretty damn comfortable.

HIGHBOOST

That's def. a good point what shocks are you using Fork?

fork_included

on my VW i'm using a set of Koni yellows, i'm deffinetly pushing the re-bound limit of an off the shelf koni but i plan on replacing them soon anyway, plus i have a choice of either a 250 or a 500 spring... since i ran a 250/250, 250/500, 150/250, then 150/500! i decided to give the 500 a try at the fronts, seems to work, my times havent really improved or worsened



the porsche currently lacks a suspension all together...

tk's944

Clark's Garage has a great write up on supension upgrades

GTSilver944

Thanks for the info. So how well do the 220s perform? I'm not sure I want to go to a rate where I have to change the bars, but whatever it wouldn't cost that much more. Ultimately it might be up to my mechanic (who had an '84 944 track car before) because I'm feeling rather lazy after the whole painting project, which should be done within a week.

GodSpeed

I like my 250 lbs springs and bilstein HDs alot. You will want to get larger rear torsion bars though.

J Silverman

The rear is much more expensive to upgrade. I got lucky and got a set of new 30mm hollow torsion bars for $250 which i the price for solid bars. Out of curiosity Ive called around and most shops want 7-10 hours of labor to replace the torsion bars. Then you need to consider replacing rear bushings while you are in there which will add a couple of hours of labor. Then you have the alignment which is 2 hours easily if its a 4 wheel alignment. This is why Ive decided to attempt to DIY. Then while Ive got the car off the ground Im going to swap a manual steering rack inand repalce the front suspension too. SHould be an interesting summer!

tk's944

How much weight does the hollow tubes save?

J Silverman

I think I read 5 or 6 lbs. Nothing huge, but that is unsprung weight so the lighter the better. I was going to get the solid bars until my friend found a set of bars in the back of his warehouse. They have since been discontinues by sway away so he gave me a deal.

Scootin159

I just did this job, and let me warn you...it's not very fun. It wouldn't have been so bad, if it weren't for 3 broken bolts (each one taking anywhere from one evening to almost a full weekend to 'fix').

A few tips:
- Do the bushings! They're easy (maybe 1hr total), and are a nice distraction midway through. Plus...you won't want to do this job twice.
- Use the "spreadsheet" method for indexing the bars. Got mine spot-on in the first attempt.
- Use lots & lots of fire to remove the torsion bar bushings. It's fun & easy. Done right, they should just slip off without much effort.
- Get help! Not so much for technical advice (it's actually a fundamentally simple job), but for muscle. The rear end is heavy, and hard to put in by yourself.

M758

If you have questions about the spreadsheet contact me. I developed it when I did my t-bars 5-6 years ago.

Scootin159

It's not even all unsprung. Think about how much of the torsion bar moves with the suspension....basically just the end connected to the trailing arm and roughly it's half of the bar...and it only twists...a few degrees. So yes, there is a portion of unsprung weight there....but very, very, little.

tk's944

so is it worth the $100 for the hollow tubes

Scootin159

Is it worth $100 to you to save 5-10lbs in weight in your car? I got solids, but if you're going for a crazy no-holds-barred racing machine, then it might be worth it.

J Silverman

Im fully prepared for this I think. I have a DE this weekend and then nothing to do until the end of august. With everything Id like to do this should give me enough time at least. I have some help lined up. A friend of mine (for some reason) like working on these cars. Im planning on doing as much of the bushings as I can. I dont have a press so I may just have to remove the parts and have a shop do that part, but Im looking forward to playing with the torch. The front control arms should be pretty straight forward (famous last words) so the back is going to be the hardest I think.