KLR 9 to DME 21
KLR 16 to DME 32

 

Alright! off I go back to the garage!!

It fired right up and ran like a top with the KLR bypassed, so now I will go and search the correct pins mentioned by Brian (which bears out in my pin diagrams) and see what is what!

The harness in the footwell has plenty of Ghetto repairs/add ons it appears so this is really no surprise.

Hope to have it running within the hour with out the KLR bypassed!

Thanks again guys!

Cheers

 

Okay, I have continuity between KLR 9 and DME 21 and between KLR 16 and DME 32. No spark with KLR plugged in....... Starts fine with KLR bypassed......

WTF?

 

bad klr? i've heard if the coil goes bad it will fry the klr.

 

Since swapping the klr box didn't fix the problem but bypassing it did, it might be a good idea to also check the wires going to the knock sensor, the knock sensor, and the wires going to the cv for shorts.

 

Thanks Rob, replied to your PM as well....


I did rewire the knock sensor in this whole fiasco as well. I will double check it. I do have the correct resistance at the pins on KLR harness, but who knows, I will double check it.

How will the car run if I try to drive it with the KLR bypassed??

Cheers

 

As long as you don't go into boost, the KLR doesn't need to change timing so it will be fine. Did you look at the connector pins at the DME and the KLR. Were did you bypass the KLR, at the DME or at the KLR? Might also want to check out the KLR again to make sure it is a good unit.

 

Brian, I am picking up another known good KLR tomorrow to test (again)

I jumped the KLR by unplugging and setting it aside and then jumping pins 9 and 16 on the KLR harness plug.

I have openned up my KLR and it "looks" okay and I replaced the chip in it with a known good spare that I had here.

I am thinking I will re wire the pins from the DME to the KLR. I have plenty of pins here so I may as well give that a shot!

In the mean time I will fire it up (jumpered) and take care of the other maintenance I need to do like back flush the cooling system and then re-fill and bleed it.

You guys have been a great help.

Time to go take my frustrations out on my drum kit!



Cheers

 

Don't rewire without a reason, you are just asking for other problem. Solve the problem, not the symptoms.

 

Problem found. The shielded wire comming out of Pin 9 on the KLR is grounding with the sheild itself. I found it by discovering continuity between pins 9 and 10 on the KLR harness. I pulled pin 10 out of the harness and plugged the KLR box in and the car starts!

So I am going to re wire the one pole shielded wire between pin 9/10 KLR and the DME.

Also found a pronlem in the pins for the knock sensor wiring which I will also fix.

I won't actually get to it until later today or tomorrow and won't be able to road test until probably wednesday night.


thanks for the help.

 

 

Glad you were able to fix it!

 

now about them discounts...

j/k man, glad it's fixed !