Exhaust systmes?
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Iv been looking at different exhaust systems nicest iv found was Lindsey racing but it says MSDS headers raw or thermal coated finish now by raw what do they mean? I also went to the MSDS site and they say they can come "CERAMIC COATED, NICKEL-CHROME PLATED" dose the nickel-chrome plated stand up to the temps or dose it discolor. Also on the MSDS site they have some crazy clams here read this “Dyno tests have shown a minimum 14% horsepower gain time after time” I am pretty sure this isn’t going to happen but I still wont some nice sounding and looking exhaust. Any info is helpful.
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First of all, do not be afraid to use the [,] [.] or [enter] buttons, it will make your post easier to read.
When they say "raw finish" it means uncoated, raw steel. It will rust pretty easily from salt, water, etc.
As far as HP claims, do a search and you will find that the MSDS do not gain that much horsepower, maybe 8-10.
With MSDS headers and a free flowing exhaust you will lose backpressure and torque down low.
The HP you gain will be towards the end of the curve, not worth it IMHO.
If you want a great sounding exhaust, get a catback, 2.5" from either Speed Force Racing or B&B.
I think the Lindsey 3" is too big.
Now if you get more agressive cams, then you might benefit more from the headers and larger exhaust.
When they say "raw finish" it means uncoated, raw steel. It will rust pretty easily from salt, water, etc.
As far as HP claims, do a search and you will find that the MSDS do not gain that much horsepower, maybe 8-10.
With MSDS headers and a free flowing exhaust you will lose backpressure and torque down low.
The HP you gain will be towards the end of the curve, not worth it IMHO.
If you want a great sounding exhaust, get a catback, 2.5" from either Speed Force Racing or B&B.
I think the Lindsey 3" is too big.
Now if you get more agressive cams, then you might benefit more from the headers and larger exhaust.
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The reason why im looking at the Lindsey racing one is it’s a full exhaust with the MSDS headers. I need the full exhaust because someone permanently attached the o2 sensor in the y pipe and the rest of the exhaust is very extremely rusted.
I am sorry about my previous grammar.
I am sorry about my previous grammar.
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Well, I'm not saying don't buy the Lindsey, its a great exhaust for the price, just letting you know that you will lose some of the torque down low.
A rennlister who goes by Porschephile 924 has MSDS headers and a custom 3" exhaust all the way back, which is similar to a lindsey, and it does sound AWESOME.
Just don't believe the HP claims from the MSDS headers
As far as coatings, I don't know too much about Nickel plating/whatever.
Lindsey only provides the MSDS headers in raw form or thermal coating, you could buy the exhaust from lindsey and the headers from MSDS seperately.
Just make sure specify the lindsey exhaust set up for MSDS connection when you order.
Overall the Lindsey system is a great exhaust for a great price.
The catback's alone from SFR or B&B run around $900, but they are stainless steel.
You could also just buy a stock exhaust from Partsheaven, or DCAuto, etc.
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Aluminezed coating is a coating of aluminum over the steel pipe, similar to the kind of exhaust pipe you can buy at Pep Boys, NAPA, etc.
It is comparable to what a stock exhaust is on lots of cars.
The problem with aluminized coating is that it can wear off with scratches, which exposed the steel underneath, and pretty soon, rust.
An aluminized exhaust should last for a good number of years, so long as you dont drag it all over town.
If buy the aluminized version, you can buy some exhaust paint from a Auto store and give it a few coats before installing for some more protection...
It is comparable to what a stock exhaust is on lots of cars.
The problem with aluminized coating is that it can wear off with scratches, which exposed the steel underneath, and pretty soon, rust.
An aluminized exhaust should last for a good number of years, so long as you dont drag it all over town.
If buy the aluminized version, you can buy some exhaust paint from a Auto store and give it a few coats before installing for some more protection...
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Thanks for the advice. I will probably end up buying the chrome MSDS headers and the Lindsey 3 inch back, and paint the 3 inch back with some high temp paint.
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Ceramic coated is your absolute best bet. Chrome plating will discolor and turn blue to brown at the primaries. Also chrome plating can start flaking off if the exhaust temps get too high and the metal was not prepared propperly. This is VERY unlikely to happen on a normally aspirated car, but very likely on a forced induction car. Aluminizing is a corrosion protection, and I don't like it because the tubing is bought already aluminized, and then welded. The welds aren't protected and they rust. Plus there is no thermal protection with either chrome plating or aluminizing.
Now comes ceramic coatings. the majority of ceramic coatings you see have a high concentration of aluminum in them with a ceramic base. these are the headers that look like pollished aluminum. There are also a ton of other colors available now, and all that can be googled. Ceramic coatings are great because they offer excellent corrosion protection, and increadible thermal protection. They keep all your exhaust heat in the pipe. This does two things, it mainly reduces underhood temps, causing other things to live longer, like rubber components, etc, and reduces overall heat soaking. The other thing it does is causes the exhaust gasses to eveacuate faster because they retain more heat energy. This in theory can give you more power, but I don't think it would be enough to make a difference.
hope this helps.
Now comes ceramic coatings. the majority of ceramic coatings you see have a high concentration of aluminum in them with a ceramic base. these are the headers that look like pollished aluminum. There are also a ton of other colors available now, and all that can be googled. Ceramic coatings are great because they offer excellent corrosion protection, and increadible thermal protection. They keep all your exhaust heat in the pipe. This does two things, it mainly reduces underhood temps, causing other things to live longer, like rubber components, etc, and reduces overall heat soaking. The other thing it does is causes the exhaust gasses to eveacuate faster because they retain more heat energy. This in theory can give you more power, but I don't think it would be enough to make a difference.
hope this helps.
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Experience on 944 spec cars is that MSDS headers that you just "bolt-on" and forget don't gain hp. Expect numbers well below 5 hp gains. There is only one header I have know that actually gains hp. That is a $650 Stahl header. Nice unit, but pricey and even then its biggets gain is area under the curve in the 4500+ rpm range and only a little on the peak.
Now the way to get hp is to spend a number of hours on the dyno with your aftermarket header and tune the crap out of the car. You will make a custom chip for your car and with skilled tuner might see 10 hp.
944 spec rules as fo June 1 no longer allow aftermarket headers not because they may hp when bolted on, but because with a custom tuned chip they can start to make hp.
Now the way to get hp is to spend a number of hours on the dyno with your aftermarket header and tune the crap out of the car. You will make a custom chip for your car and with skilled tuner might see 10 hp.
944 spec rules as fo June 1 no longer allow aftermarket headers not because they may hp when bolted on, but because with a custom tuned chip they can start to make hp.