SoCal Driver

With the ignition switch on check for voltage at the coil and at one of the injectors. If there is NO voltage at the coil then the ignition switch is suspect. If there IS voltage at the coil but not at the injectors then the DME relay is suspect.

If there is voltage at both the coil and the injectors check that the fuel pump is running during cranking. If the fuel pump runs for a half second or so after you stop cranking then look for other causes for no start such as the reference and speed sensors or fuel over pressure or clogged fuel filter or broken injector harness wires or even a loose transistor in the DME.

potent951turbo

Well at the moment I am getting some firing/sputtering while cranking but no start. I am definately getting spark as well. I also opened the DME and did not see any signs of cracked joints in the solder. As I mentioned earlier I am also getting voltage to the injectors.

97xray

I'm curious if your problem was resolved, and if so, how. I've had a similar problem, so I'm particularly interested in possible solutions (link to me long post: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337441).

Just today the motor started by removing the airbox cover and propping the AFM door until it caught.

Here's a question for you, SoCal:
Earlier, I pulled the rail and set it on a nice clean piece of paper. I cranked 5 to 10 seconds. I see nice, quarter-sized, rings of fuel. Is that enough to know the pressure is OK (damper and regulator are BRAND NEW!).

Although I got the motor running (today), I'm foggy on why messing with the AFM did the trick.

[edit: I just learned that Hugh (SoCal) has passed away. We're a lesser community without him...]