i know oils have been covered a lot but i need to choose between these two
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
i know oils have been covered a lot but i need to choose between these two
http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV22...3824429&sr=8-9
or
http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV21...824591&sr=8-43
thanks and its a turbo and will be driven in temps. higher than 50.
or
http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV21...824591&sr=8-43
thanks and its a turbo and will be driven in temps. higher than 50.
#2
Not Special
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I doubt the turbo needs racing oil...
Check this thread out at Pelican for lots of good info on oil...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=335265
Check this thread out at Pelican for lots of good info on oil...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=335265
#3
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
i spoke to my cuz that works as an engineer for the general. I asked him about the new standards.
He suggested i fire off an email to mobil and specifically ask them if i should put the new mobil1 in my 89 porsche. He doesnt think the zddp "crisis" is a crisis becasue they use catalytic converters in europe too.
He suggested i fire off an email to mobil and specifically ask them if i should put the new mobil1 in my 89 porsche. He doesnt think the zddp "crisis" is a crisis becasue they use catalytic converters in europe too.
#4
Addict
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I use Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40, it's still SL certified and is a heavy duty oil that still has lots of ZDDP. It's a group III oil but still very good. I like the high pressure additives for cars that get some loads on the thrust bearings (5 speed in stop and go traffic.) I am wary of the new spec but not going to panic just yet.
I used to use Mobil 1 in my turbo cars due to what I felt was increased thermal protection, perhaps even better than group III 'sorta synth' oils, I had a Passat 1.8T which was known for coking up the oil and leaving 'turbo turds' in the sump and sludging badly. I felt that was mainly a human factor problem, dumb dealers sold cheap dino oil changes to dumb customers who ran the cars hard and shut them down hot. The 1.8T's little K03 would glow red when worked hard and really needed good oil and proper cool down.
At this point until I get some up to date information I am not buying more Mobil 1... well if I do I might add some STP to it, which I believe is just a thick oil with a bunch of high pressure additives in it. My main concern is that M1 might be a Group III now too so why pay more for it, and get this new SM spec I might not want?
-Joel.
I used to use Mobil 1 in my turbo cars due to what I felt was increased thermal protection, perhaps even better than group III 'sorta synth' oils, I had a Passat 1.8T which was known for coking up the oil and leaving 'turbo turds' in the sump and sludging badly. I felt that was mainly a human factor problem, dumb dealers sold cheap dino oil changes to dumb customers who ran the cars hard and shut them down hot. The 1.8T's little K03 would glow red when worked hard and really needed good oil and proper cool down.
At this point until I get some up to date information I am not buying more Mobil 1... well if I do I might add some STP to it, which I believe is just a thick oil with a bunch of high pressure additives in it. My main concern is that M1 might be a Group III now too so why pay more for it, and get this new SM spec I might not want?
-Joel.
#5
Race Director
20w-50
I would not use anything less than 50wt in Turbo for on track applications.
Synthetic vs Dino and brand is widely debated. I have been using Valvoline VR1 20w50 in my 130k never opened Turbo S. I used this for street & track. Car has some oil leaks that I don't want to make worse with synthetic. If I reseal it I would go with a synthetic.
In my 944 race car I used AMSOIL 20w50 Series 2000 racing oil. Stuff is expensive, but given than every shift is at 6000 rpm full throttle I prefer to spend the money to get the best oil I think I can get.
I would not use anything less than 50wt in Turbo for on track applications.
Synthetic vs Dino and brand is widely debated. I have been using Valvoline VR1 20w50 in my 130k never opened Turbo S. I used this for street & track. Car has some oil leaks that I don't want to make worse with synthetic. If I reseal it I would go with a synthetic.
In my 944 race car I used AMSOIL 20w50 Series 2000 racing oil. Stuff is expensive, but given than every shift is at 6000 rpm full throttle I prefer to spend the money to get the best oil I think I can get.
#7
Done With Sidepatch
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Here is a Pelican thread with plenty if discussion
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...0&pagenumber=1
and an informative page authored by one of the posters...an engineer...a good read.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...0&pagenumber=1
and an informative page authored by one of the posters...an engineer...a good read.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html