apierce918

Ok, i havent actually taken it out on the road yet, but the driveway test was like night and day so it made is making me wonder..

here's the deal, when i got my car back together, it would start and idle right around 900rpm. peachy.

After it was given throttle, and let off. The tach would drop pretty quickly to 400 or so, cough, choke, sometimes come back to life, sometimes stall. wasnt sure if it was AFM, DME something or another, or chip.. hmm

well, i was gonna swap a buddy's parts and see what the deal was but he isnt here. So i put the stock chip back in the computer and fired it up, fired instantly almost. now i rev it up and let off, it drops a little slower, but it doesnt dip below 900, and there may only be a slight hiccup at the bottom, but it wasnt stalling, i brought it up to temp and from 4000rpm right off it would drop fairly quick to 1500 or so, then ease down to idle, which is now maybe 950-1000.

Is something else still awry as to why the performance chip isnt running as nicely as the stock chip? I have only heard good things about a wilk chip, so i can only assume, but what gives?

I'm gonna plug her back together and see if driving is easier without having to keep it alive at every stop by holding the rev's

Might have a Wilk chip for sale in the near future

TheMAXX

I know nothing about this chip whatsoever. But I do know a lot about electronics. I assume this chip can just be unplugged you didn’t have to solder anything. Any time you disturb something, like the action of removing one chip and installing another, you don’t know what else you may have jiggled a little. I would try now plugging in the Wilk chip back in and see if it goes back to the same problem. You may have a bad solder joint somewhere in you DME and at the moment it is making a better connection. One trick would be to take a nonconductive item and with the car idling gently tap on the DME in a number of places and see if the idle drops again. Assuming this can be done safely.

apierce918

could be, i was looking it over trying to find a solder joint that was cracked or something, but its not like i couldn't have missed one

Andy1212

Do the late Wilk chips have the shudder fix?

apierce918

i thought only early cars suffered from the "shudder"

Dan Shea

I would suggest putting the chip back in and seeing if the shutter comes back. It could be as simple as the car needed to run a little to clean it out, if it has been sitting for a while.

Techno Duck

You are correct, only the pre '85 cars had the problem. As described by FRWilk, it was to meet the US emissions, fuel was cut at something like 1300rpm when returning to idle. The problem was as the cars got older the shudder (caused by idle drop) became really bad. Wilk's shudder fix chip cut the fuel at a higher rpm i think which basically stopped it.

Ive got no idea why your car would be running so poorly with the FRWilk chip. May want to make sure the FQS is set to the right spot. Also make sure the jumper is installed for the altitude sensor connector. If its not connected, you are basically running off the old stock fuel map. With the jumper installed, you are running his modified fuel map. As FRWilk has said in the past, his chip uses tweaked euro fuel maps which ignore the oxygen sensor signal.

Mamooguy

I say put the performance chip back in and take 'er out on the road. Get a feel for the performance.

Apex944

What's this altitude sensor jumper?
I know where the altitude sensor is, but i didnt know you could jump it.
I think that may fix my car's weird issue's
I also know that if it goes bad the car acts weird but have never heard of this jumper for it before.

I just jump the connector wires from one side to the other, correct?

And back on topic..... I say you put it back in and see if it's fine. Ive never heard of this before either. Try emailing him after you put it in and its still the same as before. Yes he is still around, I just talked to him about 2 weeks ago via email's.

UncleMaz

How old is your gas?

Zporsche944

my 86 shutters it shakes the hole car cuz the idle falls to around 800 then it goes back up to 950

Apex944

Zporsche, maybe the PO switched your computer and AFM with an early car's.
Never know what those crazy PO's do to cars.

apierce918

gas isnt very old, PO used the car as a daily, and i bought it in january when i filled it up from almost empty with 89 octane

apierce918

problem isnt completely gone, but its not as severe, and i havent had it die yet, but it has had some close calls, i think the problem lies elsewhere, and having a chip that ignores o2 sensor and things made it more pronounced. Might need to borrow an AFM from someone to troubleshoot

Mongo

I'm willing to bet the chip's programmed ignition timing had something to do with your poor running. I have seen an FR Wilk chip plugged into a computer that read the settings it had. The sucker had 28 DEGREES IGNITION ADVANCE. That would detonate the 944 engine!